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Van's IO-320 fixed pitch prep for installation

PilotjohnS

Well Known Member
Hi all,
I did a search but couldn't find what I was looking for.
I bought a new IO320 from Vans (D1A) from Vans and I am about to install it in my RV9A.

I have the following questions:
1) There is the rear governor oil line from the front to the rear governor pad. Since I am fixed pitch, do I disconnect and change the front and rear fittings to plugs, or leave as is?
2) the rear governor pad has a cover plate that is painted but it has nuts and lock washers with 6 washers per stud securing it. Is this good to go the way it is or should I change the nuts and lock wire, etc?
3) I am not using the tach drive since I have a Garmin magnetic pick up. How do i cover the tach drive? is there a cap I can buy? I assume I dont leave the plastic cap on.
4) There is a front plug on the crank. Is this a shipping plug that needs to be replaced, or is this OK as is?
5) Should I assume the inner crank plug is missing or punctured already?
6) and yes I know about the fuel spider needing a proper plug.

Of course, I could just switch to a CS prop and then this is all easy; but why be the same as everyone else?
 
Thanks Bruce

Thanks Bruce.
When you coming by again to look at my plane? You came by several years ago and did a tech review on my tail.

Any time you are near Hawthorne airport, stop by, I am on-field now finishing up.
 
Hi all,
I did a search but couldn't find what I was looking for.
I bought a new IO320 from Vans (D1A) from Vans and I am about to install it in my RV9A.

I have the following questions:
1) There is the rear governor oil line from the front to the rear governor pad. Since I am fixed pitch, do I disconnect and change the front and rear fittings to plugs, or leave as is?
2) the rear governor pad has a cover plate that is painted but it has nuts and lock washers with 6 washers per stud securing it. Is this good to go the way it is or should I change the nuts and lock wire, etc?
3) I am not using the tach drive since I have a Garmin magnetic pick up. How do i cover the tach drive? is there a cap I can buy? I assume I dont leave the plastic cap on.
4) There is a front plug on the crank. Is this a shipping plug that needs to be replaced, or is this OK as is?
5) Should I assume the inner crank plug is missing or punctured already?
6) and yes I know about the fuel spider needing a proper plug.

Of course, I could just switch to a CS prop and then this is all easy; but why be the same as everyone else?
I removed the oil line and put a steel plug with thread sealant (loctite 567) in the front. I removed the front crank plug and carefully pierced the back plug as there was no removable fitting in it (some back plugs have a fitting to remove) and then inserted a new front plug. The new crank plug needs to be seated with a few hits with a hammer. I put the round face of a ball peen against the center of the plug and hit the other side with a hammer a few times. It is easier than it sounds. I believe that I also removed the governor gear drive and installed a cover plate. Been flying for 9 years and I have over 700 hours on it. If I had to do it again I would likely leave the oil line in place as it will relieve the pressure between the inner plug and the end crank plug (the reason you pierce the inner plug) making a future conversion to CS easier.
 
Engine ready to mount

Hi John, easy answer to your questions is contact Vans. They have the answers. People may be hesitant to answer because it will be dangerous if you do something wrong or misinterpret the directions.
 
If the engine has a governor pad on, from the factory, it it comes setup for constant speed. I know you have stated you want to use the engine fixed pitch but do you think you will ever go constant speed? There is a way to keep the engine constant speed capable and still go safely fixed pitch without removing the front shaft plug and piercing the rear one. The front shaft plug that came in the engine would be fine to leave in if you go this route. This solution involves leaving the governor drive and plumbing on the engine. That is the best option if you think constant speed may be in your future.
If you are sure you will never go constant speed, you can remove the governor drive and the plumbing to the nose of the engine. Plug the port at the nose of the engine with either a flared cap or remove the fitting and install a pipe plug. Or if you prefer you can leave it all on the engine. In either case you will need to remove the front plug in the engine shaft and pierce the rear one and then install a new front plug and then you will be good to go fixed pitch.
If you are interested in ever going constant speed and want more info on that solution let me know and I will explain.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
 
HAA!!! Mahlon was quicker!!!

Talk to your engine builder and ask him!

I ordered a few years ago an IO-320, build for CS, but made for Fix Pitch.
How after 4 years of flying, I change to CS. The external oil line is still there, the governor pad is there and a cover (not just a plate, a cover with an internal oil path) with the many washers and nuts as you describe.

