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Any tips on how to remove flap tape?

X

XLS+PAT

Active Member
The tape on the flaps between the wing and flaps is old and yellow. Got some new tape from Van's. After lowering the flaps to get full access to the tape I found it very difficult to get the old tape off.

Any tips on how to remove the old tape? I want to be very careful not to do any paint or sheet metal damage.

Thanks

Pat

N931CB KHAF RV7
 
THE way to do it is with a vinyl stripe removing wheel. It is a rubber wheel that chucks up in a drill and makes removal easy. About 30 minutes a side. Available at your local auto paint store or through Amazon. Probably 8-12$.
 
And….once you have removed it, consider going back with stainless steel tape - looks good, never yellows, lasts the life of the flap, and you’ll never have to struggle with it again…..
 
Plus 1 for the Flyboy Accessories flap film and the eraser wheel mentioned. I just did this during the last condition inspection, the wheel really helped get the adhesive off the paint after you peel off the surface and sometimes it does not peel off cleanly. The new film is like they put on the hood of cars, goes on easy with soapy water and you can barely see it when installed.
Figs
 
Much easier with the flaps removed. Contact adhesive remover will help to get the glue off.
 
StuBob said:
What’s this stainless steel tape?
Click to expand...

You can get it from McMaster:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/tape/stainless-steel-foil-tape/?s=stainless+steel+tape

Use the 3” with acrylic adhesive - and absolutely wear thin gloves because this stuff is razor-blade sharp!

Here it is on our RV-3 - note this installation is twelve years old…..

4D596D49-9A0F-4D70-B7D0-79E3A7E80597.jpg
 
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Kyle Boatright said:
THE way to do it is with a vinyl stripe removing wheel. It is a rubber wheel that chucks up in a drill and makes removal easy. About 30 minutes a side. Available at your local auto paint store or through Amazon. Probably 8-12$.
Click to expand...


As a related question, would the wheel also be a good way to remove old wing walk material from the wing? I need to replace my wing walk as it’s aging and starting to peel up.

Thanks!
 
MikeinPhoenix said:
As a related question, would the wheel also be a good way to remove old wing walk material from the wing? I need to replace my wing walk as it’s aging and starting to peel up.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The eraser wheel abrades fairly quickly as it removes the tape/glue. Last year when I removed my tape I think I used 2 eraser wheels, one per side. As the wheel wears they become less effective. The wing walk may wear it down very fast and require you to use quite a few wheels.
I found the “spoked” ones to be more effective than the solid ones and they wear faster.
 

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Removal

XLS+PAT said:
The tape on the flaps between the wing and flaps is old and yellow. Got some new tape from Van's. After lowering the flaps to get full access to the tape I found it very difficult to get the old tape off.

Any tips on how to remove the old tape? I want to be very careful not to do any paint or sheet metal damage.

Thanks

Pat

N931CB KHAF RV7
Click to expand...
I can not say this is better than a wheel but it worked well for me and it felt risk free and low effort.

I have removed the tape with a mixture of 90% mineral spirits and 10% naphtha. Strips of non embossed (Viva) towels were cut a touch wider than the tape. Two layers were laid on and solvent spread/soaked the strips. They were well covered in aluminum foil and left for 4-6 hours. The tape was then removed progressively, leaving the foil on until removed for a 1-2' section. The tape easily came off, cut the section, then set aside the top (soaked) towel and used a plastic razor blade to scrape off the adhesive. Collected it on the lower towel, and then used upper wet towel to wipe the surface clean/free of adhesive. Additional clean/wet towels may be needed (I didn't). The actual labor time was 20-30 min prep and application then removal took about the same time. No harm to the surface. Nitrile gloves recommended.

The paint shop removed the film (again) and installed 3M chip guard (against my request) and as expected it sticks - - causing snaps-pops and shudder of the flap in movement. The stainless sounds like a good long term solution (Thanks Paul!), but unknown if the stated process would remove it.

Have fun :)
 
How may people have a problem with the 3m chip guard?
The stainless may be just as bad.

You might try some high quality ceramic coating on it to reduce friction. It will help keep it clean too. Ceramic coating often work nicely on plastic

A small bottle of the good stuff labeled 6h-8h might be 50 dollars
but will remain slick for years.
 
Ironflight said:
Use the 3” with acrylic adhesive - and absolutely wear thin gloves because this stuff is razor-blade sharp!
Click to expand...

Any install tips on how not to get a wrinkle or bubble? Can it be floated on water until you get it just right?

It just dawned on me…….Wouldn’t this be than UHMW tape on gear legs to prevent chafing from the wheel fairings?
 
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maxmirot said:
How may people have a problem with the 3m chip guard?
The stainless may be just as bad.

You might try some high quality ceramic coating on it to reduce friction. It will help keep it clean too. Ceramic coating often work nicely on plastic

A small bottle of the good stuff labeled 6h-8h might be 50 dollars
but will remain slick for years.
Click to expand...

Check out John’s 360. Although John passed away recently, his aircraft painting business is going strong and carried on by his son Daniel and located on my home field (KJVW).

https://johns360coatings.com/
 
Webb said:
Any install tips on how not to get a wrinkle or bubble? Can it be floated on water until you get it just right?

It just dawned on me…….Wouldn’t this be than UHMW tape on gear legs to prevent chafing from the wheel fairings?
Click to expand...

I find that the easiest way to install it is to have two people - one holding each end to line it up, and then one of the people “daubs” it into place. It has no stretch, and I have only had good luck with it on flat or single-curve surfaces, so I don’t try to put it on anything complex.

I like it on flaps because it is completely hidden with the flaps up, and looks “interesting” with them down. If I was using it anywhere, I’d want it completely hidden unless I worked the shiny strip into my paint scheme.

Paul
 
I installed Venture Shield paint protection film (3M product) on my RV6 in 2009. Still looks like new and have never had any snaps, pops or shudder of the flap in movement. The instructions suggested application of Plexus after install. I have also used whatever polish or wax I use on the plane. No problems. Obviously don’t use any abrasive cleaners or buffing or polishing equipment.

Stainless Steel tape and UHMW always shows nicks and scratches over time. While beauty is subjective, I have never seen an RV with stainless tape that looked anywhere as good as the clear film. I wish I had done it during the initial build.
 
On my gear legs . . .

Webb said:
It just dawned on me…….Wouldn’t this be than UHMW tape on gear legs to prevent chafing from the wheel fairings?
Click to expand...

I had to re work my gear leg fairings and noted it was rubbing when the leg flexed. A 3/8" (UHMW) wide strip upper and lower has worked very well to prevent the wear.
 
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