What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Which paint gun(s) to buy

dweyant

Well Known Member
I really thought I would find a thread or three on this, but if they exist I can't find them.

I'm probably going to build another RV in the next year or two and I'd like to paint the interior myself this time.

I'd also like to be able to do some touchup painting on my 9A (nose wheel fairing mostly).

What gun would you recommend for a complete novice painter?

Thanks!

-Dan
 
Cost

I really thought I would find a thread or three on this, but if they exist I can't find them.

I'm probably going to build another RV in the next year or two and I'd like to paint the interior myself this time.

I'd also like to be able to do some touchup painting on my 9A (nose wheel fairing mostly).

What gun would you recommend for a complete novice painter?

Thanks!

-Dan

Paing gun war? Kidding. It would help to have a budget. How much are you ok with spending. I wouldn't go cheaper than DeVilbiss FLG for final paint. Harbor Fright is ok for learning but a good gun makes all the difference. A good Iwata can set you back $1K. Add all the other stuff (regulators, filters, etc) puts a big hole in the checkbook.
 
Paint guns

Decide what type of paint you will be shooting and then consult the paint guys for the recommended needle size.

Decide standard gun, low pressure, etc

Don’t forget safety equipment as the iso paints will kill you

Size compressor. Noise of compressor matter.

Then there are some water base paints available now

I’m sure the VAF folks will chime in
 
Paing gun war? Kidding. It would help to have a budget. How much are you ok with spending. I wouldn't go cheaper than DeVilbiss FLG for final paint. Harbor Fright is ok for learning but a good gun makes all the difference. A good Iwata can set you back $1K. Add all the other stuff (regulators, filters, etc) puts a big hole in the checkbook.

Something between Harbor Freight and Iwata would be good.

I'd like good quality, but don't want to spend a fortune since I'm not going to be making a living doing this.

-Dan
 
I, too, was a complete beginner when I needed to paint the interior of my plane. I bought the 3M Accu Spray gun and used Sherwin Williams Jet Flex WR (water reducible) paint, so I didn’t poison myself. The 3M gun was great, uses a removable, replaceable nozzle and disposable paint cups. Simple to use and to clean. The Jet Flex WR was a very forgiving, self-leveling paint, perfect for a beginner. It also dries into a very durable coating. When I have needed to repair scratches on the canopy rail, I just paint them with a foam brush, and with the self-leveling, they just about disappear. :).
 
Something between Harbor Freight and Iwata would be good.

I'd like good quality, but don't want to spend a fortune since I'm not going to be making a living doing this.

-Dan

I have guns from HF, DeVilbiss, Sharpe, Binks, Eastwood and a couple others.

DeVilbiss FLG 4 is about the best blend of price : performance out there right now if you ignore the HF purple gun. The Eastwood Concourse 2 is slightly cheaper but doesn't include other fluid tip sizes like the FLG 4.

If you are going to be spraying more than a few sessions, the 3m PPS (or the DeVilbiss dekups) system makes clean up a ton easier and you can spray upside down. Especially useful when painting the interior. It's another $100 by the time you buy the stuff and the adapter though.

What compressor do you have? The HVLP guns use a lot of air.
 
I shoot primer with the HF cheapy.
Finish coats with a Devilbiss GFG-670 Plus gun, that is a work of art. (discontinued now, but still out there at around $400)
I'm sure anything it that price range would be fine. As mentioned you will need a couple tips depending on what the paint calls for.

As with every tool and skill, practice until you get the gun and yourself dialed in. Get a couple trunk lids or similar from the scrap yard as practice material and a quart of gloss black in your selected paint to practice. That will show your mistakes best. Keep working until you figure out how to lay it on with no orange peel. (and follow the paint tech sheet!)
 
FLG

I have guns from HF, DeVilbiss, Sharpe, Binks, Eastwood and a couple others.

DeVilbiss FLG 4 is about the best blend of price : performance out there right now if you ignore the HF purple gun. The Eastwood Concourse 2 is slightly cheaper but doesn't include other fluid tip sizes like the FLG 4.

If you are going to be spraying more than a few sessions, the 3m PPS (or the DeVilbiss dekups) system makes clean up a ton easier and you can spray upside down. Especially useful when painting the interior. It's another $100 by the time you buy the stuff and the adapter though.

What compressor do you have? The HVLP guns use a lot of air.

What he ^ said. I have a FLG3. 1.3 and 1.8 tips. Serves me well. 3M 200 micron PPS cups. I got the gun used so I saved a bunch. 1.3 is for final color. 1.8 is for thick primer. I use 6oz cups for most work and occasionally the next size up.

A few "tips".
Buy a Hobby Air. Use it when spraying anything. Plus you look like an astronaut!
Buy a 3M mask with #60926 filters. Date the filters. Keep it in a zip bag with desiccant when not used. Use it when not spraying but products are open. Replace filters annually or sooner if used often. Used filters are fine for dust but they loose the organic filtering in time and you won't know.
Buy a RTI Micro 1/4" regulator. Set and forget. Connect it at the gun.
HF red disposable filters are ok. Use one at the gun, between regulator and hose to catch water and oil. Date or mark it every use. Replace if it shows any signs of contamination passing through or difficulty blowing through it. They are cheap.
Buy big hose for HVLP. They use a lot of air. Don't use it for anything else. If the compressor has an oiler for tools, take it out so it can't contaminate the new hose.
Buy a box of syringes. Grainger sells the rubberless 50ml catheter tip. Excellent for measuring paint with zero waste. No rubber means no silicone contamination.
https://www.grainger.com/mobile/product/NORM-JECT-All-Plastic-Syringe-19G341
Rubber syringes are fine for measuring thin stuff like catalysts and reducers. I remove the plug and hold a finger over the tip. Product flows out easily.
I label the syringe and apply packing tape over the label and markings. Solvents will wipe the markings right off.
Read every thread Dan Horton posts especially how to Cut & Buff.
Find someone with a detailed blog on paint. Feel free to check mine out. There's are pages dedicated to fiberglass, paint and cut & buff.
 
Check out the new harbor freight gun, its about $200. The reviews from guys that paint with $1k guns is great. I just picked one up to repaint my rv6 with. Should have a review soon.
 
Check out the new harbor freight gun, its about $200. The reviews from guys that paint with $1k guns is great. I just picked one up to repaint my rv6 with. Should have a review soon.

HF's "Purple Gun" has worked well for me, for $17 or whatever. I've shot primer and finish coats with it. The $200 gun might be better.
 
I have used the cheaper purple gun for years. Even paintes our j3 cubs new gear legs and fabric with it but figured it was time to try this new gun out on a full paint job.
 
Harbor Freight Black Widow

Looks like two versions of the Harbor Freight Black Widow, same price. One is Model 56152 "HVLP" with a 1.7 mm tip and one is Model 56153 "HTE" with a 1.3 mm tip.

You have to click around to figure out tip sizes. When you click on view accessory parts, it shows some optional tip sizes, but seems to be different for HVLP versus HTE.
 
Back
Top