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Things you would have done differently?

60av8tor

Well Known Member
Working through all the fiberglass fun of the finish kit on my SB -10. For the past 3 years (just looked at my sig block; exactly 3 years today:)) I've followed some of the more thorough build logs (at least the ones I've found) - Tim O, Ed K, Bill T, Mike J, Justin T, B&B U. Now that the aforementioned have been flying for a good amount of time, I'm wondering what you all (and any other -10 builders) would do differently if you could go back?

I'm at the point - airframe still mostly opened up, before systems install - where most changes/adjustments wouldn't be too terribly difficult.

I appreciate the insight!
 
How much time do you have invested so far Jon? I'm a little more than a year into it and still working on getting my wings complete.

Charlie
 
Mike J [...] Now that the aforementioned have been flying for a good amount of time

I *wish* that were true for me... but thanks anyway for including me in the list :D

I've had my head down doing a lot of electrical stuff lately, including a ton of cool (to me) side projects, but haven't been making any updates to the blog at all. Someday I'll get back around to it.

Interested to see what others post here for advice... we're also at a similar point. Sounds like you're making excellent progress Jon, keep it up my friend! The year is young, let's fly before it's over :cool:
 
I wish I had installed access panels in the tunnel for the pump/filter.

And access panels for airing up the tires without having to remove the wheel pant.

I am glad I installed rudder trim.

Although I installed seat heaters, I very rarely use them, and the wiring is a pain------would not repeat if building another 10.
 
I am glad I installed rudder trim.

Although I installed seat heaters, I very rarely use them, and the wiring is a pain------would not repeat if building another 10.

I am still hoping I can figure out a rudder trim solution, but the control approach pedals I have don't work with Aerosport kit, and I'm not going to cut into my painted rudder. I'll probably have to install a Yaw Damper someday!

And I agree with the seat heaters. I did the same thing you did, Mike. Installed the heating pads in the seats, but never bothered wiring them up.

And the biggest mistake I made during my build... DON'T BUY ANY ELECTRONICS/AVIONICS BEFORE YOU NEED THEM!!! Anyone want to buy some TruTrak AP servos??
 
How much time do you have invested so far Jon?

Hi Charlie - I have a little over 2000 hours, but I've found that the time keeping varies greatly among individuals. I log when I walk in the garage and when I walk out. A lot of my 'build' time is probably scratching my head, staring blankly, and trying not to toss my dead blow into the tail cone:D I basically have 2 years of work as, unfortunately, I did a little more than 100 hours during all of '16.

but haven't been making any updates to the blog at all. Someday I'll get back around to it... we're also at a similar point. Sounds like you're making excellent progress Jon, keep it up my friend! The year is young, let's fly before it's over :cool:

Yes, you need to update your blog! How else am I gonna cheat and take advantage of your and Sarah's hard work:D Seriously, though, I'm sure you're way ahead of me at this point. As I stated above, I did barely 100 hours all of last year (busy year with my retirement and transition into the civilian world. I have to work for real now:eek:) We'll be moving back north this spring/summer, too, so I have another delay upcoming. Oh well, I'm taking this time to assuage my OCD by taking my time to try to make things as nice as my abilities will allow. My goal is for engine/avionics this summer/early fall and flying by OSH '18, but with the move and an upcoming job change, I'm afraid even that may be very optimistic.

access panels in the tunnel for the pump/filter, for airing up the tires, rudder trim...although I installed seat heaters, I very rarely use them

I'll probably have to install a Yaw Damper someday!.. I agree with the seat heaters...DON'T BUY ANY ELECTRONICS/AVIONICS BEFORE YOU NEED THEM!!![/B] Anyone want to buy some TruTrak AP servos??

Thank you both very much. I have the tunnel access. Excellent reminder about the pants - had holes on my -7A and they were very convenient. My plan, at the moment at least, is a yaw damper for the trim. Interesting about the seat heaters. That was a definite on the list, but now I'm going to reconsider...

