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  #11  
Old 08-12-2020, 06:12 PM
bbsdad bbsdad is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: tx
Posts: 86
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Did you try putting the struts in a bucket of ice. Just need to put the top in for an hour or two. Thay should slip right in.
Hope this helps.
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2020, 08:02 PM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Mountain view
Posts: 299
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbsdad View Post
Did you try putting the struts in a bucket of ice. Just need to put the top in for an hour or two. Thay should slip right in.
Hope this helps.
I'll likely do that for final assembly. I didn't want to get them in there right now and not be able to take em back out. Not quite ready to have to work around the gear legs from here on out.
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  #13  
Old 08-20-2020, 07:49 PM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Mountain view
Posts: 299
Default Disaster!

I was relocating the wiring conduit in the right wing and while moving the wing around the garage, it slid off the stand and dented the front skin pretty bad. An A&P buddy came by and said it might be salvageable, or at least worth trying to form it back into shape. He did say if it cracked during reforming to just go ahead and build a new tank. So this might be a waste of paying for a quickbuild wing set when I have to go back and redo the messy part anyway. It appears to have missed the rib, but it got both sides of it.


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Last edited by agent4573 : 08-20-2020 at 07:51 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-05-2020, 10:31 AM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Mountain view
Posts: 299
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A few more updates....

Here is the aftermath of the wing work. I had to pull the access panel off to get to the backside of the dent. I made up some wooden dowels and put them on the rivet gun in order to get the muscle power to knock the dent out. Can't get to all of it without ripping all the sealant out of tank, so this is its final form until we go to paint and will cover the rest with the proper bondo/epoxy that the painter recommends.



Got the brake lines in and routed for the cockpit side.



Still waiting on the andair fuel valve I ordered over 2 months ago, so there's still no fuel lines. That's kind of disappointing, but we moved on to other work. The throttle quadrants and lights came in from flyboys so we installed both of those.





Cut the flap position holes and installed the flap position sensor.



Got the pitch autopilot servo mount installed. Can't afford the actual servo yet, but at least I can get the metalwork done.
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  #15  
Old 10-05-2020, 10:39 AM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
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Location: Mountain view
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Laid out the rivet locations for the Titanium belly skin. It an 20x24" piece of 0.020 Ti bought from Mcmaster. It has 1/8" of Fiberfrax sandwiched between it and the primered skin. I made 2 drain slots on the rear of it for any water to drain out, but it sits so well against the belly skin that I'm not planning on sealing the edges or worrying about water ingress.








I've got 50 hours into shaping the canopy frame and trimming plexiglass at this point, and I figure I'm about halfway to being ready to glue everything together. The rest of this week will be spent doing final trimming and adjusting and hopefully I can glue it all together Friday or Saturday.







Engine gets shipped on tomorrow, so hopefully it will be here by this weekend or early next week. Time to move on to firewall forward work.
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  #16  
Old 10-13-2020, 08:32 PM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
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Engine is here!!! Also, the canopy is glued and curing.
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Last edited by agent4573 : 10-13-2020 at 08:41 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-08-2020, 06:50 PM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Mountain view
Posts: 299
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Been doing a whole lot of fiberglass work lately. I have zero previous experience with glass work, so this all took me way longer than it should have. Started with the horizontal stabs and elevators. Used the method from stu's aircraft factory of filling in the gap with some foam and then floxing it in before covering with micro and doing the final finish. I riveted the caps in place, then filled the small gap with some micro. After that got sanded I laid up a layer of glass and then more micro and high build primer. I'm not talented enough with paint prep to get these 100%, so I'm getting it to the high build primer point and calling it good enough to go to paint. I'll pay a professional to do the final body work on it before spraying it.




The left elevator was way under-balanced since I put the electric trim servo in, so I had to take care of that. I added a 4AN nutplate before I put the cap on and then closed out all the surfaces I could. Since it as 90% done now, I added washers until it was slightly over-balanced and then covered up all the washers with flox. This should get me close and after paint I can drill out some of the lead counterweight to get me a perfect balance.





Once the horizontal tail surfaces were done I moved on to the vertical and rudder. I decided to make the lower cap removable because I don't like having anything behind unremovable panels (tail light and wiring). After cutting it to clear the tail spring I didn't like the large gap.



So I cut the front cap off, removed 1/4" of material, and then glassed the two pieces back together. There was also an area near the rear that protruded out from the skin. While I was floxing in the FlyLED taillight mount ring, I filled in the last 1" or so of the cap. This allowed me to sand off the protruding section of fiberglass and now everything fits nice and smooth.


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  #18  
Old 12-08-2020, 07:12 PM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
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After the lower cap was done I moved on to the top of the rudder and vertical. These were in no way aligned and I really didn't like the look. After some suggestions in another thread that leaned away from just filling in 1/2" of micro and sanding, I ended up having to cut and reglass it into a closer shape. After that, it was closed out and then covered with micro and sanded into a better matching shape. It got more final sanding and some primer, but the pictures show how the shape took a major change.





So now it was time to fit the empannage fairing, and the supplied van's fairing just fit like ****. It took two of us to pull it into position, and even after that, there were areas with 1/8" - 1/4" gaps between the skin and fairing. We decided to toss it and make our own.






It still needs more sanding, but it fits a hundred times better than the supplied one. I ended up trimming the side skirts to the canopy before setting the final height, and that turned out to be a bad idea. Between the gaps I made up front, and the extra width I had in my canopy frame in order to let it open/close without catching the turtledeck skins, I'm basically backed into the corner of doing a fiberglass canopy skirt as well. So I started that....



Hopefully I can finish up the fiberglass work by the end of the year and move on to other things. I put the deposit down on the avionics panel today. We went with Aerotronics for the panel build. Our build slot is January, so I have a 2 months to finish fiberglass and get the engine hung and plumbed. I also got on sam james build list back in February and got word last week that the cowl, air box, and plenum were ready to ship. Hoping to have that here as early Xmas present to myself. Placed a bunch of orders with spruce for antennas, smoke system, oil accumulator, oil cooler and mounts, etc. Also got with TS flight lines and ordered stainless brake lines and all my fuel lines so I can get the pump and selector in and plumbed.

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Last edited by agent4573 : 12-08-2020 at 07:54 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-16-2020, 12:17 PM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
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Great pictures! Regarding the empennage fairing: Is it one piece or did you also make a piece that goes below the horizontal stabilizer?

I'm about where you are with the build (just starting to work on the engine) and am up in Livermore. If you ever want to get out to the boonies for a bit and check out the project, more than happy to show it.
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https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
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RV-7A (N12VD): Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass. Fuselage, wiring, and canopy complete. IO-360-M1B mounted. Cowl, baffles, induction mostly done.
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  #20  
Old 12-16-2020, 02:15 PM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
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I just did the upper piece. It wouldn't have been hard to do the lower as well, but the metal lowers fit pretty well after a trim, and I don't think I'll take them off the plane except for paint. The tail can be installed/removed with the lowers in place.

I'd like to take a look at your setup. PM sent with some contact details.
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