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Building in Cold Weather

dwollen89

Well Known Member
Good morning all! I’m just starting my build on an RV 7a. I’m wondering about building in the cold weather. My shop is a two stall garage attached to my house. It’s insulated and heated with a torpedo heater. I live in MN, which is cold on a whole new level. I don’t have the ability to heat my garage 24/7, so I plan to warm it up just prior to working in there. Does anyone see any issues with this as the aluminum will be getting warmed up and cooled down multiple times a week? My concerns are 1) condensation forming on the metal and 2) metal expanding and contracting repeatedly. To address the condensation issue, I’m considering using Corrosion X on occasion during the build. Any thoughts or experience with these issues? Thanks!
 
The continuous heating and cooling is not a problem. Just make sure that all aluminum, structure and skins are warm during riveting.

When I built my -6, it was in controlled environment and I still heated the skins additionally. Probably overkill, but my skins cam out drum tight. At the same time another gentleman just a mile or 2 from me riveted his skins in a cold garage (not cold by your standards) and his skins were VERY loose and wrinkled.
 
Something to consider is your tools will be cold soaked. Maybe your pre-heat will be enough but holding a cold bucking bar in your bare hand is not pleasant!

Also, condensation will form on your tools as well.

My garage isn't heated so I take a break from building over the winter. Slow build indeed. :)

Cheers,
 
yeah, those cold tools eventually wear you down. when it's was cold, late and feeling fatigued, I found myself wondering "why am I doing this".

feeling beaten down in this photo 10 years ago. since then, it's become much better. when you feel like I did, take a photo of yourself.

one thing I wish I would have done earlier is to add better lighting. my lights were not very bright and the cold temps made them even worse. I think working in dim lighting adversely affects my mood. even the day I threw acetone in my face was better than this day.

100_4455.jpg
 
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Good morning all! I’m just starting my build on an RV 7a. I’m wondering about building in the cold weather. My shop is a two stall garage attached to my house. It’s insulated and heated with a torpedo heater. I live in MN, which is cold on a whole new level. I don’t have the ability to heat my garage 24/7, so I plan to warm it up just prior to working in there. Does anyone see any issues with this as the aluminum will be getting warmed up and cooled down multiple times a week? My concerns are 1) condensation forming on the metal and 2) metal expanding and contracting repeatedly. To address the condensation issue, I’m considering using Corrosion X on occasion during the build. Any thoughts or experience with these issues? Thanks!

Aside from working in the cold with cold tools, your consideration of Corrosion X is interesting. To be certain, I am an advocate of C-X and the sacrificial anode it provides in the galvanic action of corrosion, and I think wiping down your idle parts once a year is fine and should be sufficient. There are couple things to consider though; first, if you're going to apply C-X to your parts, an obvious thing is remove the blue plastic first...second, C-X needs to be dried about 6 months prior to attempting to prime/paint as it settles into the metal on a molecular level and will inhibit bonding. So... if you're one of those "gotta prime everything" guys, you may want to reconsider using C-X. If you only prime the parts where dissimilar metals contact, then using MEK, or equivalent prior to priming, then letting completely dry should work as well.
 
Moisture issues too

Torpedo heaters can cause CO issues.

Torpedo heaters directly vent to the area that they are heating. I’m no chemist, so don’t ask for a chemical equation, but moisture is a byproduct of combustion. If you leave it on all day for a good long work session, it may cause condensation and even a bit of rain in your garage. Years ago, I had an insulated but unheated garage in Eau Claire, Wi, so not that far from you, and I witnessed this with a torpedo heater.

Do you have an inside space you could do deburring or small projects in this winter?
 
Unit Heater

I tried space heaters in my garage during my 7A slow build in southeast WI, but ended up having a Reznor unit heater (propane) installed near the ceiling, vented thru the roof. Several other quality unit heater companies, including Modine. Mine had a simple wall mounted thermostat. I needed a box fan on the floor near the garage door, aimed at the ceiling to circulate the heat, which liked to stay on the ceiling.

In my unheated WI hangar, while working on the engine install, there were times where I had a propane torpedo heater at my back, and a radiant electric heater on my front, but as other pointed out, the tools and aircraft/engine parts just don't warm up, so your hands and fingers take a beating.
 