Yes, Ed, I'm trying my best to run out of work (or close to it) prior to receiving any avionics. Perhaps it's just my imagination, but things seem to have slowed down a bit from when I bought my -7A (end of '11). Back then it seemed like every couple months there was some big announcement about a vendor adding this or that to their systems.

BTW, just watched your Johnson Creek video. Definite incentive to keep my head down and keep plugging away:)

Thanks guys!
 
To echo others - not buying avionics too early. Same with the engine although if properly pickled that one is less of an issue.

Other things I would have done differently:
-- Not gone with the Vertical Power electrical system. My system works fine, but in hindsight I should have just used traditional fuses and breakers- would have been way cheaper to install.
-- Stayed at home vs moving to the hangar until I absolutely had too. Cost me a lot of time and money simply because I got antsy.
-- Not doing metal prep on everything in the tailcone. I alodined and primed everything in the tailcone. I would have saved a ton of time if I hadn't. I just primed (no alodine) the faying surfaces in my wings and just the skin joint overlaps on the fuse and wished I had only done that with the tailcone.
-- Skipped the overhead console. This is one that I'm on the fence about. I like mine, but it was a lot of extra work (old Accuracy Avionics POS) for a nice to have mod. The newer ones available are way easier to install but again it's a nice vs need to have mod IMO.
-- Sort of related to the avionics, I would wait to pull wires until I was ready to wire things up. If I did it again I'd install conduit and pull strings and stop there.
-- Do a better job of protecting my plexiglass. I was sloppy and have varying types of scratches (and in one place paint) on every window which is translating into extra work to get them back to looking new.
-- Finally, I will never use the "eyeball" type firewall pass throughs again for control cables. There are more simplistic and easier to install ways to accomplish the same result.
 
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Question about Rudder Trim

A few posts above suggest that the yaw dampener (i.e. the Garmin AP with yaw dampener) can be used in lieu of rudder trim. Is this true? I thought the YD just kept the tail from wagging, not kept it in trim. Am I wrong about this?
 
I wish I had installed access panels in the tunnel for the pump/filter.

And access panels for airing up the tires without having to remove the wheel pant.

I am glad I installed rudder trim.

Although I installed seat heaters, I very rarely use them, and the wiring is a pain------would not repeat if building another 10.

Tunnel access panel - wish I had one
Tire air access panel - Maybe
Seat heaters - don't have them, in NorCal don't need them.
Rudder trim - don't have it, no desire to put it in, but:
I wish I had aileron trim. Shooting approaches is much easier when the plane is in perfect left right balance.
 
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A few posts above suggest that the yaw dampener (i.e. the Garmin AP with yaw dampener) can be used in lieu of rudder trim. Is this true? I thought the YD just kept the tail from wagging, not kept it in trim. Am I wrong about this?

I believe the answer is both, to an extent, but primarily the YD is intended to work as you described Mike. I think it can maintain some pressure on the rudder to keep it coordinated (all it's trying to do is center the ball), but if you need a fair amount of pedal pressure to do it then the yaw servo may not have enough authority, and the system will start barking at you to trim, which of course you can't if you don't have it. I suspect for the 90% use case though, this is enough to relieve your foot from having to maintain constant pressure, but still within the servo's capabilities. Not flying yet though of course, so I can't say personally for sure. As a data point, I'm installing both rudder trim and a YD to perform their individual duties.
 
IMO a YD is overkill and simply not required for the RV-10. I've got almost 100hrs of x/c time in my 10 in the past 15 months and I have just now gotten around to adding a rudder trim system because I got tired of keeping my foot on the pedal on 3-4 hr legs. A spring bias rudder trim is more that sufficient to handle the small amount of trim required.
 
I'm almost 4 yrs into my build and probably a couple thousand hours. I'm glad I did a slow build. I've enjoyed almost every rivet driven. There are a couple out there we will not discuss.

