Wing Root Fuel Vent hardware after 200 Hrs Pilot Side

[Jesse23]

Has anyone ever replaced this bulkhead hardware after the fact? Or, drilled the rivets out and tried again? The Pic shows seepage, before it gets worse after more than 25 Gals in the tank, then starts its path down and out the lower wing root cover. Cleaning and adding Proseal inside/under the root fairing did not cut it. The second pic was an attempt to proseal the only side I can get to inside the wing root. Vent tube removed. (still seeps with more than 25 gals) . It appears I have to get into the tank to fix and or replace. The Fuel Arm sealed up nicely, but even If I removed it to get to the vent, that hole is way too small for anyone's hands in the RV 10.

Regards,
Bill

[Machsandy]

Hello Bill

There is a known problem where the vent line on the inside of the tank has a loose nut where it mounts on the inboard fitting. Could that be the problem you have?

We had this problem and was able to solve it through the fuel sender hole. There are a few suggestions on other threads as to making a bespoke tool to do the job.

[9GT]

Are these quick build wings? When I dissected my RV-9A quick build fuel tanks, I found that there was hardly any sealant on and around that bulkhead fitting.

[Jesse23]

Originally Posted by 9GT

Are these quick build wings? When I dissected my RV-9A quick build fuel tanks, I found that there was hardly any sealant on and around that bulkhead fitting.

Slow build. Didn’t show up till 200 Hrs. May try to drill out rivets holding the anti rotation plate inside rib, then Pro Seal 2 Cherry Max SPR (self plug rivets) 3/32 rivets, and try to get sone Pro Seal behind the bulkhead nut. May need a long rod or cleco to keep the plate inside the tank from dropping off the hole location onto the vent line. Just not an easy area to work in.

[kearney]

Bill.

Get some pro seal type A. It flows quite easily where as b sealant will not. Get a syringe and graft a piece of -4 versa tube to the end. You can bend the tube into a hook and then go in through the fuel sender hole.

If the tank is out you can stand it in the end till it sets.

I did this to seal the seam below sender hole. Worked like a charm.

[kearney]

Bill

The pix below illustrates what I was referencing. You may need to bend the tubing more. I used a sem gun but a large bore syringe could be made to work.

I wouldn’t start drilling rivets as I have found leaks often are not where you think.

[Jesse23]

Originally Posted by kearney

Bill.

Get some pro seal type A. It flows quite easily where as b sealant will not. Get a syringe and graft a piece of -4 versa tube to the end. You can bend the tube into a hook and then go in through the fuel sender hole.

If the tank is out you can stand it in the end till it sets.

I did this to seal the seam below sender hole. Worked like a charm.

Found the pic of the 1st discovery at the rivet.

[Jesse23]

Originally Posted by kearney

Bill.

Get some pro seal type A. It flows quite easily where as b sealant will not. Get a syringe and graft a piece of -4 versa tube to the end. You can bend the tube into a hook and then go in through the fuel sender hole.

If the tank is out you can stand it in the end till it sets.

I did this to seal the seam below sender hole. Worked like a charm.

No tank removal. Drilled out top rivet and used a sealed rivet in the top offending hole. Looks to be resolved and not leaking. It is not pretty.