RV-7/7a Plan Gottcha's

[Mike S]

Starting a thread.

Here is a link to a spreadsheet of gotcha's that may be useful.

Thanks to Allen for this.


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...QZg/edit#gid=0

[wirejock]

Awesome sauce. Thank you Mike. I'll kick it off.
When you build the W414 aileron hinge bracket. The plans call for flush head on the outboard side. Put them in the other way. Flush head on the inboard side. Otherwise the shop head can become a clearance problem.

[KJBSouth]

There are factory punched holes not shown on the drawing. Read results of a call to Vans at the following link.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=120788

[wjb]

Originally Posted by wirejock

Awesome sauce. Thank you Mike. I'll kick it off.
When you build the W414 aileron hinge bracket. The plans call for flush head on the outboard side. Put them in the other way. Flush head on the inboard side. Otherwise the shop head can become a clearance problem.

FYI ... from Sterling earlier in the year ...

The RV-7 Aileron brackets will both have the rivets flush on the outboard side of the assembly.
Sterling

On 9 Jan 2014 at 0:15, William Bencze wrote:

HI Vans, I'm putting together the outboard aileron brackets for my -7and have a question about which side to put the flush heads on ... It seems that the note from dwg 10A, W-413 assy was inadvertently duplicated for W-414 assy, implying that the flush heads of the AN426 rivets should be on the outboard side (text is the same as for W-413, including the call-outs for the W-413 components).It would seem that the flush heads should be on the inboard side of the W-414 assy to avoid any interference with the aileron after installation. See the red markup on the photo below. Which is the proper side?

Thanks much, Bill Bencze Builder 74152

[RV7A Flyer]

DWG 39 F-631D and C angles...very easy to misread the plans and make them wrong (e.g., backwards, upside down, what have you). Ask me how I know this.

[OLDSAM]

Checking Dwg 9, the outboard end of the aileron leading edge skin has to clear the W-414-C angle and its protruding rivets, which are well inboard of the rivets back near the bearing, so would not expect the shop ends of these rivets to be a factor if on the inboard side, with the flush head on the outside. I'm hoping so, as mine are built per plans, but I'm not to the point of mounting the ailerons yet.

[High_Flyer]

When building the Tip Up Canopy Release mechanism be careful at the C-621 and C-622 dimensions on drawing 47:



The length of both parts are shown between the holes and is not the total length as is usually the case elsewhere on the plans.
If you make these dimensions the total length you will end up 1 inch short.

Don't ask me how I know... It seems I'm not the only one to have done this mistake.

Alain.

[wjb]

I spent some time struggling to install the F-782D brackets that back up the F-782A cover plates that conceal the fuel lines and other plumbing on the foward side of the spar on a -7.

The plans call for LP4-3 pop rivets to hold down the bracket. This is a totally non-structural install and LP4-3's a good choice from that perspective.

However, the space between the F-7101 web and the outer skin is pretty shallow. I had a very hard time setting the LP-4-3's so that the head would be flush with the 782D bracket ... the rivets seem just a bit too long.

I found, though, that MPS-42 pop rivets work very well. Yes, these are structural rivets and are overkill for the job, but they do set down nicely. They are a bit shorter, and permit the head to settle down against the bracket before the backside is fully formed.

Here's how it looks with the MPS-42's



Also, I've found that I can drill out the LP4-3's and fish out the shop heads with a bit of wire through the hole for the fuel line. It was actually quite easy using an angle drill to shave off the top of the LP4-3, use a poker to flip the rivet nub on its side between the F-7101 web and the outer skin, and fish the leftovers out.

(sorry -7Aers, you got a gear tower in the way ;-)

{and, yes, those are HW store bolts holding down the F-7114 gusset}

[wirejock]

Not a "Gotcha" but something you should think about before riveting the aft top skins.
Vans makes a shelf. I suggest you order it early, if that's your plan, before riveting the bottom skins.
I missed it and decided to go with a shelf mounted on the forward side of F707 bulkhead between the J-Stiffeners. It came out rock solid. I ordered some #6 non ferrous nutplates to install so it will be removable.
I drew the plans. If anyone wants the plan, shoot me an e-mail. It's big enough for two Dynon ADAHRS mounted side by side.

[Lemmingman]

There is no call-out in the instructions to fabricate the F-782D cover angle on plans page 34. It is not dependant on anything, and you dont need to make it until you're ready to put your fuel line covers on permanently, but I overlooked it. You might want to make a note to fab it.