Rv-10 TDI 1st Condition Complete

Flandy10 · #1 03-20-2018, 02:04 PM

Well, it took about 2.5 months, but its back in the air- sort of.

The condition inspection went very well. RV guru Vic Syracuse gave the airframe a thorough inspection. He left the engine to me.

Punch list items--
1. Aileron SB inspection- completed- no cracks.
2. One brake master cylinder fitting weeping- resealed all 8.
3. Two small cracks in the inlet ramp baffles- stop drilled.

Modification list--
1. Upgraded rudder stop installed-recommended by Vic.
2. Reduced my aux battery system by half- saved about 8 lbs.
3. Installed an access door in aft bulkhead- Now just 10 screws instead of 35 to check the battery and aft equipment bay.

4. Enlarged oil cooler inlet and ducting

5. CMI installed a production version oil pump -- This was a huge disassembly job that is half of the reason for the lengthy condition. Checking to see if I can post photos.- standby.

Flandy10 · #2 03-20-2018, 02:07 PM

Now for the "sort of" answer....

During a post condition test flight, I found one of the eight induction clamps migrating

. They're not supposed to move and didn't during the first 100 hours.

When your running 90" MAP at takeoff, you don't want ANY movement in these clamps.

Still troubleshooting the issue, but I did find that the migrating clamp's spring has gotten shorter compared to a new one.

Checking with manufacturer...

to be con't.

unitink72 · #3 03-20-2018, 09:26 PM

Never heard of an upgraded rudder stop. Got a link or pics?

vic syracuse · #4 03-21-2018, 05:08 AM

One example is sold by Flyboy accessories, called the internal rudder stop. Or you can make your own from aluminum. The kit rudder stops have been known to break the rivets in high wind conditions when parked without securing the rudder. Mine included. It can happen while at a fuel stop when someone inadvertently pulls away with a lot of power and the prop blast is facing your RV10. When that happens the rudder contacts the elevator and usually leaves a dent or a hole in the rudder.

Vic

rv6ejguy · #5 03-21-2018, 05:51 AM

Thanks for posting your findings during the inspection Scott.

DanH · #6 03-21-2018, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic syracuse

One example is sold by Flyboy accessories, called the internal rudder stop.

And you believe the internal rudder stop is structurally better?

Jesse · #7 03-21-2018, 06:19 AM

The easiest way to upgrade the rudder stop is to replace the #4 rivets with #6 screws and nuts.

SabreFlyr · #8 03-21-2018, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanH

And you believe the internal rudder stop is structurally better?

Offhand, Dan, I'd guess "yes." The internal stop would be nylon against the heavier gauge aluminum rudder spar whereas the standard stop is heavier gauge aluminum against the lighter gauge aluminum skin. Granted, I believe the contact is where the skin is backed by a rib but the internal stop is contacting heavier gauge that is also backed by heavier gauge.

vic syracuse · #9 03-21-2018, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanH

And you believe the internal rudder stop is structurally better?

Well, I haven't done any FEMA analysis on it, but after mine broke from a gust of wind and put a hole in the rudder, I made a solid piece similar to the nylon one provided by Flyboys. It hasn't broken since.

Nor do I think it is now capable of breaking.

I see Jesse mentioned replacing the rivets with screws. I thought about that but didn't want to be a test bed again.

I also think there is more surface area contacting the rudder now as well.

Vic