What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Accidental Tappet Socket Swap

avrojockey

Well Known Member
Patron
Removed #1 jug to address small oil seep around cylinder base. Good news I think I found the culprit and a new packing is ordered up.

However, when I was pulling the cylinder I was concentrating on pin removal to keep the piston in the cylinder and the lifter/pushrod sockets (#15B21319) fell out at the same time. I didn't notice which one was where.

Ideally I would think it's important to keep them matched to the pushrod for wear, but is it? I'm I being overly pedantic?
 
Lifter socket

It's probably fine considering the range that the hydraulic lifter can accommodate, however to be sure and safe (which is what we do in this world) the dry tappet clearence needs to be checked. Not hard to do and you have it apart already. If you find the clearance is wrong you can swap the sockets and measure it again. I like to check this before I install the pushrod tubes, but can be done after.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
Just measure the length to be sure they are the same. If not, then pay attention to the dry lash (depleted lifter).
 
Just measure the length to be sure they are the same. If not, then pay attention to the dry lash (depleted lifter).

Thanks lads...I'll mic them and see if there's a difference in wear, and then proceed if needed.
 
I used a dial indicator on them to have something a round to get inside each end...looks like there pretty much the same maybe .0005 difference at most.

Also, on further inspection, there's a little more varnish on one indicating it's been hotter...so my though is, this is the exhaust side.
 
I used a dial indicator on them to have something a round to get inside each end...looks like there pretty much the same maybe .0005 difference at most.

Also, on further inspection, there's a little more varnish on one indicating it's been hotter...so my though is, this is the exhaust side.

Exhaust heat doesn't make it past the rockers. Pushrod temps at the lifter should be same -In Ex.
 
Just measure the length to be sure they are the same. If not, then pay attention to the dry lash (depleted lifter).

If we're just talking the socket, I'd just clean them and reinstall - as you measured, the manufacturing tolerance between sockets is well within the lifter clearance tolerance.

But if you're going to measure...

I want to highlight Bill's attention to a dry measurement. Just pull the lifter out and pull the flat post out of the lifter body (firmly, but gently), pour out the oil and wipe dry with lint-free cloth. When the lifter body is dry, reassemble and do your clearance measurement with no pre-lube. [0.028" to 0.080" for reference]

It's very tempting to use a magnet to pull the lifters out, but don't! The check ball is very small and is easily magnetized, and can then hang-up in the lifter body. Thin needle nose pliers work well for lifter extraction.

Pre-lube after the measurement to prevent a dry start.
 
Last edited:
The typical exhaust components will be gray from lead staining. There is also an oiling hole in the exhaust rocker so oil drips on the rotator cap.
 
Dry tappet clearance is .28 to .80", NO FUDGE FACTOR!!!!!
clean out the excess oil, put together and check clearance where the cam lobe is 180 off the tappet. Easy!

DAR Gary
 
Both tappet sockets were same dimension, and one had darker varnish coating on it. The exhaust pushrod also had darker varnish coat, so I matched those up.

New cylinder base packing seems to doing the job...Nice and dry now!

Thanks all!
 
Last edited:
Both tappet sockets were same dimension, and one had darker varnish coating on it. The exhaust pushrod also had darker varnish coat, so I matched those up.

New cylinder base packing seems to doing the job...Nice and dry now!

Thanks all!

You are on the way to becoming an engine whisperer. :D
 
I often find the exhaust pushrods more discolored with oxidized oil.

I, of course, yield to your significant experience, but I must say that I am very surprised to find that heat could travel down the pushrod. LOT of air flowing over the pushrod tube. Further reinforces my belief that the Lyc's suffer from anemic oil flow to the heads. With good oil flow, this really isn't possible. My pushrods have all looked identical, but I have only done a few engines.

Larry
 
Back
Top