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gascolator

olderthandirt

Well Known Member
I just installed the gascolator today, but prior to installing I tried very hard to get it apart to inspect for debris...without success...no way was it coming apart...am I missing something here?? This is the standard gascolator that is blue aluminum that come with kit....Dick
 
It can be difficult to pull the bowl off the gascolator especially if there are any lines connected or plugs in the inlet and outlet ports since you will be trying to pull against a vacuum.

If you press open the drain valve it should come off. If the 0-ring is really stuck you can make a tool like this to give something to grip and gently wiggle the bowl off.
P1040403-M.jpg

You will need to figure out what works best for you, as you will be removing the bowl to check the screen before 1st flight and at each annual at a minimum.
 
Thanks Tony and Michael...I had all plugs out when trying to get bottom off...just no way was it coming off, I could see it move a little but would not drop down..may have to build rig like Tony suggests...Dick
 
I don't think its a vacuum problem, it is not a closed system. It just seems that the gascolator bowl is a VERY tight fit. I always have a struggle to get it off. As usual, Tony seems to have a handle on the problem (no pun! LOL) I think I will visit the plumbling section of the local ACE before my next condition inspection
 
I don't think its a vacuum problem, it is not a closed system. It just seems that the gascolator bowl is a VERY tight fit. I always have a struggle to get it off. As usual, Tony seems to have a handle on the problem (no pun! LOL) I think I will visit the plumbling section of the local ACE before my next condition inspection

It is both.
The bowl does seem to fit very tight on some of them and not as much on others, but I have seen instances that the bowl would not come off, but if the drain was either held open or removed altogether, the bowl pulled off easily.
 
John,

On the most recent gascolator removal the technique I used was to pull and then open the drain to let in some air before pulling again. The gascolator finally came off, and I could hear the air in rush as a pop each time I opened the drain. I believe it is a closed system since you shut the fuel valve prior to gascolator removal.

Rich
 
John,

On the most recent gascolator removal the technique I used was to pull and then open the drain to let in some air before pulling again. The gascolator finally came off, and I could hear the air in rush as a pop each time I opened the drain. I believe it is a closed system since you shut the fuel valve prior to gascolator removal.

Rich

Ah - you are correct! I forgot about the fuel valve!
 
We've just completed the Annual inspection on 'LV and once again ended up nursing the sprained hand after wrestling the gascolator bowl into submission. I won eventually but it put up a good fight - we must have got a tight 'un...

After the event, in a moment of sheer brilliance, I remembered the three strap wrenches I have in the tool box waiting for just such a job. I reckon it'll provide a bit of a rotational, downward, wiggle force sufficient to overcome the stiction.

Sticker applied to gascolator to remind oneself (when a year older) to try using a strap wrench.....
 
Gascolator News

This morning I closed the fuel valve in line took all screws out of gascolator and put air nozzle to the one fitting on side of gascolator, it blew off in my hand much like a cannon, I then put some anti sieze on rubber o ring and re-assembled it know that in future it will come off much easier or I will do this trick again...thank to all who suggested solutions..Dick
 
This morning I closed the fuel valve in line took all screws out of gascolator and put air nozzle to the one fitting on side of gascolator, it blew off in my hand much like a cannon, I then put some anti sieze on rubber o ring and re-assembled it know that in future it will come off much easier or I will do this trick again...thank to all who suggested solutions..Dick

Depending on what anti-seize you used, it could be a bad thing depending on the ingredients of the product used. Not sure, never heard of that being used.

The industry standard (what A&P's would use) is Dow Corning #4 (mechanics refer to it as DC4).
It is a silicone based grease more specifically designed to be used to lube/seal electrical connectors, boots, etc, but is often also used on seals/o-rings.
Aircraft spruce sells it
 
Replacing gascolator screws

During my 2nd annual I replaced all 4 gascolator screws by screws with Philipps head for better grip and secured them with appropriate Nord lock washers instead of safety wire.
The reason is that applying safety wire is a real pita in that confined space.
I am just not sure if the Nordlock washers can be considered as an alternative means of compliance in this particular application. Is that as safe as safety wire?
My plane is comparable to US EAB cert.
Thanks for your opinion on that.
Best Chris
 
Due to the fact that the prop hub and Matco brakes that came with my 12iS kit used Nord-Locks and no safety wire, I would say it’s an acceptable substitution.
 