The past 12 months have been rough on our family, my wife was battling colon cancer. A few surgeries and lots of chemo and we are done. (all healed up and clear now).

With her out of work for a year I did some things in the build I probably would have just gone out and bought before. I did all of my interior upholstery sewing myself. I had very little money to put towards the -10 so I found creative and inexpensive ways to make upgrades.

- I made my own overhead console, learned a ton about fiberglass
- I made my own headliner fiberglass panels
- made rear window closeout trims, covered in pleather
- started, and have made great progress on wheel pants
- I did purchase aerosports 310 panel, made a few mods to it
- aerosport armrest with quadrant and all interior panels
- started wire runs. Six 3/4" conduit runs front to back.
- I'm committed to Dynon, still happy about that, and had already purchased ADAHRS, AP Servos, Pitot, ACK elt, aerosun landing/taxi/position, antennas, and various other components that should not be affected by new tech announced at this years Airventure and Oshkosh.

Now we are getting back on track and I'm working on financing to buy engine, prop, avionics and whatever is left to get er done.

I do still need the access hole for the tire pressure. Also need to upgrade to the better axle extensions. Tunnel access, and more tunnel cover splices done.

When I started my build I was barely a student pilot. Less than 10hrs. Did more flying in the past year than building and I'm now about to pass the 250 hr mark. Good things can come out of bad situations for sure.

One question to the group about rudder trim. Can a ground adjustable trim work on the -10? I could totally spend $100 and go out and get a servo and do the rudder trim tab mod at this point. I was just assuming I could install the aforementioned ground adjustable trim tab and be better off than doing nothing.
 
YD

I think I have an email from the Garmin guys that basically says what was stated in the previous post...the YD is there not as a trim tab but to control the small yaw oscillations.

I was contemplating adding it but then considered the price of the mount and the price of another servo. Check it out but be prepared for sticker shock!:eek:
 
One question to the group about rudder trim. Can a ground adjustable trim work on the -10? I could totally spend $100 and go out and get a servo and do the rudder trim tab mod at this point. I was just assuming I could install the aforementioned ground adjustable trim tab and be better off than doing nothing.

I have a fixed wedge, not adjustable, for rudder trim, and am perfectly happy with it. (Started with a pine one taped on. Cut it trial and error until it was the right length. Then made a foam and fiberglass one the same size, epoxied it on.)
Yes I need to hold rudder in a climb but the forces are light.
Edit. I don't have a yaw damper, no plans to add one. But I don't ride in back, either.
PS2: If you want an adjustable trim, take a look at the system that adds adjustable springs to the rudder pedals. No messing with the rudder.
 
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One question to the group about rudder trim. Can a ground adjustable trim work on the -10? I could totally spend $100 and go out and get a servo and do the rudder trim tab mod at this point. I was just assuming I could install the aforementioned ground adjustable trim tab and be better off than doing nothing.

I love my electric rudder trim! In the beginning I was wishing it was aileron trim but once I got use to it, it's just too convenient.

-Marc
 
I love my electric rudder trim! In the beginning I was wishing it was aileron trim but once I got use to it, it's just too convenient.

-Marc

?? Rudder trim does not replace aileron trim. I have neither, don't miss not having rudder trim, but do wish I had put in aileron trim.
 
Here are a few things that I?ll add to the list. I was a first time builder so I had a lot of obstacles to overcome.
1. Make sure you have enough wires pulled for your All your devices and devices you didn?t plan for. Add the wires now for the rudder trim, even if you?re not planning on installing it now. If you decide you need the trim later, the wires will already be in place. It?s no fun removing the seats just to have to remove the side panels to pull wires. :mad:
2. Change the Vans Fuel Valve for the better Andair FS20x7t. Maybe go with Flex lines too?
3. I had trouble with high CHT?s so I had to add a cowl flap, It?s something to think about, at least make room for now so if you need it later, the install would go smooth(er).
4. I cut my tunnel cover in 3rds . So it?s not very difficult to get to the filter. I only need to remove the first cover. Screws are easily accessible.
5. Follow Brian?s advice and remove the section of the seat rail (plastic insert) so you can remove your seats without removing the torque cover.
 
