Wing Root Fuel Vent hardware after 200 Hrs Pilot Side

[Jesse23]

Has anyone ever replaced this bulkhead hardware after the fact? Or, drilled the rivets out and tried again? The Pic shows seepage, before it gets worse after more than 25 Gals in the tank, then starts its path down and out the lower wing root cover. Cleaning and adding Proseal inside/under the root fairing did not cut it. The second pic was an attempt to proseal the only side I can get to inside the wing root. Vent tube removed. (still seeps with more than 25 gals) . It appears I have to get into the tank to fix and or replace. The Fuel Arm sealed up nicely, but even If I removed it to get to the vent, that hole is way too small for anyone's hands in the RV 10.

Regards,
Bill

[Machsandy]

Hello Bill

There is a known problem where the vent line on the inside of the tank has a loose nut where it mounts on the inboard fitting. Could that be the problem you have?

We had this problem and was able to solve it through the fuel sender hole. There are a few suggestions on other threads as to making a bespoke tool to do the job.

[9GT]

Are these quick build wings? When I dissected my RV-9A quick build fuel tanks, I found that there was hardly any sealant on and around that bulkhead fitting.

[Jesse23]

Originally Posted by 9GT

Are these quick build wings? When I dissected my RV-9A quick build fuel tanks, I found that there was hardly any sealant on and around that bulkhead fitting.

Slow build. Didn’t show up till 200 Hrs. May try to drill out rivets holding the anti rotation plate inside rib, then Pro Seal 2 Cherry Max SPR (self plug rivets) 3/32 rivets, and try to get sone Pro Seal behind the bulkhead nut. May need a long rod or cleco to keep the plate inside the tank from dropping off the hole location onto the vent line. Just not an easy area to work in.

[kearney]

Bill.

Get some pro seal type A. It flows quite easily where as b sealant will not. Get a syringe and graft a piece of -4 versa tube to the end. You can bend the tube into a hook and then go in through the fuel sender hole.

If the tank is out you can stand it in the end till it sets.

I did this to seal the seam below sender hole. Worked like a charm.

[kearney]

Bill

The pix below illustrates what I was referencing. You may need to bend the tubing more. I used a sem gun but a large bore syringe could be made to work.

I wouldn’t start drilling rivets as I have found leaks often are not where you think.

[Jesse23]

I deleted the pic, but I have verified the rivets are weeping. Thanks for the tips, but since I just resealed the tank float, I am hesitant to rip that out. That hole is really small to work thru, but if need be, that is what I will do.

[Jesse23]

Originally Posted by kearney

Bill.

Get some pro seal type A. It flows quite easily where as b sealant will not. Get a syringe and graft a piece of -4 versa tube to the end. You can bend the tube into a hook and then go in through the fuel sender hole.

If the tank is out you can stand it in the end till it sets.

I did this to seal the seam below sender hole. Worked like a charm.

Found the pic of the 1st discovery at the rivet.

[Bavafa]

Originally Posted by Jesse23

Found the pic of the 1st discovery at the rivet.

Maybe do one rivet at the time and see how that goes. Perhaps it is only that one rivet that is the problem child.

[fixnflyguy]

Over the last couple years, I have been "talked into" repairing about a dozen leaky RV tanks.. I don't do it for a living or for fun, but I spend a lot of time around Proseal and leaking KC-10 tanks. Finding the actual leak can be undaunting, and wide area resealing is often the only answer. Most recently, I di an RV-10 tank which had constant drip from the vent line. As mentioned ,access through the sender hole with tank installed is a PITA. The owner removed the tank and brought it o me (he was still paintless and in phase 1). He tried the re-torque of the B nut with a funky tool through sender hole and no success. I made an access hole on the I/B bay and disconnected the line, finding a kindergarten level flare that wasn't sealing. The bulkhead fitting was sealed very well and wasn't leaking as in your case, however, I am an advocate of topcoat sealing any fitting inside the tank, and outside the tank. After I installed the line with a flareseal, the fitting received full topcoating of PR1422A1/2 , which is a thinner brushable high flow Proseal. Even when I do 1422"B" sealant, I topcoat with "A". In your case, you may get a successful exterior fix by thorough cleaning, SS wire brush abrading and topcoating of the entire area including the B-nut and furrel .Remove as much old sealant as possible first. While its not optimum (going inside is), it may seal forever. I use Coleman camp fuel as final wipe for all my sealant work (except on KC-10's as the manual requires MEK or Acetone.