From the Nord-Lock brochure:

“Reusing Nord-Lock
Nord-Lock washers can normally be reused. As with all fasteners, they should be inspected for wear before reassembly. Make sure that the washers are reinstalled correctly cam face to cam face. Nord-Lock recommends lubrication of fasteners before reuse in order to minimize changes in friction conditions.”

https://www.nord-lock.com/globalass...ure/nord-lock_product_brochure_washers_us.pdf

I’ve been led to believe if the ridges on the washers are still sharp, they can be reused.
 
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From the Nord-Lock brochure:

“Reusing Nord-Lock
Nord-Lock washers can normally be reused. As with all fasteners, they should be inspected for wear before reassembly. Make sure that the washers are reinstalled correctly cam face to cam face. Nord-Lock recommends lubrication of fasteners before reuse in order to minimize changes in friction conditions.”

I’ve been led to believe if the ridges on the washers are still sharp, they can be reused.
Thank you, Bob.
I stand corrected . . . will delete my previous post.
Please post the link to that brochure. I'll add it to my library.:)
 
As long as we’re talking about Gascolator, I have a question…. Has anyone found anything of significance when disassembling Gascolator for inspection?

There is a fine screen at the top that filters the fuel as it leaves the Gascolator heading toward the carburetors. Its my contention that any heavy particles will fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the bowl – away from the screen. When operating the quick-drain on the bottom of the bowl to take a fuel sample the particulates flush out into the fuel sampler. This is especially the case when running the electric fuel pump and fuel pressure is 2-3 psig.

Each time I have disassembled the Gascolator for inspection I have never found anything on the filter screen and the bowl is completely clean.

Am I pretty much seeing this like everyone else?
 
As long as we’re talking about Gascolator, I have a question…. Has anyone found anything of significance when disassembling Gascolator for inspection?

There is a fine screen at the top that filters the fuel as it leaves the Gascolator heading toward the carburetors. Its my contention that any heavy particles will fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the bowl – away from the screen. When operating the quick-drain on the bottom of the bowl to take a fuel sample the particulates flush out into the fuel sampler. This is especially the case when running the electric fuel pump and fuel pressure is 2-3 psig.

Each time I have disassembled the Gascolator for inspection I have never found anything on the filter screen and the bowl is completely clean.

Am I pretty much seeing this like everyone else?

Plus 1. If you have clean fuel service I never find anything. However, for carb engines, they might serve well to catch a slug of water that would otherwise be a problem in the float bowl. An airplane outside in the rain would be just one concern for that.

I think most with FI have installed just filters.
 
As long as we’re talking about Gascolator, I have a question…. Has anyone found anything of significance when disassembling Gascolator for inspection?

There is a fine screen at the top that filters the fuel as it leaves the Gascolator heading toward the carburetors. Its my contention that any heavy particles will fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the bowl – away from the screen. When operating the quick-drain on the bottom of the bowl to take a fuel sample the particulates flush out into the fuel sampler. This is especially the case when running the electric fuel pump and fuel pressure is 2-3 psig.

Each time I have disassembled the Gascolator for inspection I have never found anything on the filter screen and the bowl is completely clean.

Am I pretty much seeing this like everyone else?

Jim,
Same as what you have found, basically nothing ever has been seen in mine as well, at inspection times.
 
However, for carb engines, they might serve well to catch a slug of water that would otherwise be a problem in the float bowl. An airplane outside in the rain would be just one concern for that.

If you are using auto gas with ethanol (E10). The ethanol will help the water absorb into the fuel so the water will not show in a fuel test. The water, ethanol, fuel mix will run through the engine without any significant change. If the water contamination is excessive. above the saturation level, it will mix with the ethanol and both the ethanol and water will separate from the fuel.
 
>Has anyone found anything of significance when disassembling Gascolator for inspection?

I found a big leaf in there once, was all coiled up like a cocoon. I always wondered if it was the swirling action within the gascolator that caused that shape. I've found missing screens too. I think if one is sumping the gascolator regularly than it should be pretty clean in there.
 
I sometimes find a few small particles on the screen during annual (8 annuals so far). Recently a preflight sample was a bit cloudy (Probably water). Subsequent samples were clear and bright. I use unleaded gas with ethanol over 80% of the time and AVGAS about 20% or less.

