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  #11  
Old 05-12-2015, 11:07 AM
Jim Ellis's Avatar
Jim Ellis Jim Ellis is offline
 
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Location: Flower Mound, Texas
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I had good success making metal fairings by following the method described in the 21 Years of the RV-ator, "Aluminum Windscreen Fairing". No English wheel needed (even though I have one in the shop).

The only trick is measuring exactly the angle between the upper deck and the windscreen every two inches and bending the lower fairing flange to exactly those same angles.









The lower fairing is made from 2 pieces of 12" x 36" .025" 2024-T3 alclad. The upper fairing is made from one piece of 12" x 72" .032" 2024-T3 alclad.

Both fairings are bonded to the windscreen with Sikaflex-295i UV adhesive.
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RV-7A, N23VC, Slider, Garmin G3X Touch Panel,
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RV-9A, N155T, Sold

Last edited by Jim Ellis : 02-18-2019 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Repaired broken photo links.
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2015, 11:43 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Ellis View Post
I had good success making metal fairings by following exactly the method described in the "21 Years of the RV-ator", no English wheel needed (even though I have one in the shop).

The only trick is measuring exactly the angle between the upper deck and the windscreen every two inches and bending the lower fairing flange to exactly those same angles.





The lower fairing is made from 2 pieces of 12" x 36" .025" 2024-T3 alclad. The upper fairing is made from one piece of 12" x 72" .032" 2024-T3 alclad.

Both fairings are bonded to the windscreen with Sikaflex-295i UV adhesive.
Very nicely done. I riveted and screwed mine and then used Sika as a sealant only. It was in the early days before folks where doing the Sika thing.
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  #13  
Old 05-12-2015, 05:01 PM
BABALU BABALU is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Carlsbad California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Ellis View Post
I had good success making metal fairings by following the method described in the "21 Years of the RV-ator", no English wheel needed (even though I have one in the shop).

The only trick is measuring exactly the angle between the upper deck and the windscreen every two inches and bending the lower fairing flange to exactly those same angles.





The lower fairing is made from 2 pieces of 12" x 36" .025" 2024-T3 alclad. The upper fairing is made from one piece of 12" x 72" .032" 2024-T3 alclad.

Both fairings are bonded to the windscreen with Sikaflex-295i UV adhesive.
That looks great! I'm in the process of repairing mine with carbon fiber but if I could start from scratch there is no doubt I would try to find somebody that had the ability to do as you did with the aluminum . The weakest point with fiberglass is at the top where the canopy closes to the windscreen plus people including myself sometimes either grab the top edge or hit it with there feet while exiting then it breaks off.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2015, 05:46 PM
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BillL BillL is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwtalbot View Post
They claimed that when I used it too. I may have had a bad batch. However, these days I only use West Systems and make my own.
It is a polyester filler, and they all shrink - just some faster than others. Better to use micro with epoxy. It just does not set up as fast as the poly esters.

I am considering aluminum too, it is in the 6/97 RVAtor. You should buy the CD version all 27 yrs - searchable too!
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2015, 06:04 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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"Old school" metal fairing. Although not necessary, as shown in Jim's fine work above, the "Wheel" allows you to put a small arc in the bow to slightly better match the windscreen/canopy intersection and add rigidity. It also allows you to ruin some metal as you get to learn a new skill! (Especially with 2024T3)
.032 with .040 bow, sealed with a layer of Sika under.
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2015, 06:46 PM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
 
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I did a bit of a hybrid. I used aluminum over the top of the roll bar, which extends back over the slider portion of plexiglass. However, I used glass and epoxy for the fairing between the top fuse skin and the base of the windscreen.

What I did differently from typical was to lay it up on the fuse, but remove it for finishing. I put it back on for good when it was essentially ready to paint. I used a few pop rivets, and a layer of epoxy to seal it to the fuse and windscreen. I do not have a decent picture of it to post, but I'd do the same thing again. Sure makes getting it finished easier, and the seams between it and the fuse and windscreen are good places for expansion when necessary.
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2015, 06:56 PM
RV-4 RV-4 is offline
 
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Location: St-Jerome,Quebec,Canada
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Question Winshield Fairing

Hello Gents

Anyone with an RV-4 has pictures of their front fairing (On how they finished the front of their canopy )??

I will have to redo mine on my incoming canopy replacement and I'm looking for ideas..

On my previous and present canopy, I re-used the old fiberglass fairing and reglassed it in place but this time around I will be redoing the complete canopy and will be using the old one in the meantime..

Thanks in advance

Bruno
rv4@videotron.ca
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  #18  
Old 05-12-2015, 07:23 PM
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Sheldon Sheldon is offline
 
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I did mine in metal also. I followed the RVaitor artical, but not quite in such a detailed method.. It really turned out pretty easy to do, and the first pieces I made, ended up as the finished ones..

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I modified my flange forming tool by stacking the wheels to allow a larger flange formed.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
The form out of a 2 X 4
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Sheldon RV6A
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  #19  
Old 05-12-2015, 08:46 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drone_pilot View Post
Looks nice, Crabandy! Did you use an English Wheel to do any forming?
Nope, simple tools I had/made/slightly modified. I would love to get an English Wheel and play around....

I think page 12 of my build log shows most of it:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...=94648&page=12

Good Luck!

(I saw all the excellent craftsmanship after I posted this, nice work in everyone's pics!)
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Last edited by crabandy : 05-12-2015 at 08:52 PM.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2015, 03:57 PM
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I used the 21 years of the RVator method too. I like the results and it only took 2 work sessions on one weekend.

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