Dehumidifier

I took over 15 years to build my -4, some in a basement, some in garage, some in hangar. I always ran a portable de-humidifer on MAX. Never a corrosion issue. I also work in heavy aircraft overhaul, which is seldom in controlled environment. I am not a fan of using any corrosion-X or similar product during builds, as you will risk having bleed-out in paint and any other finishes you apply if it gets in the wrong spots and you don't get it clean . The de-humidifier saves plane parts, and tools as well. The wick type Kero heaters will be much cleaner and tolerable than a torpedo..add a few old-school quartz lights and you will be warm enough I think. The torpedo will depress you in short order.
 
Not All “building” is “building”

In addition to a lot of great ideas and thoughts in earlier posts, since you are just getting started, you probably have not yet discovered that a lot of “building” is not done in the shop[ it is done at your desk, shopping for stuff and finding answers to issues on the internet, or drawing electrical schematics and studying avionics manuals. In other words, about a third to half of your total build hours are actually doing research and planning.

If you think ahead, you can make clever use of your winter time to get a lot of this stuff done when it is just to absolutely bloody cold to be in the workshop. In other words, progress doesn’t have to stop because you’re not driving rivets!

As someone mentioned, have an indoor space that you can use to flute ribs, debur holes, and assemble small components - lots of airplane building is not done with or on the big parts - it is component work. Build lots of small components in the winter in your basement, and then when it gets warm enough to work on your main shop, you’l be that much farther ahead.

I grew up in the Twin Cities, working on airplane - I understand the cold! We used to have to turn off the shop heater when spraying dope to avoid explosions, and boy, did the hangar cool down quick when it was below zero outside!

Paul
 
Thanks everyone for the responses! The support of the Vans family is largely why I chose Vans instead of one of the other kit planes available.

I like the idea of doing the deburring and such in the basement. Especially since I'm just starting the tail section, so everything is relatively small comparatively speaking. Maybe if I reserve those sessions for the really cold days (ie when your nose sticks shut when you breath days, lol) that would cut down a lot on the misery.

I'll look into some propane heaters to see if there is another option to heat the garage 24/7 with an external tank. I have an addition between the main part of my house and the garage that doesn't have a basement....so there is no way to run a gas line without doing a major renovation. A stand alone tank could be an option....
 
I know a really good realtor in south Florida...........

Oh you have no idea! I have 11 years left in my job and then I'm pulling up stakes and heading to Florida or possibly Texas. Aside from the ridiculous cold, the high taxes and political environment here leave a LOT to be desired.
 
SNIP… To address the condensation issue, I’m considering using Corrosion X on occasion during the build.

Corrosion X is for those airplanes not properly primed - and a very poor substitute at that.

Even in winter as you fabricate and fit parts, you can just put them aside waiting for a good prime day and the smaller parts you can rattle can spot prime before riveting. I suspect that with your longer and colder winter you will be able to make a nice big prime pile - and not loose much build time efficiency.

On tools, take them in the house at the end of each session.

Carl
 
My shop is also attached to my house and well insulated. I can raise its temperature several degrees by tying open the connecting door and using a fan to blow room air into the shop.

For more serious heating, though, I have some 220 V radiant heaters. Yes, I had to put in 220 but my compressor needed that anyway. The heaters were not expensive at McMaster. I found that for my particular situation, one of the four heaters is more than sufficient. In extreme conditions I might have two or even four on. They are 3 kw each, and yes, they do run up the electric bill.

We have a program called "Windsource," through XCEL Energy, which obtains enough windpower to make up my usage, so the green aspect is covered. Yes, that power doesn't necessarily come to me but it's a direct offset.

Dave
 
I understand your concept of "true cold", thanks to building in a hangar which really amounts to nothing more than a pole barn, with snow blowing in the eaves and with the 40' wide sliding doors having a foot-tall gap beneath them. There's no way to heat a hangar like that, so I just toughed it out for six years. Brrrrrrrrrrrrr!

I may have missed it but I don't think I've seen any suggestions yet around the value of portable electric radiant heat. We use one of these devices in our EAA chapter hangar (similarly unheated) and it helps tremendously. Leave a tool lying atop the engine with that radiant heater beaming down on it and both will be warm to the touch.

Condensation is a real problem in an unheated space. It's even worse in a workspace which is subject to intermittent heat - the heating and cooling cycles make for lots of opportunities for condensation to form on everything, especially your tools.

In my impossible-to-heat hangar I found I could get away with a kerosene torpedo heater blowing on my back. Inside the airplane a milkhouse or similar electric heater could make the workspace tolerable. Neither of these solutions is ideal. If you have a fully enclosed and insulated workspace, put proper heat in it and be done with it.
 
