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  #61  
Old 07-08-2009, 12:12 AM
E. D. Eliot E. D. Eliot is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 1,016
Default Rattle Can Primer -

Anyone heard of TEMPO AVIATION PRIMER (A901)? Aviation mechanics at Long Beach Flying Club recommend this. It's about $7.35/can in case lots. Never heard of it but they really like it on new and old aluminum surfaces.

Thanks for the input.
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  #62  
Old 07-08-2009, 02:54 AM
Raden Raden is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NorCAL
Posts: 16
Default

I have recently used one can each of all the Tempo non chromate primers. The 901 is the Chromate Free version if I remember correctly. Per the can it had excelent corrosion properties but was only rated "good" for scratch resistance while the other Tempo primers were rated excellent. The Zinc Phosphate (701, yellow and 702 green) is also good but has a 48 hour complete dry time. The Zinc Oxided sucks (801, I think), and I had to soak the nozel in paint thinner to get it to spray, then it clogged often but I liked the dry time and scratch resistance specs on the can. Chief Aircraft has the 901 and 701/702 for about $6.95 a can. I think the Zinc Oxide version may be discontinued becuse I could only find yellow and it was hard to find someone who carried it, no wonder because it splattered and clogged.

My choice in primers ended up being the Krylon 0344 Tough Coat primer in green. For price it was the cheapest, about $3.50 a can. It fit my criteria exactly, easy to apply, non lethal compaired to zinc chromate, mil spec TIP-1757 corosion properties, dries fast and cheap. I got one can off ebay to try and liked it better than the Tempo products. It is hard to find as a single can. I eventually found it at www.Jeyco.com item #845255 and order a case of 12, but I think you can order less to try. It does go on a bit dark and sharpie marks are hard to see compaired to the yellow colors.

I have also used the AFS (now Stewart Systems) water based product but it required a paint gun and a seperate etching process. Good stuff if you dont mind the extra prep time, and it's neighbor friendly.

I have since switched to rattle cans for the easier use and the krylon works best for me.

Branden
RV-9 empannage
Thinking about switching to a RV-8 Fastback
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  #63  
Old 07-08-2009, 11:39 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 903
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by E. D. Eliot View Post
Anyone heard of TEMPO AVIATION PRIMER (A901)? Aviation mechanics at Long Beach Flying Club recommend this. It's about $7.35/can in case lots. Never heard of it but they really like it on new and old aluminum surfaces.

Thanks for the input.
According to the Aircraft Spruce website, it looks like A-901 has been replaced by A-701 Zinc Phosphate primer.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/zinc.php

I've used a lot of Tempo Zinc Oxide A-802 Green. It scratches pretty easily at first, but after a couple of weeks it is reasonably hard to scratch. It wasn't anywhere near as durable as epoxy primer, but it was a lot less hassle. I had some problems with clogging when using partially-full cans, so eventually I made sure I had enough parts to use an entire can at once. This seemed to solve the problem. I also tried to shoot it when the temperature was about 70 to 75 degrees. Spruce carries another brand of rattle-can primer called PTI. A friend of mine tried a few cans and didn't have any problems with clogging.
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RV-12iS Fuselage
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  #64  
Old 07-09-2009, 01:51 AM
E. D. Eliot E. D. Eliot is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 1,016
Default Primers - thanks

Thanks for the replies - I'll continue to look and learn - fortunately, there is no rush. I thought that I wanted to use Stewart Systems group of paints and I thought that they were non-toxic. In their demo of painting a C-150 wing, the painter suits up and wears a pesticide type face mask so I guess that their stuff is toxic too.
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  #65  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:51 PM
rv8eh rv8eh is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posts: 202
Default safety equipment

If you are misting anything that isn't air into the air around you, it's probably best not to get the stuff, whatever it is, inside you. Cleaner too.
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RV-8A, empennage/wings
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  #66  
Old 07-15-2009, 01:40 PM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 1,110
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels View Post
Has anyone thought about anodizing the majority of small parts, even wing ribs and bulkheads.
Interesting read... http://www.experimentalhelo.com/Anodizing&Fatigue.pdf

I wouldn't anodize any flight critical parts. As far as the spars go, my understanding is that Van's has done the math on this, but please somebody correct me if I am wrong.
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Livermore, CA | RV-7 | SOLD
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  #67  
Old 04-14-2021, 04:08 PM
MikeThePilot MikeThePilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Morinville, AB, Canada
Posts: 15
Default Tempo A-702 Prep

With much excitement I have finally purchased a full set of tools from a builder who sadly cannot build any longer. I hope to put them to good use, and will soon be ordering some practice kits, and hopefully an empennage next Fall or early 2022.