The only significant contamination I ever found was on the screen of an SLSA a guy had just bought. I was helping him after he saw particulate in his preflight sample. The screen had a few small globs of thread sealant on it. It brought to mind the cause of the RV-10 crash in recent years. You definitely need to be aware of the issue of possible fuel system contamination when you apply sealant to pipe threads.
 
+1 for Nord Lock washers. #10 size, 8 of them from Aircraft Spruce.

That safety wire in there was not fun to deal with... got some bleeding holes in my fingers recently. Air hose nozzle with soft rubber cone shaped tip and compressed air works well.
 
I did the nord lock washers with socket head cap screws. Great idea from the original thread starter. Thanks for a great idea!
 
"Has anyone found anything of significance when disassembling Gascolator for inspection?"

One RV- found degraded Proseal particles, this plane did not have any inline filter upstream.

Another RV- found significant deposit of brass shavings, this plane had a SDS FI system on it but the electric fuel pumps were another brand & it was chewing its self to pieces. New SDS pumps installed and system lines flushed.

An F-1 Rocket - found white sludge deposit as well significant corrosion of the gascolator bowl, obviously triggered further inspection of other components in the fuel system. Resulted in replacement of fuel lines, selector valve, filter, gascolator, fuel pump, aux fuel pump, AND SERVO! Honestly don't know how that engine could run. I suggested that the tanks should be pulled & power flushed too, but owner didn't agree. Culprit- Ethanol & long term storage.

SuperStol- pretty much the same as the F-1, full system was either steam cleaned or replaced, priced out a Rotax carb (times 2) & fuel pump lately? Culprit- Ethanol & long term storage.

Other RVs & such, found small deposits of whatever, but in our climate rarely found water.

If the gascolator bowl is stubborn coming off, the o-ring might have swollen for some reason, best to replace it before putting it back together. In the case of Andair gascolators, I normally keep spare o-rings on the shelf.
 
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... If the 0-ring is really stuck you can make a tool like this to give something to grip and gently wiggle the bowl off.
P1040403-M.jpg

Do you happen to recall the thread specification for the portion of your tool that screws into the bottom of the bowl?

Thanks,
-dbh
 
As I recall, that is 1/8 pipe thread. I bought the short piece of threaded pipe at the hardware store.
 
Hi Tony,
I wonder if there might be a way to incorporate a "locking nut" to snug up against the bottom of the bowl? I know nothing about cutting threads so have no idea if any conflict with cutting both machine screw threads and pipe threads on the same end of a pipe.
My concern is that wiggling/yanking on the bowl with so much leverage from the handle end of puller tool could booger the threads of an expensive gascolator. Obviously you've had good luck with it and it is a great recommendation. I'm just trying to "Gorilla-proof" the design before I make one!
 
Regarding the use of compressed air...One note of caution...keep your face away from the gascolator bowl's exit path in case it becomes a high speed projectile. I watched a mechanic use this technique one time with shop pressure. The departing brake piston made a dent in the steel roof of our shop!
 
Earlier discussion in this thread was in regard to safety wiring the four bolts that hold the gascolator bowl in place. It is a tough job to twist safety wire in a tightly confined area. For this application, a single strand of safety wire can be used. See below...



 
Hi Tony,
I wonder if there might be a way to incorporate a "locking nut" to snug up against the bottom of the bowl? I know nothing about cutting threads so have no idea if any conflict with cutting both machine screw threads and pipe threads on the same end of a pipe.
My concern is that wiggling/yanking on the bowl with so much leverage from the handle end of puller tool could booger the threads of an expensive gascolator. Obviously you've had good luck with it and it is a great recommendation. I'm just trying to "Gorilla-proof" the design before I make one!

Dave, not sure I understand your concern. The threads in my gascolator (GAS-1) bowl are 1/8 pipe (NPT) not a machine screw thread size. I have used this method (did I mention "gently") many times without any damage to the bowl.

Van's no longer sells the GAS-1 (blue colored) gascolator so things might be different now.

If your situation is different, let me know so I can pull this picture off the forum!
 
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No,no Tony don’t pull anything down! And I apologize for not being clearer.
It’s a great tool and I’m glad it’s working for you and others.
I’m going to sleep on it some and maybe elaborate more in a day or so.
 
I replaced my quick drain with one that I can lock open so no suction builds as I remove the gascolator bowl, but it’s still a bit of a chore to get the thing off.
 
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