Now my engine builder tells that the oil was all the time also circulating and I only has to remove the front plug, install a CS propeller and remove the governor cover and install a governor onto the governor pad. No dealing with hole and plug inside the crank shaft.

You may want it to be like this, you never know when your mind change about propeller. Then you have a quick alteration and not must dealing with the inner plug!
 
Very helpful

Thanks for the replies, this has been very helpful. I will contact Vans to confirm but looks like I leave it the way it is an go fly! I imagine it was run at the factory the way I received it. It is nice to know that the line running to the back replaces having to pierce the inner plug.
 
John, you should confirm that your cover plate, on the governor drive is the one that has the milled recess to connect the port on the pad that would feed the plumbing to the front of the engine to the center of the drive where the governor drive gear is. There are two style plates one that has the milled recess and one that is totally flat without the recess. I believe that all engines shipped from Lycoming have the recessed plate now but I would confirm that either by asking them or looking at it. Better to be safe then sorry.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
 
Hi all,
I did a search but couldn't find what I was looking for.
I bought a new IO320 from Vans (D1A) from Vans and I am about to install it in my RV9A.

I had the similar question for my factory ordered IO360-M1B engine last week. I called Vans but they recommended that I called Lycoming instead.

After giving Lycoming my engine order details, the tech support came back with the instructions to remove the rear governor drive and installing the block-off plate. There was no instruction to pierce anything which was a good thing. My best recommendation is to call Lycoming and get its official instructions since your engine is still under warranty.
 
Thanks for the replies, this has been very helpful. I will contact Vans to confirm but looks like I leave it the way it is an go fly! I imagine it was run at the factory the way I received it. It is nice to know that the line running to the back replaces having to pierce the inner plug.

Just because the engine was run at the factory is NOT an indication that the set-up is correct. I have seen improperly set-up engines run for 40-50 hrs. before the front seal blew out.
 
Governor Coverplated

So i pulled my governor cover plate and here it is. It looks like mine has the milled grove as described. I will call Lycoming to confirm. Thanks for the help.

So I think I am good to go as is. And to go constant speed, it will be easy if I leave everything in place.

Edit: You all realize that this is probably gonna be a mute point. I am trying to make the plane light, but so far, all my weight reduction is in front of the CG. If I find myself needing a 25 pound crush plate for Weight and balance, I might as well buy one of those $8000 ballasts (a CS prop)
 

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SNIP
Edit: You all realize that this is probably gonna be a mute point. I am trying to make the plane light, but so far, all my weight reduction is in front of the CG. If I find myself needing a 25 pound crush plate for Weight and balance, I might as well buy one of those $8000 ballasts (a CS prop)

NOW You're Talkin'! :p

Love my CS prop!
 
So i pulled my governor cover plate and here it is. It looks like mine has the milled grove as described. I will call Lycoming to confirm. Thanks for the help.

So I think I am good to go as is. And to go constant speed, it will be easy if I leave everything in place.

Edit: You all realize that this is probably gonna be a mute point. I am trying to make the plane light, but so far, all my weight reduction is in front of the CG. If I find myself needing a 25 pound crush plate for Weight and balance, I might as well buy one of those $8000 ballasts (a CS prop)
Hey John,

I've got a nice light Catto prop and the lightweight SkyTec starter, and with an hour's fuel in worst W&B scenario, I have to reduce baggage max load from 100 lb. to 90 lb. Of course your #'s will be a little different, but I didn't find it to be much of an issue.

For Oshkosh, I ended up putting some heavy stuff just forward of the seats (hammer, tent spikes, etc.) to be on the safe side.

If my starter ever gives out, I'll probably replace it with a heavier one.
 
Lyc says I am good to go

On the advice of fellow VAFers, I called Lycoming and I am good to go with what I described. There is no need to pull the front crankshaft plug, no need to remove the pipe to the back and no need to puncture the inner crank plug. Since the governor plate has the milled slot, and the front crank plug was factory installed, I am good to go as delivered from Vans. I did pop the governor cover and put some permatex #2 sealant on it ( since i had it off to inspect for the milled slot), and i permatexed the vacuum pad gaskets when I installed my B$C pad mounted alternator ( no pulley or belts for me!). We are golden.

Thanks to all those who replied and helped me out; I am continuing to learn, even thou I don't want to sometimes.

And thanks Doug for the W&B data point. I am planning to stick with a Catto fixed pitch.
 
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