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RV-8 GEAR LEGS

C

CHEROKEE66

Member
I Have a question for anyone out there, Vans recomends to re-tourque the gear legs after 10 hours and then after every 50. When I mounted them the first time there were no vent lines, cables, panel and wires in place, how hard is it going to be to re do after I am flying? Is there some trick I have not noticed? Any advice in this would be appreciated. Thanks George Z still building.
 
I recommend this mod while your building. Can easily be done after flying also. But easier in the shop.

IMG_3856_small.JPG
 
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Well, it's a brutal experience. Route your wiring and tubing to allow the best access possible. Also, schedule a chiropractor visit after each gear bolt torque session. Someone has probably come up with a better hardware solution that is easier to deal with but mine are bolted up per plans...at least as they were drawn up back in the late 90's. I had to kludge up a socket and a short piece of box wrench handle into a uniquely angled affair to access the outboard nuts. I also had clearance issues with the nuts that affix the screws coming in from the side skins right at the gear bolt nuts. I removed them entirely and installed some mega pop rivets found at a local military surplus store. That was the only way I could get a wrench on those $@#%* nuts.

Once tightened up after the first fifty hours, they haven't loosened up again since. Make sure you really debur and clean out any chips in this gear attach area so you don't lose any initial torque from scrunching down on bits of metal.

Have fun. :D
 
Brian Denk said:
Well, it's a brutal experience. Route your wiring and tubing to allow the best access possible. Also, schedule a chiropractor visit after each gear bolt torque session. Someone has probably come up with a better hardware solution that is easier to deal with but mine are bolted up per plans...at least as they were drawn up back in the late 90's. I had to kludge up a socket and a short piece of box wrench handle into a uniquely angled affair to access the outboard nuts. I also had clearance issues with the nuts that affix the screws coming in from the side skins right at the gear bolt nuts. I removed them entirely and installed some mega pop rivets found at a local military surplus store. That was the only way I could get a wrench on those $@#%* nuts.

Once tightened up after the first fifty hours, they haven't loosened up again since. Make sure you really debur and clean out any chips in this gear attach area so you don't lose any initial torque from scrunching down on bits of metal.

Have fun. :D
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Second Brian's comments, including the swearing!!! I'm at ~906 hrs and I probably ought to check them again one of these days. But they were still tight after the second retorque several hundred hours ago.
 
I've started the mod today,, cut the metal out and filed it. How wide and long is the plate? I figured 4 inches by 17.5 (the hole is 3 x 16.5)? what alloy did you use for the plate? I figure #8 screws is what you used? Thanks for the awesome pics, it makes the mod much easier.

M
 
PLate size? I dunno. Large enought to cover the hole and not hit the round head rivets along the box edges. As mentioned in the web page, its .125 alum.
 
THNAKS

I Guess I should have asked this before I ran most everything else, opening up the gear box like that would have really simplified a lot of struggling with vents and control cables. Thanks for the ideas, George Z
 
Kahuna said:
PLate size? I dunno. Large enought to cover the hole and not hit the round head rivets along the box edges. As mentioned in the web page, its .125 alum.
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Is the part that you riveted with the "round head rivets" you mention, the stock .040 pc cut and nutplates attached with the .125 only for the cover?

I'm at the point where I need to rivet the stock-lightening-holed-.040 pc to the 802 E's & F's but I'm thinking I can cut the big opening in it then drill and install the nutplates later after the fuse is flipped and out of the jig.
 
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