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Basement build, garage assemble.

Some thoughts;
If you can build the empennage in the basement, then you can also build the flaps and ailerons in the basement. Same for the Instrument panel.

If you can get a finished wing(minus flaps, ailerons,and wingtips) out of your basement, then you could do everything but the fuselage in the basement in the coldest months. You can even do the initial install of the flaps, ailerons and wingtips.

Using your basement might be louder in the living areas though. And fiberglass work might be better off in the garage for dust etc

If you can get multiple kits going at once, you can use the garage in the less cold weather(summer) for the fuselage, firewall forward, and final assembly of the wings and empennage to the fuselage.

With an 8 month lead on a Slow Build fuselage, If you order it now, that would get it to you mid June...

Chuck
 
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I did probably 60% of my build in an unheated detached garage in Duluth, MN so I know your pain. The below worked well for me. Full disclosure I was in my early 20's and enjoy cold weather so maybe more cold tolerant than most.

Most important is dress:
-A good and comfortable pair of winter boots, to me once my feet get cold I'm done.
-I'm a waterfowl hunter so I had good insulated overalls and parka already, but you can probably find similar for a better price without the "camo tax".
-mechanic's brand gloves are my go to: I used both the original (better dexterity) and insulated (warmer).

The goal is dress to be comfortable in the ambient temp, unless you're going for full insulation and heating it's easier to dress for the temp than it is to get the temp up.

Shop:
I used a portable propane sunflower heater and an electric radiant heater on the workbench. Radiant is important as heating the air is a losing battle. others have already pointed out the importance of ventilation if using an unvented heater. I only used my propane heater about 50% of the time, the electric was always turned on 1st thing. tools I knew I would use were on a tray right in front of it.

To me if I was dressed for the ambient temp, the only thing that would get cold is my hands, as you often have to wear thin or no gloves for dexterity. my work cycle during winter was work until hands got cold then sit by the heater until they warmed up, while re-reading the instructions and drinking a warm beverage.

Honestly, I enjoyed working more in the winter than the very hot days in the summer.
 
Colorado

No problem. 7500' Colorado. I build in a two car attached garage. Big Buddy propane heater fed by a 25lb tank. Several back up tanks in storage.
On cold days, I turn it on first thing. I turn it off when it hits 60 in the shop. Usually before I even go out to work in the shop. I have a CO detector. Never registered anything. In fact, I just replaced it because it was end of life. Temp and humidity also monitored. Humidity is always below 50% but it's Colorado. I've done all the work including paint regardless of the season.
 
Torpedo heaters are ok for occasional use, but they are loud and stinky. Others have also mentioned the ventilation issue.

A Modine style gas heater is only a few hundred at Fleet Farm. Often you can find them used. You can run a gas line through the ceiling. This will be a worthwhile investment over the span of your build.

Finally, as others have mentioned consider the basement.
 
Direct Vent is the way to go

You really want to get a direct vent propane heater. You can get a heater and tank for probably $1000. Well worth it. Very easy to install and not too bad to run. I would get the 100lb tank - a little hard to take in to get filled but worth not having to go all the time with small tanks. Or have a company bring a large tank out and then they come fill it cheaper than you can take it in to get filled.
Digging a trench to the garage may end up being less work than having to get tanks filled!

Let me know if you need help sizing or picking one out.
 
Warm garage

I used to visit my uncles in Montreal in the winter. The water heater was in the garage and they plumed a car radiator on the outlet side with a fan behind it. Nice and warm and did not steel heat from the sinks.
 
Thanks again everyone for the responses! You are an amazing bunch. I think the basement is the best option for me at this point. My basement is unfinished and as long as I don't assemble things to the point that they are too large to egress, that sounds like my best option. I'll have to reserve summer for the final assembly.

Funny story, I flew into a small airport in central Minnesota earlier this year. I ran into a guy that had a really nice RV6A. We got to talking and he told me that he built the airplane in a single bedroom apartment in dinky town in downtown Minneapolis, MN. I thought he was full of sh#t, until he showed me pictures. He said that he used scuba tanks to drive his rivet gun because an air compressor would be too loud. They carried the fuselage and wings out of the main living room window because they wouldn't fit out the door. True story! I guess if he can build a plane in his one bedroom apartment, then I can do the tail feathers in my basement, haha.
 
