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  #11  
Old 05-08-2021, 04:46 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,597
Default Duburing party

Deburr Party is sort of a joke. Difficult to control a bunch of folks. However, I did have a dear friend who enjoyed helping. He actually came back!
Sadly he moved away. I miss my building buddy.
We had a few sessions over the course of fhe Wings. Deburring was fun.
We joked and talked. Adult beverages after.
I was very strict at first. Just a turn or two. Check. If it needs more, another turn.
In very short time, he was a pro. Just the burr removed. No chamfer or countersink.
Just saying. Life is short. Make friends.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2021, 07:34 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,734
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
If your goal is to sped things up, then a single-hole demurring bit (Cleavaland has them) stuck in a cheap electric screwdriver is a GREAT way to do a lot of holes in a short time in a non-overly-aggressive manner. If I need to do the back side of a hole, I like the Shaviv “S”-shaped bits - that tool comes out of the drawer occasionally, but when it’s needed, its really needed.There used to be lots of posts here about EZ-burs...mostly about how folks had broken them. You find lots of the larger sizes for sale in the flymarts at the big shows, built the#30 and #40 are rare finds - my guess is because the small ones break before they wear out.
I am one of the guys that has had several #30 and #40 EZ-bur tools. They are expensive and break. The blade is supposed to be replaceable but the new tool blade does not work in the old tools and the blade for the old tool is not available. Have been unable to get a new blade installed in one of the new tools after it broke. When they work, they are fast. Problem is, they break, and require repair. The time spent fixing them and deburring with them takes more time than just using using one of the Cleaveland tools in a cheap electric screwdriver.
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2021, 07:51 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,966
Default

A fast way to deburr skin holes, or holes an any flat part, is to lay a fine file flat on the surface and slide it across the row of holes, once on each side. If necessary, a reamer will remove any burr inside the hole.

Dave
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2021, 09:36 AM
JeremyL JeremyL is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Maurertown,Virginia
Posts: 119
Default

Some great conversation and points being made here. I do have the single hole in an electric screw driver from cleavland, it works great, it’s just a total pain to get the inside of a rib, etc. I just ordered a 3/32 ez burr from ACS. So I will report back once that gets in and I get some time with it. There are pros and cons to everything….
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2021, 11:07 AM
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HAL Pilot HAL Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 282
Default

The trick with the ez burr is to adjust the "bite" on some scrap first. Once your happy with a light bite go at it. It makes quick work of large pieces. After you might have to follow up a few stubborn holes with manual tool or an additional pass w the ez burr.
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  #16  
Old 05-09-2021, 07:10 PM
JeremyL JeremyL is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Maurertown,Virginia
Posts: 119
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL Pilot View Post
The trick with the ez burr is to adjust the "bite" on some scrap first. Once your happy with a light bite go at it. It makes quick work of large pieces. After you might have to follow up a few stubborn holes with manual tool or an additional pass w the ez burr.
Thank you for the heads up.
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2021, 08:26 PM
skybolt31 skybolt31 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Westfield, MA
Posts: 81
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fixnflyguy View Post
or a thumb vixen file on thin stuff.
What is a thumb vixen file?
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  #18  
Old 05-10-2021, 08:28 AM
fixnflyguy fixnflyguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,429
Default Thumb Vixen

I don't have picture of it with me, but its a tiny vixen file about an inch long with a little curved wood handle that you pretty much push along with your thumb or finger. Got mine from a Boeing surplus store years ago. The Yard Store sells a palm version about 3" long. The vixen shaves off the burr cleanly..but you risk slightly scratching alclad. Not a worry if priming/painting.
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  #19  
Old 05-19-2021, 09:03 AM
JeremyL JeremyL is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Maurertown,Virginia
Posts: 119
Default Mixed feelings….

So I’ve used it and I have mixed feelings with it. Some holes it works ok on and other holes it won’t remove a burr or it chamfers the back side of the hole too much and the front ok. Im not too happy with the chamfer it creates in order to adequately remove burrs. So I’ve been trying and using the “larger drill bit method” and the single hole duburr tool. The ezburr is and will continue to be amazing for impossible to reach areas. As they say….. YMMV
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  #20  
Old 05-21-2021, 07:01 PM
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Vfr1200 Vfr1200 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Celina ohio
Posts: 31
Default Great info

Quote:
Originally Posted by fixnflyguy View Post
I have used them for 40 years, and have them all the way up to 3/4". My day job is a structural specialist for heavy aircraft, and I spent a lot of time working with B737 thin skin failure issues. To the layman, de-burring is a magical novelty that yields a smooth beautifully produced hole, however in thin materials it can be problematic. Think of it this way..the skin/structure transfers load through the fastener into the adjacent structure aka, "bearing strength". When holes are de-burred, the area of the bearing surface is reduced and the condition of knife edging is increased, resulting in fastener movement/failure. In reality, we only try and remove the burr caused by drilling that interferes with stck-up. I have seen folks get really overboard and end up with a hole that has a small countersink on both sides. Those de-burr tools are great for in situ work where access is limited. I actually prefer to de-burr with scotchbrite, a 6 flute countersink with my fingers, or a thumb vixen file on thin stuff.
I have the Ezburr tools also ,,

I have often thought about the tool taking to much material out but as a new builder just used what was easy , I just hit the thin material quick and light , will try the scotchbrite method
I use a under sized bite for drilling then reamer bits for final size and holes are nice and tight sometimes when i deburr it opens holes to much ! Also use the reamer for match drilling
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