Lots of small things but a couple of biggies:

- Stick with the standard door seals. I've flown a -10 with them fitted. They work fine and don't look horrendous. I lost count of the number of hours I spent on the doors getting the automotive seal to fit. It almost caused me to quit.

- Once you have the wheel pants fitted, beef up the fiberglass structure around the attach points. Mine started cracking after about 30 hours.

- Think carefully before you drill out a rivet - "will it do?". Don't use an air drill to drill out! Battery drill at low speed. There are many rivets which are really difficult to set. Seriously consider using 1/8" cherries or 7/64" MK319s in these places - you will save a lot of heartache......
 
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There are many rivets which are really difficult to set. Seriously consider using 1/8" cherries or 7/64" MK319s in these places - you will save a lot of heartache......

Many?? I'd say that for the most part, if the plans call for a solid rivet, it's possible to get one in. You may need to be creative with bucking bars.
 
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The past 12 months have been rough on our family, my wife was battling colon cancer. A few surgeries and lots of chemo and we are done. (all healed up and clear now).

Very glad to hear that your wife is free and clear, Corey! Similarly, I had very little progress last year - wife lost cousin, mother, and grandmother in rapid succession; mother and cousin both to brain cancer. I looked forward to '16 as it marked my retirement from the military, but it was pretty much the worst year of my life.

Very good tips all, thanks.

You know I've been wondering about the YD vs rudder trim, and I guess I just don't know enough about how it works - i.e. what null point the system references. A call to Garmin is in order I guess. I installed a small metal tab on my 7 and will do the same if correction is needed on the 10. Or I may install Aerosport's system...

I have already begun the McMaster-Carr seal. I can already see that it will be some significant effort (some back and forth) getting a nice even fit, however I like the finished look.

Andair already installed. Good tip on the seat rail - never saw that one! Also good tip re reinforcing wheel pant attach area. I've riveted everything but the cabin top, upper fuse, and last tail cone skin. I don't recall using a rivet type other than called for by the plans. Shot most by myself; a friend assisted when solo was not possible.
 
Perhaps I'm obtuse, but give me a little more on this. It doesn't register.

Kyle, it's a mod to allow you to remove the front seats without having to remove the flap torque tube covers in front of the rear seats. The problem is the rear of the seat tracks hits the cover before the front of the seat track clears the rails. Another approach is to mod the seat rail itself.

Personally I don't have that issue and did not mod my seats or the rails in any way. I just leave my carpet in and the seats hit the covers but a little tug up and back and bingo the seats come off--no damage to the seat, carpet or covers. YMMV.....
 
Kyle, it's a mod to allow you to remove the front seats without having to remove the flap torque tube covers in front of the rear seats. The problem is the rear of the seat tracks hits the cover before the front of the seat track clears the rails. Another approach is to mod the seat rail itself.

Personally I don't have that issue and did not mod my seats or the rails in any way. I just leave my carpet in and the seats hit the covers but a little tug up and back and bingo the seats come off--no damage to the seat, carpet or covers. YMMV.....

Me too. I can get my front seats out with no modifications. I just have to pick up on the back a little as I get close to the covers.
 
My humble translation:

Many?? I'd say that for the most part, if the plans call for a solid rivet, it's possible to get one in. You may need to be creative with bucking bars.

Do you own one of every length and style of bucking bar ever made? If so, you're good to go. If not, at least consider saving untold effort and using a pulled rivet if it's not primary structure. Like a floor pan corner.:eek: There may be a way for some of these tucked-away rivets to be driven, but I can't find it with available tooling.
 
