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  #1  
Old 03-09-2006, 08:13 AM
TShort TShort is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
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Default Tank dimple dies

For those of you who used the special tank dimple dies, where did you use them?
Are they intended for the substructures (ribs, stiffeners, etc) on the tanks with normal dimples in the skin, or are you supposed to dimple everything (skin included) with the special dies?

Thanks
Thomas
-8 wings
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  #2  
Old 03-09-2006, 08:39 AM
arffguy arffguy is offline
 
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Location: Elk Grove, CA
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Default

My understanding is that they are to be used anywhere that pro-seal goes in between a joint. I have not sealed my tanks yet. With the service bulletin I guess my laziness has finally paid off

Anybody else have input?
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2006, 08:55 AM
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Brockster Brockster is offline
 
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Location: Lockport, NY
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Becareful with tank dimple dies. A friend of mine building a 7 used them on his tank skins and was not pleased with the results. The tank dimple die makes a slightly deeper dimple to supposedly allow for sealant around the rivet. This deeper dimple also causes the hole for the rivet to enlarge more than a regular die does. When he was done riveting the tank he had a dozen or more rivets that actually could be rotated in the hole. The rivets were bucked correctly having proper shop height and dimensions but were still loose. It is possible the holes could have been slightly elongated from drilling because the skin is radiused in that area and perfect alignment of the holes is not always attainable, but I think the regular dies give you a margin of error to work with where the tank dies don't.The shank of a rivet will only expand so far. I used the regular dies on my tank and did not have a problem. I would experiment first on scrap pieces and measure the difference between regular and tank dies and also using the proseal, if you are really set on using them. I believe Vans would have specifed using the tank dies if it was really necessary.
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2006, 09:32 AM
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Davepar Davepar is offline
 
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For a second there I thought your tank dimples had passed away.

I used tank dimple dies on my tanks. I think they were from Cleaveland. I don't think it really makes that much difference. Next time I wouldn't bother with them. I had no issues whatsoever with holes being too large.

Dave
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2006, 10:36 AM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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I have used them on most of the sub-structure with no issues so far.

Tank Die on the right... you can see the slight difference in size.
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2006, 02:59 PM
RV10Man RV10Man is offline
 
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Default re:-10 tanks

I used the tank dimple dies on everything for the tanks on my RV10. I didn't "final drill" any of the skins or ribs. Just dimpled. I have both tanks completed & attached to the wings now. I filled both of them completely full of gasoline, let them sit for 2-3 days & had no leaks on either tank.

Marshall Alexander
RV10 wings/ailerons
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2006, 04:42 PM
treeez treeez is offline
 
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I used the tank dies on the ribs of my tanks and was very pleased with the results. The first few holes seemed a little large so I re checked my squeezer settings. With the piston fully extended, I fit a piece of sheet the same thickness as the rib between the flat areas of the dies and adjusted the max closure to be just a snug fit. That way I didn't over dimple the hole. Just my two cents worth of advice, Mike
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  #8  
Old 03-10-2006, 10:02 AM
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Brockster Brockster is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV10Man
I used the tank dimple dies on everything for the tanks on my RV10. I didn't "final drill" any of the skins or ribs. Just dimpled. I have both tanks completed & attached to the wings now. I filled both of them completely full of gasoline, let them sit for 2-3 days & had no leaks on either tank.

Marshall Alexander
RV10 wings/ailerons
Final drilling is a very important step. When the holes are punched in the parts for the matched holes it forms a burr and also the inside of the hole is very rough. Final drilling will remove that roughness which when expanded by dimpling will cause microscopic cracks if not pre drilled. I believe you should always final drill and deburr the edges of the hole. I've read some guys drilling with a #41 to still keep the diameter smaller for dimpling but don't know what issues this might cause either. I've seen items written before on this forum about dimpling without drilling and I don't think it is a good practice.
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2006, 12:43 AM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockster
Final drilling is a very important step. <SNIP> I've seen items written before on this forum about dimpling without drilling and I don't think it is a good practice.
Ditto...I also think it is good practise to final dril, I have also heard people talking about it, but I don't know enough or have facts at hand..Anyone have a link to real experience on this?
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2017, 12:24 PM
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1001001 1001001 is offline
 
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Default Zombie Thread Alert!

I hate to revive a thread so long ago put to rest, but I have searched extensively for the answer to the same question the OP here asked, and have not found a real answer. I have found pages and pages of people arguing over whether the tank dies will cause leaky joints, weak joints, sneaky joints, and joints that will either make you rich and famous or steal your girlfriend and impoverish your dear old Grandma, laughing at you the whole time and posting naughty sectioned pictures of themselves for your spouse to see the next time she/he has a look at your web browser history.

Can anyone answer the question:

Are the Tank Dimple Dies meant to be used on the outer skins, substructure (like ribs), or both? If they are to be used on the outer skins, what does one use on the substructure? If they are to be used on the substructure, what does one use on the skin?

Don't even get me started on the "substructure" dies!

Sorry once again, but if anyone can answer or point me to any link that shows a consensus on the subject, I'd appreciate it.
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