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Recommendations for instrument panel lettering

von_flyer

Well Known Member
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I’m looking for suggestions for methods and sources for custom panel lettering and graphics. Thank you in advance.
 
I measured up every thing and had my panel printed on vinyl, if you have a file from a cad machine that cut a panel that can be used to label everything. And it’s editable so you an change the look at will. Cost is very reasonable
 
I used a P-Touch label maker to print white on clear labels to go on a dark grey panel. Trimmed the labels to just slightly wider than the height of the lettering. After attaching the labels, I sprayed the panel with a clear satin, they turned out very nice. 6B86D388-6B7A-4CF7-A108-09E8ABAC2CC7.jpg
 
Me too

I plan to do what flyhud did and p-touch label my panel for the phase 1. After phase 1 or when i decide i like everything, i will brush clear over the labels.
 
Has anyone done dry transfer with artwork they created with CAD or other program format?
 
Durablack

Used a product called "Durablack" from johnson plastics

https://www.jpplus.com/durablack.

It's a black coated aluminum plate that can be laser etched. Jeremy was the first one I saw use it. My local engraver did the laser etching from a pdf file I sent to him. Whole cost for the material (18x36") and engraving, less than $75.

Plates are cut with a table saw (100 tooth carbide blade) and stuck on with VHB tape.

Switches sandwich both panel and plate.

Came out nice... and can be swapped out if ever there was a change to your layout.
 

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Dry transfer design using Visio and made by customrubontransfers.com
https://customrubontransfers.com
Nest like a model decal sheet and make extras in case you mess one up.
Coat with clear, or not. I haven't, and 12 years later (on the 6) still fine, but I did change one switch function/label by scraping it off with a toothpick. Can't do that if you clear over.
Use a burnishing tool to put them on. Easy peasy.

$42 for a delivered professional product. Can't beat that with a stick.
 

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brother p-touch white on clear label

I plan to do what flyhud did and p-touch label my panel for the phase 1. After phase 1 or when i decide i like everything, i will brush clear over the labels.
I also used the white on clear p-touch labels, and planned to do something more "permanent" once I was sure all was good.

They have a little bit of a shine from some angles, but not when flying. The way Flyhud used them is impressive - looks perfect. Mine are no where near as nice, as you can see in the image, but functional.

img_4778-e1541964856264.jpg
 
Dry transfer design using Visio and made by customrubontransfers.com
Nest like a model decal sheet and make extras in case you mess one up.
Coat with clear, or not. I haven't, and 12 years later (on the 6) still fine, but I did change one switch function/label by scraping it off with a toothpick. Can't do that if you clear over.
Use a burnishing tool to put them on. Easy peasy.

I did very similar. Made all panel text in a PowerPoint and sent to local print shop to print on dry transfer sheets. Print shop provided burnishing tool. Covered with clear (with a touch of flattener). Bullet proof with no issues in 13+ years.
 
Thank you. Dry transfer seems easiest for the DYI approach. I can CAD up exactly what I want. I assume placing a ruler on the drawing for scaling at the printer is helpful.
 
I found some 8.5 x 11 sheets of the water slide material designed for laser printers. layed out everything in word, printed and applied. I then shot three coats of clear over it and blocked it down flat. You can't see the material under the clear, just the letters.

Larry
 
Thank you. Dry transfer seems easiest for the DYI approach. I can CAD up exactly what I want. I assume placing a ruler on the drawing for scaling at the printer is helpful.
$37 delivered for an 8.5x11 sheet. Hard to beat that for a pro job.
They print 1:1 and have supported file types shown on the order page.

Only issue I had was that my hole-center target lines were too thin to print, so make sure they are not hairlines. They fixed it for me and even gave me the sheet that didn't quite print correctly, so I had some more spares.
 
I don't remember who I used... maybe aircraft engravers. I did my panel in the typical plastic engraving style. I was in the navy from 76-84 and spent some time sitting in and admiring the cockpits of many navy planes. Most of the labeling then was this type of engraving. Strictly utilitarian. It takes me back. I hope the image posts!


https://flic.kr/p/2kxzJNQ
 
I found some 8.5 x 11 sheets of the water slide material designed for laser printers. layed out everything in word, printed and applied. I then shot three coats of clear over it and blocked it down flat. You can't see the material under the clear, just the letters.

Larry

I tried that first but the ink density of the lines was not as good as I wanted. Kinda grainy. Probably my ancient printer. I sent the file to Stein for better printing. Worked great. Zero evidence of clear substrate rectangle after application. I did use a modelling product to paint on the rectangle edges to make them 'melt in`. I added switch hole centerlines on the decal as an aid to location during application.
 
I tried that first but the ink density of the lines was not as good as I wanted. Kinda grainy. Probably my ancient printer. I sent the file to Stein for better printing. Worked great. Zero evidence of clear substrate rectangle after application. I did use a modelling product to paint on the rectangle edges to make them 'melt in`. I added switch hole centerlines on the decal as an aid to location during application.