Sound proofing on the interior firewall before installing the brakes and instrument panel.
An inch or two more slack in my wire runs.
No insulation between the floor panels and the bottom skin.
Insulate the aft surface of the aft baggage wall.
Built a 10 sooner in life than I did!
 
Built a 10 sooner in life than I did!

This is a modification I wholeheartedly agree with. Otherwise, I like it the way it is. Simple, sweet, and speedy.

6A88B709-5475-4F5A-B5F7-3E7E937BCC0F_zpsdreefalc.jpg
 
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To put the addition of rudder trim in perspective, I have 10 hours in the modifications of the rudder and about another 7 in the wire up.
The wire up was more complicated than it needed to be because I wanted the trim on my stick grip and the two switches were SPST with a common ground shared with other switches so I needed a separate DPDT relay.

Cost was for the Ray Allen kit at about $300 (1" travel) http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/trimsystems.html. I spent about another $10 for the solid state relay at Digikey

Details are at this link http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=leok&project=2446&category=0&log=224584&row=28

In the greater scheme of things 20 hours and $310 seems like a small price to pay for the functionality. It all comes down to personal goals, keep it simple and fly soon or take the extra time to add stuff.
For me, I am adding things that I have found useful in my flying to date, and addressing the things that bug me in the aircraft I fly now (bad lighting, crappy interior, slow, slow, etc.).
I will say, backlighting all of my switches (very cool and worth it to me) and then adding color control on a whim (over the top, but cool none the less) , has added a lot of wiring time and some complexity. I would do it again though :D
 
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Mike,

Are you planning to install the spring bias rudder trim system?

Nope I added an integral trim tab while building the rudder, following much of what Brian Steeves did on his (link here). It runs off a Ray Allen servo inside the rudder, and will be connected to the GSA28 AP servo in very much the same way as the other two axes. I think Garmin's built-in auto trim is brilliant, in that it minimizes the load on the servo by automagically trimming for neutral control pressures (other systems can do this too, but I believe the Garmin is the only one with it built-in).

By all accounts, the spring bias system works great as well, also many people add a piano hinge to the trailing edge of the rudder that is controlled by a servo (easier to retrofit) and that also works great. It all depends on how much time you want to spend, cost-wise I don't think any solution is monumental compared to the many other mods out there.

What got me convinced to add "something" was our local flying RV-10 builder/owner who added rudder trim to his after flying, which made me think it must have been important enough to take it out of commission for a while to make the mod. It seems several people on this forum have also discussed adding rudder trim after the fact as well, so it seemed important enough to spend some time on early on, and if you can integrate it while building the rudder, then why not?

As for the decision to add YD, that's sort of a different mission than the rudder trim. The way I view it, the rudder trim is to make my own life easier, keeping me from having to hold pedal pressure in different flight phases and speeds/configurations/etc; while the YD is to give passengers a more tolerable ride in turbulence by eliminating dutch roll and tail wag, which does seem to occur at least at slower speeds.

Finally, yes the cost of the Garmin YD install kit is extremely high, but with a little creativity you can build your own for a fraction of the cost. I used a reinforced Van's ADAHRS tray (that mounts next to the battery/elevator bellcrank) to mount the servo, and making a "boomerang" actuated by a pushrod from the servo that attaches to the rudder cables via some 18" cables and a home-made cable clamp. I did this by borrowing ideas from both drawings/photos of the Garmin kit, and also some photos of various builders' home-brew YD using TruTrak servos.
 
Things I would change

760 hours on mine I would have...

Mount the fuel transducer on the firewall not the engine.
Put my wood stiffeners on the back of the main gear from the start.
Install Garmin's YD
Use Cee Baileys plastic for all windows and lenses
Did a better job researching aftermarket stuff from the start instead of getting it from Vans like- front axle, main brakes, tires, door seal, wheel pant to fairing transitions, engine baffle material, etc.



