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Rudder Spar Pics, Please

md9680

Well Known Member
Friend
Pictures are worth thousands of words.

So, would someone please post pics of the very bottom portion of the completed rudder spar, forward and aft, please? I'm interested in seeing which side manufactured and shop heads ended up on.

Also, I couldn't adjust my pneumatic squeezer to drive those two -9 nut plate rivets. Suggestions? C-Frame with 3x gun? Manual squeezer (Ugh!)?

Thank you.
 
I’ll jump out there as I haven’t shared any of my work with the internet world yet.

This is what I came up with. I did later catch the hole that wasn’t dimpled. It isn’t technically completed as I haven’t finished chapter seven to date.

I got the rivet gun out to set the nutplate rivets.
 

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I put the manufactured heads on the forward side of the spar. The rivets were difficult for me in this region, as you can see by the smilies.

https://flic.kr/p/2jFopJd

Thanks for the pics. Yeah, I figured I'd have to use the rivet gun on those nut plate rivets if I did them like yours -- not something I look forward to due to the "difficulty". If I reverse those two rivets, I might be able to use the pneumatic squeezer. Will check. But your pics along with Tyler's are exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks, again.
 
I was able to set mine with a [URL="https://www.cleavelandtool.com/products/25-flange-nose-pneu-yoke]longeron yoke[/URL], and a NUMATX. Once upon a time, I was working on a different kit with a pneumatic, and IIRC, to set the longer universal rivets required 2 adjustments to the pneumatic squeezer (that may not be the problem you're talking about).

I upgraded to a NUMATX recently, but for the vertical stab spar, I used a hand squeezer (see picture). I fashioned a jig by screwing scrap wood directly into the bench top, such that the spar could be clamped into place. With it clamped in place, you can support the "fixed" arm of the squeezer from the bench top such that the squeezing mechanism of the yoke is at right angles to the rivet you are trying to set. The "lever" arm can then be operated with a lot of body weight, while the rest is relatively stable. Additionally, I found that you need to exert a little pressure on the rivet head so that the it is snug against the work piece. The small-insider-diameter-rubber-tubing-around-the-rivet-shank trick is useful here also.

2 other notes - 1) off picture to the right, a block of wood supports the bottom of the fixed arm, and 2) the mirror behind the spar can help keep an eye on the back side for alignment / squareness.

IMG_1877_25.jpg
 
I was able to use the pneumatic squeezer for the hinge plates on the VS rear spar as you've shown here. I was also able to use the same squeezer on all but the lower nut plates of the rudder spar. The upper ones used AN470AD4-6 rivets, which are not a problem. It's the 2 AN470AD4-9 rivets for the bottom nut plate that I'm having trouble with. I have completed an RV-9 tail kit years ago so, though a little rusty, it's not that I haven't had much experience.

I have been testing both the 2x and 3x rivet guns and manual squeezer in scrap material (admittedly NOT as thick as the spar build up of pieces) with no success. I would hate to have to try to remove one or both of these rivets and possibly have to reorder all the associated parts due to my ineptitude. I'm guessing the almost quadruple thickness of the piece will allow the AN470AD4-9s to be set properly.

If anyone has recently finished setting these longer rivets, please educate me as to your specific technique.

Thanks.
 
I set all of my -8 spar rivets with a 3X gun and tungsten bucking bar. I love using the gun over the squeezer. It's so quick. I pad the vice with a towel, and only clamp the web just enough to hold the spar.
 
Thanks to everyone who posted pics and advice. Ended up doing what I think most do, riveting the AN470AD4-9 rivets with my 3x rivet gun and tungsten bucking bar with no problem.

Building on! :D
 
I set them all with a pneumatic squeezer.

I don't have the patience or skill to smash universal rivets with any consistency.
 

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I set all of my -8 spar rivets with a 3X gun and tungsten bucking bar. I love using the gun over the squeezer. It's so quick. I pad the vice with a towel, and only clamp the web just enough to hold the spar.

I had my doubts about the tungsten bucking bar being able to handle the -8 rivets. BUT, they turned out great and my doubts have been turned into confidence. I DID use the pneumatic squeezer for the other rivets, though. Can't beat the quality and consistency of the final product.

Thanks for your response/reply.
 
I set them all with a pneumatic squeezer.

I don't have the patience or skill to smash universal rivets with any consistency.

For your same reasons, I also used my pneumatic squeezer for all but the two -9 rivets. I couldn't find the right squeezer cycle adjustment to handle the -9s. Therefore used my 3x gun and tungsten bar on them, fortunately with success.

Thank you for your response.
 
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