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I understand your concept of "true cold", thanks to building in a hangar which really amounts to nothing more than a pole barn, with snow blowing in the eaves and with the 40' wide sliding doors having a foot-tall gap beneath them. There's no way to heat a hangar like that, so I just toughed it out for six years. Brrrrrrrrrrrrr!

I may have missed it but I don't think I've seen any suggestions yet around the value of portable electric radiant heat. We use one of these devices in our EAA chapter hangar (similarly unheated) and it helps tremendously. Leave a tool lying atop the engine with that radiant heater beaming down on it and both will be warm to the touch.

Condensation is a real problem in an unheated space. It's even worse in a workspace which is subject to intermittent heat - the heating and cooling cycles make for lots of opportunities for condensation to form on everything, especially your tools.

In my impossible-to-heat hangar I found I could get away with a kerosene torpedo heater blowing on my back. Inside the airplane a milkhouse or similar electric heater could make the workspace tolerable. Neither of these solutions is ideal. If you have a fully enclosed and insulated workspace, put proper heat in it and be done with it.

I think we should acknowledge the sacrifices and difficult working conditions some have persevered through. The cold in Canada is no joke.
 
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sometimes a hair dryer can be positioned so you can use it on your hands while you work.
get an electric frying pan for $5 from goodwill. use it as your tray for tools. magic.
consider a small shop insulated in your hangar. i built a 10x10 and it heats easily with 1 or 2 electric space heaters. there's a lot of the build that can be done in there, at a bench, and you are getting warm at the same time.
i live in n. wi so there's a lot of time when it's just too cold but with this setup 20 deg. is doable with no windchill.
 
You can build in the basement

If you have a straight shot up the stairs, you can do the whole empennage in the basement. If not, the horizontal stabilizer is pretty long, but you can do other parts. I’m not sure if you have the other kits, but you can also build the seat frames.

As for heat, if you’re like me, you’re probably considering you options there. Others have recommended direct vent, that again vents to the workspace, and moisture is a byproduct of combustion. A friend of mine had one, who is an avid woodworker, and had problems with it in regards to moisture. Though I’d say not as bad as my torpedo heater setup. Not the best for an area that will have heat cycles where you don’t want your tools and airplane to get condensation on it. I eventually installed a mr heater brand furnace in that garage and heated it when I planned on working. There was no issue with moisture after that, as you know, the air gets pretty dry around these parts in the winter. Something to think about for next year, you can stay busy in the basement if you’re just getting going. If you run out of metal parts, it’ll take some time to draw yourself an electrical schematic, trust me on that one.
 
I think the basement is the best option for me at this point. My basement is unfinished and as long as I don't assemble things to the point that they are too large to egress, that sounds like my best option. I'll have to reserve summer for the final assembly.

This mirrors my approach. My unfinished basement is serviced by the HVAC system in the house so it stays in the mid 60's all year and has great lighting. I have a standard 30" door leading to steps up to grade level which is sufficient to move all of the tail pieces and even both wings (sans control surfaces and tips) up to the garage when the time comes. I actually decided to rivet together the aft tailcone and fuselage center section in the basement with an understanding that I'll need to temporarily remove the door and its framing lumber to get the opening back to the raw size in the concrete wall, but that inconvenience is worth all the extra time I'll be able to spend working on the project in the comfort of my basement shop. Looking ahead in the plans, I'll be able to actually construct the whole lower part of the fuselage from firewall to tail in the basement, then disassemble everything and prep for riveting. Final assembly will have move out to the garage at that point. I'm considering ways to help make the garage as comfortable as the basement but that's 6-12 months away still. Overall, I've been pretty surprised as how much of the project can be completed in a small space.
 
I built a couple cars and two planes in my Chicago garage. I used a kerosene heater but only enough to knock the edge off and not fully warm the garage, except when painting. I eventually got a ceiling mounted heater that uses an exchanger; basically a furnace.

First, if you try to maintain 60* with a kerosene heater, you will definitely get headaches from the CO. Second, I got a lot of rusting on my tools after one winter with a fair amount of heater use. These things throw a LOT of moisture into the air and once the garage cools down, the dew point drops radically and it has to go somewhere. Find a traditional heater on Craigs List! They are only $4-500 new.

