No Primer build....

[wirejock]

Buy a case of SEM rattle can.
Some parts should be primed. The manual will tell you.
It's a perfectly good etch primer.
The other stuff, it's your plane. At the very least, a wipe with Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol to remove contaminants.

[DeltaRomeo]

Your profile shows Nevada?

NO PRIME - NO WORRIES. <g>. It'll outlast you for sure!

v/r,dr

Originally Posted by YME

After talking with different contributors on this forum, reviewing pros and cons of primed parts, and my local EAA Chapter input, I have decided to the unprimed assembly. As I live in Southern Nevada myself and others foresee no problems.

Now question is, do I wipe down all the parts with a cleaner (acetone, etc) after deburring where and when necessary and removing the blue film protector.

Thanks

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by YME

Could buy an Alodine pen or maybe I am again over thinking.

Probably

Properly executed trimming on any skins should result in the same edge condition as all of the skins have, so if it is justified for that, it should be done on every skin.

If used carefully and waste is minimized, one can of Sem primer (two at the most) would be enough to prime all of the parts specified on an RV-12.

[gasman]

SEM is a good product and easy to use. A fine mist (still able to see the red print) is all you need to prevent surface corrosion.

[wirejock]

Only reason I say buy a case is because that one can always runs out at the worst possible time.
Plus, once you like a primer, you tend to find other uses for it.
Probably cheaper by the case too.

[gmcjetpilot]

Per Van's instruction no primer needed except on extruded and non CLAD Aluminum parts.

Where ever steel attaches (even if steel is primed and painted), I etch, anodyne, prime the aluminum locally at the interface.

You can wipe it down with what ever you want, alcohol might be my choice and less aggressive than Acetone thinner.

[Dvalcik]

Only primed dissimilar metals. The attached photo is this year and show 11 years of time and still looks good.

[jceb]

I bought a bottle of Corrosion X and wiped a very very thin film on mating surfaces and where I deburred / sanded parts. This gives some protection without making a mess. Be careful to not apply too much. If corrosion X weeps out on to the exterior, it will make painting later more difficult.

[Desert Rat]

Back in the day, The big 3 only primed interior parts if you coughed up extra cash when you wrote the deposit check, or if you ordered seaplane provisions.

There are jillions of 50 year old airplanes out there that still look like new inside all the unpainted nooks and crannies.

Having said that, I've seen a few that were absolutely turning to dust due to living their life in a salt air environment.

If I lived in Nevada or Arizona I wouldn't waste a minute considering it.

[Roku]

Clean the parts. Once fully assembled AND painted, spray the non painted area with "CorrosionX". It will protect it and weep into all the nooks and crannies. Every annual wipe the areas with a cloth and reapply "CorrosionX" with a cloth.