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So please put this in terms that a high school history teacher can understand. I have a -3 with an O-320, and I live in Florida. I have used 100wt for as long as I can remember, with no problems. Engine longevity is a concern to me so which is better 15/50 or 100wt. Even on the colder days it stays around 65 degrees in the hanger, so pre-heating is not an issue (or is it?). I am going to start using cam guard on the next oil change. I love reading these posts, cause it reminds me that there are still smart people out there.
If Alex does not purge the engine combustion products (and replace with low ambient DP) from the engine case when still warm, it will remain saturated with water . . . period. The corroding element in the blow--by is sulfur (compounds) and condenses at a lower temp than water. With the condensing water, on the internal components, an unhappy pH will result. It is possible that the water will condense and all fall to the bottom of the sump, but the saturated condition is likely to remain.
There does not seem to be a downside to 15W50 oil, even in warmer climates, except a possibly slightly higher price. Florida can freeze as anyone who grows citrus knows (and fears) but even if you are at 65 or higher, 15w50 will flow better at the lower temps.
I have read all of the posts, and I am still confused
Thank you for your replies.
I have read all of the posts, and I am still confused
That is consistent with my former career contacts inside the company and the big suppliers. There is shear down of the VI improvers and it tends downward - - once upon a time it was accelerated with fuel dilution and could even restrict filters. I keep an eye on my oil analyses and the viscosity has not suffered, so likely the aviation oil additives have improved. It would be a surprise if they didn't.
#1 reason in my opinion.
Thanks, Dan. That is pretty convincing but can you tell me why they are using kinematic viscosity as their measurement instead of dynamic viscosity, or even absolute viscosity? I researched the terms but still a bit unsure. Not that I don't fully trust big corporations like Aeroshell.
can you explain it in a way my 90 yr old grandmother will understand it so she can explain it to me? hahaha..
Nevermind. Found my answer in the Aeroshell docs.
Iced spark plugs is such a known and well documented issue.... clear back to when I learned to fly in 1972. Whether you believe it or not.... Cheers and have a happy Easter.
Any chance you can point to that documentation?
I agree with you...where's the evidence.
The 9 blades was to confirm no hydraulic lock in any jug...not sure this applied to the 550 since oil can't drain into a cylinder. I would just let the 550 rip.
Hope you are right Dan as my RV sits cold every winter in MN while I am in AZ.
My plane is at KBRD year-round. I don't rely on anything regarding Minnesota weather (this year it was raining on Christmas day) and although I preheat the engine to 100° before staring the engine in winter for the sake of lubricity/viscosity/whatever, I've opted to manage the dew point issue and presumed associated corrosion by continuously pumping dehydrated air through the engine all the rest of the time, year round. No data to prove that that's the best way to do it, but no data to indicate that it's not and it makes sense to me.
Very interesting thread, this is what I want to know too. The temp in my insulated, normally I unheated hangar never gets below 40 degrees. There really doesn’t seem to be a reason to preheat, but I still do it, with my Reiff oil pan heater. The reason is to limit the warm up time before I can take off. The low indicated oil temp limit is 58*, and I want to see some warm up before takeoff. I know what Lycoming says about min oil temp for takeoff. I have my min setting in my EFiS at 70*. If I had to wait for a 100* indicated OT here in Cincy in the winter (or 125 as some have suggested), I would never take off. I have the air from my 3” SCAT to my firewall mounted cooler completely closed off in the winter, and I still only see about 160 on the cold days. I’ve done this both ways - no preheat and preheat for 2+ hours, and the only noticeable difference is the amount of time it takes to get my OT indication off the peg (O-360, 15W50, one EI, strong starter).
My Luscombe WAS an old Farm Tractor.. It just happened to have some post war aluminum tacked on for wings and tail. I remember when that old engine quit one day. I ended up on my back in a field. The FAA came along and wanted to talk about my bad planning. They said "let's sit down with the POH" and review some things. I said, " do you mean this brochure from 1946 that tells how to check the oil, wash the windscreen and launch". They didn't even smile.