Larry
 
FWIW, I completed my build in Quebec City... Needless to say, it is cold here in winter...
What I did to work through winter is equip the hangar with a remote/programmable thermosthat controling the electric heaters.
10 C (50 F) from 16:30 to 05:30 and 18 C (65 F) between that.
Get a portable space heater and place it generally where you're working.
Good, confortable warm shoes is a must, a sporting store will provide top notch cold weather, long legged and sleeve underware to wear beneath your work clothes. A light fleece jacket will be appreciated.
It is extra cost to get the special clothes and to run the electrical heaters.
I just bit the bullet, otherwise I lose a good 3-4 months of work/year...

A reasonably insulated garage would be cheaper to heat of course. And doing all you can in-house helps. Just don't underestimate the amount of metal dust and shavings that you will produce deburring, filing, drilling etc.

If humidity is a concern, use a dehumidifier, the bonus is that will produce a bit of heat while functionning.
Good luck !!!
 
Others have recommended direct vent, that again vents to the workspace, and moisture is a byproduct of combustion.

No, the direct vent style vents out the wall it is mounted on. It does not use a vertical vent pipe up through the roof.

Combustion air is also drawn in through the same hole in the wall, and both cools the exhaust air, and gets pre-heated before it enters the sealed combustion chamber.

https://images.thdstatic.com/produc...-williams-gas-wall-heaters-2203821-e1_600.jpg
 
My mistake

No, the direct vent style vents out the wall it is mounted on. It does not use a vertical vent pipe up through the roof.

Combustion air is also drawn in through the same hole in the wall, and both cools the exhaust air, and gets pre-heated before it enters the sealed combustion chamber.

https://images.thdstatic.com/produc...-williams-gas-wall-heaters-2203821-e1_600.jpg


My I was thinking of those free standing ones… at any rate, make sure you get one that vents combustion air outside. Anything else will lead to increased moisture.
 
Good morning all! I’m just starting my build on an RV 7a. I’m wondering about building in the cold weather. My shop is a two stall garage attached to my house. It’s insulated and heated with a torpedo heater. I live in MN, which is cold on a whole new level. I don’t have the ability to heat my garage 24/7, so I plan to warm it up just prior to working in there. Does anyone see any issues with this as the aluminum will be getting warmed up and cooled down multiple times a week? My concerns are 1) condensation forming on the metal and 2) metal expanding and contracting repeatedly. To address the condensation issue, I’m considering using Corrosion X on occasion during the build. Any thoughts or experience with these issues? Thanks!

I did probably 60% of my build in an unheated detached garage in Duluth, MN so I know your pain. The below worked well for me. Full disclosure I was in my early 20's and enjoy cold weather so maybe more cold tolerant than most......

Where abouts in MN are you gents? Hopefully getting on the RV bandwagon next year. It would be cool to see some work in progress and finished aircraft.
 
I managed to build my 9A in just over 3 years because of my 'do something every day' agreement with myself. This was difficult to accomplish on the cold Alberta winter days. My insulated detached garage worked fairly well with a couple of 110V radiant heaters and one infrared heater, usually could get a 20C increase over outdoor temperatures. I would not work much in the garage unless it was at least 0C inside. Anything that could be done indoors was done indoors. The biggest deterrent to working in the cold was having to cross the backyard to get to the tools that were too cold to handle.

One thing that helped me was a remote thermometer that I could check garage temperatures to see when and how much heat I needed to start up. Cold weather building is no joke, and it really plays havoc on building momentum, but the end result of having an amazing plane makes it worth it.
 
You're building a very costly aircraft and it's supposed to be fun and rewarding.
Forget the heaters that don't vent outside but better yet put an electric heater in your garage like this. I leave mine set around 50°F and turn it up to about 60° to 65° when I'm working. In my area that equates to about $35/Month averaged for the year.
 
Hi,

I live in Ottawa, Ontario, and spent 4 winters building my 8 in a -sort-of- insulated double car garage.

I heated the space with this: (the larger model)

https://cozyheaters.com/direct-vent-wall-furnace/

I mounted the thermostat by the house entry garage door, I got my natural gas line extended to the garage to fuel it. No electric required, although I did place a small oscillating fan about 24 inches above the heater to blow the hot air around.... I kept the garage at about 15C when working, 10C when not and my gas bill increased about 2-300 bucks per heating season to run it.