Glad I did....
All the Aerosport Products stuff
PlaneAround stuff ;)
plane innovated stuff
Plasma 111 for the top half
Iridium plugs
Garmin G3X
Desser retreads
GTS800 Traffic
My wife loves the seat heaters. I use them rarely myself

This brings up another problem I've noticed. I installed an Andair fuel selector. I ran some tests at an annual and noticed my engine would keep running at idle with the the Andair fuel selector closed. I noticed it was seeping fuel past the ball valve so I called Andair. They were great and shipped me another one. Problem is I notice the engine can still pull enough through it to idle. I'd like to know if others have this issue.
 
I will say, backlighting all of my switches (very cool and worth it to me) and then adding color control on a whim (over the top, but cool none the less) , has added a lot of wiring time and some complexity. I would do it again though :D

Just looked at (and book marked:D) your build log! Would you happen to have a link to the multi-colored LED strips and switches with the tip LEDs?
 
Shawn,

I'm curious about the wood stiffeners on the main gear. What issue does this resolve? Your comment is the first I've heard about this addition.

And thanks for shipping all your stuff expeditiously!
 
Add switch link
Just looked at (and book marked:D) your build log! Would you happen to have a link to the multi-colored LED strips and switches with the tip LEDs?


Here they are. $19.95 per meter. You can power directly with 12 volts, cut to any length in 2" increments, and dim with a 1000 ohm pot on the power supply line (to dim all colors at once) or each color ground line (to dim each color individually and have any color you want)

https://www.adafruit.com/products/2439

Here is the link for the lighted switches:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2112TCFW01/360-2311-ND/1048473

Have fun! :D
 
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Add switch link


Here they are. $19.95 per meter. You can power directly with 12 volts, cut to any length in 2" increments, and dim with a 1000 ohm pot on the power supply line (to dim all colors at once) or each color ground line (to dim each color individually and have any color you want)

https://www.adafruit.com/products/2439

Here is the link for the lighted switches:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2112TCFW01/360-2311-ND/1048473

Have fun! :D

Thank you very much!
 
Hey guys a couple questions
I'm a few pages away from installing Van's rudder pedal system and I corresponded with Paul with control approach yesterday and he is selling his "RV retro fit Rudder Pedals Upgrade kit" here: www.risseracing.com. Does anyone have experience with these? I have read a number of post about riding the brake ...being an issue with the stock 10 pedals. Do these help with that issue?

Also I was planning on using Aerosport's kit for trim - which Ed said won't work with Paul's RV 10 Rudder Pedal System. Being that these are just a pedal change and not a complete deviation from Van's - will Aerosport's kit still work with them installed?

Do you guys - that like to have rudder trim.... know if Aerosport's kit is a good solution as compared to electric trim?

Last: quote from Dennis "Sound proofing on the interior firewall before installing the brakes and instrument panel." What did you guys use for this? Fire proof? did you install it now at the point I'm at? - working on brake lines

Thanks in Advance!
 
Good Morning,

Ed was using one of the last full rudder pedal kits that Paul used to make (and doesn't anymore.) I believe the Aerosport trim kit should work just fine with Paul's new rudder pedal retrofit system. You're still using Van's rudder pedal frame, correct?

I also bought Paul's rudder pedal retro kit. I just haven't gotten around to installing it yet!

Before installing any insulation on the firewall, please read DanH's extensive research on the subject. I am planning to insulate on the engine side & leave the firewall interior bare. In the case of an engine compartment fire, there's a significant concern that anything on the cabin side of the firewall will burn, smoke, outgas, etc turning an already bad situation even worse.
 
Last: quote from Dennis "Sound proofing on the interior firewall before installing the brakes and instrument panel." What did you guys use for this? Fire proof? did you install it now at the point I'm at? - working on brake lines

Thanks in Advance!

