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Old 01-19-2023, 06:57 AM
Jesse23 Jesse23 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Sping Hill, FL
Posts: 87

Originally Posted by fixnflyguy View Post
Over the last couple years, I have been "talked into" repairing about a dozen leaky RV tanks.. I don't do it for a living or for fun, but I spend a lot of time around Proseal and leaking KC-10 tanks. Finding the actual leak can be undaunting, and wide area resealing is often the only answer. Most recently, I di an RV-10 tank which had constant drip from the vent line. As mentioned ,access through the sender hole with tank installed is a PITA. The owner removed the tank and brought it o me (he was still paintless and in phase 1). He tried the re-torque of the B nut with a funky tool through sender hole and no success. I made an access hole on the I/B bay and disconnected the line, finding a kindergarten level flare that wasn't sealing. The bulkhead fitting was sealed very well and wasn't leaking as in your case, however, I am an advocate of topcoat sealing any fitting inside the tank, and outside the tank. After I installed the line with a flareseal, the fitting received full topcoating of PR1422A1/2 , which is a thinner brushable high flow Proseal. Even when I do 1422"B" sealant, I topcoat with "A". In your case, you may get a successful exterior fix by thorough cleaning, SS wire brush abrading and topcoating of the entire area including the B-nut and furrel .Remove as much old sealant as possible first. While its not optimum (going inside is), it may seal forever. I use Coleman camp fuel as final wipe for all my sealant work (except on KC-10's as the manual requires MEK or Acetone.
Thanks Bill - taking a hard look this morning with the builder on possibly installing 2 CherryMax PBR rivets along with a thorough cleaning as much as possible. Thanks for both responses on the better flowing A ProSeal.
Bill RV 10 N2722W
Based KBKV
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