Because frankly I cannot afford to build a plan, if I am honest, I plan to spread the build over a very long period of time. Like many others who dream big but don't have the wallets to support it, I have done an immense amount of research on every topic I can and have planned out as much as I can.

On that note, I am heavily leaning toward priming with Tempo A-702 zinc phosphate spray cans, as I will only be priming small amounts spread over long periods of time (years probably). Everything I have read and seen indicates it only needs clean, dry aluminum.

1. However, I am assuming it is still prudent to do the same prep everyone describes for other primers to remove any grease or dirt, right?

2. Does anyone with experience know if it is necessary to clear with alumiprep then acetone, or just acetone?

Because my build will be spread over years, I am concerned about protecting from corrosion or damage in storage and therefore would like to paint or at least prime the outside skins / surface as I go. For example, my empennage pieces may become living room conversation pieces for several years before they become affixed to a fuselage.

3. I have noticed no one primes both sides of the skins before assembly - is there a reason for this other than potentially scratching it up during riveting?

4. Would it be better to assemble components and then spray a whole piece, like the horizonal stab, with primer?

5. I have also seen people say that for painting the plane they don't prime underneath the paint, presumably to save weight - would paint alone be adequate protection?

Thanks very much!
Mike
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  #68  
Old 04-14-2021, 04:52 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,373
Default Prep

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeThePilot View Post
1. However, I am assuming it is still prudent to do the same prep everyone describes for other primers to remove any grease or dirt, right?

2. Does anyone with experience know if it is necessary to clear with alumiprep then acetone, or just acetone?

3. I have noticed no one primes both sides of the skins before assembly - is there a reason for this other than potentially scratching it up during riveting?

4. Would it be better to assemble components and then spray a whole piece, like the horizonal stab, with primer?

5. I have also seen people say that for painting the plane they don't prime underneath the paint, presumably to save weight - would paint alone be adequate protection?

Thanks very much!
Mike
1. Yes. Read this. https://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com/p/paint.html
I'm no expert but spent alot of time studying surface prep for paint.
2. Read #1 again.
3. Because the paint shop can't accept reaponsibility for spraying over someone elses primer. Can't guarantee it was prepped or applied correctly. If you plan to be the painter, study the manufacturer data sheets on compatibilty. Read #1 again
4. Interior? Fay surfaces are most important so they should be treated before assembly. Exterior? Read #3 again. Search for Primer. Grab a six pack and start reading!
5. No. Exterior paints are designed to chemically bond to a primer. Usually the same manufacturer. The primer is designed to adhere to the metal. The whole system is designed to be applied within certain time frames so they chemically bond.
Sorry. I'm not being condescending. Just trying to keep it funny. Honestly, most quality primers and paints would probably stick just fine to a surface wiped with a wet paper towel, but why not kick it up a notch. As you can tell, surface prep is my pet peeve. I once had to strip a small section of top skin maybe 6"x 36". It was sprayed with P60G2 and Jet Flex SB. Took me all day with paint stripper, lacquer thinner and scotch brite to get it down to aluminum. Even then, there was still paint I couldn't remove.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #69  
Old 04-15-2021, 11:08 PM
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JesseS JesseS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 12
Default

Hi Mike,

I'm using the yellow Tempo primer on my 7A build. I just lightly go over the surfsce with maroon Scotch-Brite, clean very well with acetone and lightly prime. This stuff is not as durable as other popular primers like SEM, Dupli-Color, etc. But, it will provide excellent corrision resistance that the others can't quite match.

I've done my own 173hr salt fog test with the Tempo along with the other common options. The Tempo was the only one that prevented any corrosion. Not the most scientific test, but it was good enough for me. Granted, this was done with non-alclad material, so keep that in mind.

Primer test: https://www.jessesrv7a.com/primers-a-salt-fog-test/

With all that said, while just fine for internal areas that really won't be touched after closing, like all your tail parts, I will use a two-part primer for any wear areas, including fusealage.
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7A Empennage - In progress
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  #70  
Old 04-25-2021, 05:42 PM
Mark Jackson Mark Jackson is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston
Posts: 70
Default

Just out of curiousity, how many people acid etch and alodine their interior parts before applying primer?
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Houston, TX
RV-8 in progress/Mooney in the hangar.
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