Your local distributor is here:


WINNELSON ALBERT LEA – #781
640 E. 11TH ST.
ALBERT LEA, MN 56007
Phone: 507-373-1155


Regards,

Chris
 
I couldn't bear the thought of another winter building in the cold hanger. The RV-10 build was nice, building at the house in a climate controlled 32' x 56' workshop. I chose to build the -9A at our second home since I retired and spend most of my time there.
A cold Michigan winter in the hanger is bad, but standing on the frozen concrete floor for the day does me in. My solution is a 12' X 24' X 8' high heated space that will later serve dual purpose as my paint booth. Simple 2" X 4" construction 4', OC and some purlin's 4' OC provided more that enough to support the string reinforced plastic sheeting. Poly plastic sheeting on the cement floor for a vapor barrier topped with 1/4" polystyrene fan fold insulation, then 7/16" OSB and finally covered with house wrap insulates me from the cold cement floor. Big 8' wide barn door allows the plane, without wings attached, to roll in and out as needed. I have a vented Reznor 40,000 btu propane garage furnace to provide heat as needed that is thermostatically controlled. Carbon monoxide detector installed also. Wired with LED lighting and a couple duplex outlets. The ceiling is framed for six 16' X 20" air filters for a down draft paint booth. Neither electric nor heat is left ON when I am not there. The framing is all assembled with screws so most everything can be re-cylcled into another project when I am done with the painting.
 

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I couldn't bear the thought of another winter building in the cold hanger. The RV-10 build was nice, building at the house in a climate controlled 32' x 56' workshop. I chose to build the -9A at our second home since I retired and spend most of my time there.
A cold Michigan winter in the hanger is bad, but standing on the frozen concrete floor for the day does me in. My solution is a 12' X 24' X 8' high heated space that will later serve dual purpose as my paint booth. Simple 2" X 4" construction 4', OC and some purlin's 4' OC provided more that enough to support the string reinforced plastic sheeting. Poly plastic sheeting on the cement floor for a vapor barrier topped with 1/4" polystyrene fan fold insulation, then 7/16" OSB and finally covered with house wrap insulates me from the cold cement floor. Big 8' wide barn door allows the plane, without wings attached, to roll in and out as needed. I have a vented Reznor 40,000 btu propane garage furnace to provide heat as needed that is thermostatically controlled. Carbon monoxide detector installed also. Wired with LED lighting and a couple duplex outlets. The ceiling is framed for six 16' X 20" air filters for a down draft paint booth. Neither electric nor heat is left ON when I am not there. The framing is all assembled with screws so most everything can be re-cylcled into another project when I am done with the painting.

nice paint booth. you can add an inlet filter high in the booth and pull negative pressure inside the booth by routing ducts to the outside and placing the exhaust fans outside. in this way you will not have any overspray inside the hangar. none! add a door kick plate to cover the holes when you a done. painted in the dead of Winter with PPG Concept. warning: it's a big effort to paint your plane.

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IMG_20151125_212336.jpg


IMG_20160117_193538.jpg
 
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nice paint booth. you can add an inlet filter high in the booth and pull negative pressure inside the booth by routing ducts to the outside and placing the exhaust fans outside. in this way you will not have any overspray inside the hangar. none! add a door kick plate to cover the holes when you a done. painted in the dead of Winter with PPG Concept.

That's my plan Steve. What fans did you use and where did you get them? Duct size? Were two fans enough to provide the negative pressure? Looks like the perfect solution to the last part of the paint booth puzzle. Thanks!
 
nice paint booth. you can add an inlet filter high in the booth and pull negative pressure inside the booth by routing ducts to the outside and placing the exhaust fans outside. in this way you will not have any overspray inside the hangar. none! add a door kick plate to cover the holes when you a done. painted in the dead of Winter with PPG Concept.

That's my plan Steve. What fans did you use and where did you get them? Duct size? Were two fans enough to provide the negative pressure? Looks like the perfect solution to the last part of the paint booth puzzle. Thanks!

those are harbor freight fans. I'll make you a good deal on these but if you are far away it might not be worth the shipping costs.

I operated the fans on separate circuits for reliability. they pulled just enough. I needed to use two.

IMG_20151227_130617.jpg


I changed the booth inlet filters one time so I used two sets of these.

IMG_20151226_221813.jpg


I placed six black coupons around the booth to prove I didn't have any overspray inside the hangar. you don't want to have a nice paint job but damage other adjacent planes with overspray. If you damage other planes you have failed.

IMG_20151228_193225.jpg


**********

better to have two helpers. then we went for pizza. good memories for me!

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