I suggest reading a few of these threads before insulating the cabin side of your firewall:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=44187
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=47587
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=112905
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=72087

Look for DanH's burn tests...

edit: looks like I got beaten to the punch
 
Wow! Thanks Eric and Bob - that completely changes my direction for the interior soundproofing / insulation of the firewall. Dan has really done our homework for us :)
 
Good Morning,

Ed was using one of the last full rudder pedal kits that Paul used to make (and doesn't anymore.) I believe the Aerosport trim kit should work just fine with Paul's new rudder pedal retrofit system. You're still using Van's rudder pedal frame, correct?

The LAST one! :p

I really like mine, but the extra work caused be relocating the rudder cable attachment into the tunnel, the fact the I couldn't use the Aerosport rudder trim, and the lower price of the retrofit kit would have led me to choose the current kit over the one I have.

You should be good to go with this setup (including the Aerosport trim system).
 
Thanks Ed!
Great web site btw, it is my go to site for this build. Really nice to see your pics before I start working on a section....so pls don't take it down till I'm done :)

On these pedals do you know if they help when taxing , compared to the stock pedals. I've read numerous post about how the stock pedals can causing you to ride the brakes. Just curious if for the money Paul's pedals actually provide functionality along with aesthetics

Here is one thread where they discuss this
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=138917&highlight=Rudder+pedals
 
Actually, if you start riding your feet on the outboard edge of the stock pedal and move your feet inward to break rather than forward, it's pretty comfortable and functional as well.

Exactly how I've been flying my 6A for 19 years. Wears the paint off the rudder pedal side tubes and leaves a nice patina :D I like the extension idea, and I like these better for the $ than the $795 unobtanium ones.
 
- I made my own overhead console, learned a ton about fiberglass
- I made my own headliner fiberglass panels
- made rear window closeout trims, covered in pleather

Cory, can you share how you did this work? Pics anywhere?
 
Before installing any insulation on the firewall, please read DanH's extensive research on the subject. I am planning to insulate on the engine side & leave the firewall interior bare. In the case of an engine compartment fire, there's a significant concern that anything on the cabin side of the firewall will burn, smoke, outgas, etc turning an already bad situation even worse.

I installed an adjustable Supco temp limit switch ($15) that is normally used on gas or electric furnaces in my line of work. It senses cowl outlet temperature and will warn you as soon as a fire starts. I have mine set at 230 F. I originally had it set lower (220 F), but at 16,500', near gross wt/aft cg, my LED on the panel illuminated due to less dense air and 6 deg angle of incidence.

If you have an engine fire, it is not the SS firewall you need to be worried as much about. That .040" bottom tunnel skin burns through then your fuel and brake lines melt, causing a nice cabin fire. You will be popping the door for fresh air whether you have "cabin-side" or "engine-side" fw insulation or not. Early detection is what was important to me. In addition to the temp switch, ensure your fuel flow warning is set to 26-26.5 gph.

Mostly built per plans except for the above, McMaster Carr door seals, Aux 680 battery in back, and I use a small balsa stick for cruise rudder trim ($1). Yes, the std fuel selector still works just fine, I have a spare with fittings ready to go if needed and still 1/3 the cost. Fine wire plugs get me smooth running at 40 deg LOP vs massives. 10.5 gph, 160 ktas.

Things I don't like...Main gear occassionally shaking like a wet dog. Cheap out-of-round (1/4-5/16") factory tires. No tire valve access doors. Not enough heat up high in the back. Painted interior is noisy without ANR's at full power (but lighter and easier to maintain). Lower cowling difficult to get on/off with rubber seals at ramps, hinges and nose gear fairing. Brakes are very marginally sized at gross wt, so must be at 68-70 kts and touch down on the numbers for 2000' or less runways to leave some extra margin.

Overall, for the price, it is a great family plane. Starting our 6th yr flying.
 
Oh, almost forgot. I really like Strasnuts' safety door latch mod and the factory magnetic switches/my LED'S. Doors never left unlatched yet.
 
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