RV-9A Andy C. Kalamazoo, Mi

[KazooRV-9A]

Back to work on the RV-9A project here in wintry Kalamazoo Mi. Took a bit of a break from building, but managed to retire in the meantime so the project is taking a decided leap forward.

Ill be dropping off all my engine parts that I've been gathering and refurbing, to Poplar Grove Airmotive for assy and run-in. Great shop up there in Ill.

And have been working on the right fuel tank, I think I'm done with the Pro-seal work. Best thing was the use of a Semco potting gun, vs. squeezing pro-seal out of a baggie!

[KazooRV-9A]

So it's been really cold up here in Michigan lately, and the shop's been pretty chilly, and I don't heat it when I'm not out working on the RV.
So after 4 days or so since closing up the right fuel tank, I notice that the Proseal sealant isn't curing very well.
...So I figure that bringing it into the warm house is probably a good plan and the heated mattress pad seems like an even better idea!
(Hope the wife doesn't mind sleeping on the couch for a few nights...)

[KazooRV-9A]

Working on the right wing top skins. The Blue stuff has been on the skins for years, so was really tough to remove. One of the local EAA members who has been helping me, saw this broom trick for removing the protective film. Gives you leverage over it.


And just assembly work on the outer leading edge. Lots of holes to final drill, debur, and dimple. Ready to rivet here.

[KazooRV-9A]

Continued working on the right wing leading edge. Had a couple of days last week in the upper 50's here in SW Michigan, worked with the shop door open for awhile!
Leading edge now on, finally something permanently installed!

[Piper J3]

I have a question... I'm not a builder. I see the blue protective film on the skins and wonder how you cut the film to expose the bare aluminum for riveting. Do you use a razor blade, and if so, wouldn't that make a scratch and potential stress riser?

[eric.the.blonde]

Weller soldering gun for that blue plastic. Only successful use of it in 30 years.

[KazooRV-9A]

As Eric said, use a soldering gun with rounded tip, along a straight edge (I used a 1" wide piece of flat alum). Then peel off where desired. No marks on skin.
I don't have any razor blades in the shop, for the reason you noted.

AC

[bruceh]

I found using the soldering iron on the plastic worked great. You don't need much pressure at all, and you can polish the tip which will prevent any scratching of the underlying aluminum. I did however, use a wooden yard stick instead of any metal ruler to make the lines. The metal ruler would suck just enough heat out of the tip to no longer melt the plastic. The wooden ruler worked much better.

Also, if you are going to prime your skins, you can run the soldering iron along the overlaps and leave the plastic on as a mask for the places where you want to prime just the underlying area.

[KazooRV-9A]

Finished up riveting the outer leading edge. Then time to pressure test the right fuel tank.
The wife had a bicycle pump, but it seemed to only fit a 1980's Cannondale tire tube,,, so no joy there. But I found my trusty Mastervac and pumped things up sufficiently to soap up all the seams and rivets, and no leaks indicated, Yay!
Installed the tank and now onto riveting the top skins.

[agirard7a]

Do your self a favor. Put a half gallon/gallon of av gas in the tanks and let the tank rest horizontally with the rear baffle downward. Put it on the garage floor.
If you have a leak it will most likely come from the rear baffle area. You will see spots on the concrete if it leaks. I pressure tested mine with soap and there was no sign of bubbles. Yet both of my tanks had small leaks discovered when mounted on the plane. I would have saved a lot of time if I put fuel in the tanks when they where not mounted to the wings. The true test.