I am sure the printer has a lot do with it, as does the quality of the transfer material. Mine seem quite sharp, even up close. I do get very tiny bubbles that appear, at the edges on a couple of them. Must be some chemical reaction between the adhesive and the clear coat chemicals. Something no one elese would ever notice though.

Larry
 

Maybe similar to the above but this is what I used: DecalPro FX system, https://decalprofx.com/index.html.
It says "simple" -- it isn't really, nevertheless the results are great, looks and wears like silk-screened lettering.
This image shows it -- note that there are a few switches I changed around which have temporary stickers. I'll make new decals to replace those and it will all match up again, one of these days!
 

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Used a product called "Durablack" from johnson plastics

https://www.jpplus.com/durablack.

It's a black coated aluminum plate that can be laser etched. Jeremy was the first one I saw use it. My local engraver did the laser etching from a pdf file I sent to him. Whole cost for the material (18x36") and engraving, less than $75.

Plates are cut with a table saw (100 tooth carbide blade) and stuck on with VHB tape.

Switches sandwich both panel and plate.

Came out nice... and can be swapped out if ever there was a change to your layout.

As a Psychiatrist, I have to ask:
What does the PTSD button do? What does that acronym stand for in your plane?
 
I had great results with decalfxpro. There is a bit of a learning curve but the savings are well worth the effort. It is a process, well worth learning.
 

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Used a product called "Durablack" from johnson plastics

https://www.jpplus.com/durablack.

It's a black coated aluminum plate that can be laser etched. Jeremy was the first one I saw use it. My local engraver did the laser etching from a pdf file I sent to him. Whole cost for the material (18x36") and engraving, less than $75.
Very nice indeed. What thickness did you use? Once etched/engraved does it need a clearcoat process to maintain it's appearance?

George
 
PTSD

Everyone has it ...

PTSD noun /ˌpiː.tiː.esˈdiː/ abbreviation for: Push to start device

I can always tell who is really paying attention in the crowd :D
 
BlndRvtr

The plate is .040"

Durablack Matte Black .040 Aluminum Sheet SHT - 12" x 20" AM5978 1 $20.55
 
I'm also going the dry transfer route, should be sending an order as soon as I get a quote from a local supplier.

Really interested to see people in this thread reporting about longevity without clear coat on top. I've been wondering about that, and have been erring towards using a clear coat seal, but also thinking that that'll make any subsequent modification/addition look like a half-done afterthought.

As far as "CAD," I just put together a PDF from Google Drawings, seems to do the trick. I can fit four copies of everything I need on a single A3-size sheet.

- mark
 
Hi,

when I went to "my" paintshop to discuss the interior paint he offered me to paint as well the instrument panel. He has a printer who can directly print on flat surfaces. He needs this printer for medical devices and it came out perfectly. I just had to measure my panel and make a CAD model for it to get all the letters in the perfect spot. But well worth the work!
 

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interested to see people in this thread reporting about longevity without clear coat on top

Redid and resprayed my panel Dec 2019, lettering applied free handed as the panel is riveted as per plans...
Used my text program to fill out an A4 size page of needed captions and spare letters & numbers. Choose the font Comic as pleasing and not too critical in terms of alignement...
The lettering of the whole panel took about 3 hours, and most find the result quite pleasing.

No clear coat applied.

Durability has been excellent. As the vendor stated, the longer the dry transfer has been applied, the better it sticks. Still, care has to be taken, as making contact with any sharp object will scratch away said letter or number.
On the other hand it offers great flexibility. I changed some lettering last week and was happily surprised at the adhesion, used my nail and alcohol to rub them off, and applied the new stuff.

Easy to apply, good looking, cheap, and highly flexible.
 

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which dry transfer product?

...Durability has been excellent. As the vendor stated, the longer the dry transfer has been applied, the better it sticks. ...
Hi Dan, Looks nice. What product did you use for the dry transfer? I have not found any that supports white.
 
Hi Dan, Looks nice. What product did you use for the dry transfer? I have not found any that supports white.

The vendor in my previous post does white. In fact, you can combine colors, etc. for more $. This technique is used a lot for graphics on marketing models, etc.

The durability is very good, as you are really rubbing down a form of paint. In fact, the nail polish industry recently caught on to this and are selling sheets of pre-printed rub-down nail polish in all sorts of crazy designs. Wife loves it. (Color Street if you want to earn some points)

These do have a shelf life (because of the "paint"). The sheet lettering will get brittle after a year or so. (I don't know exactly how long, but use them fresh)
 
One of the advantages I found to using the DecalPro system was that you don't have to plan everything out for sure the way everything is going to be all at once and send off to a vendor.

You can make up some sheets with nested graphics and apply them. Then if you mess one up, or you change your mind, or think of something else that you left out, no big deal, you go make some more.

I didn't put any clear over them. For the most part, they have held up very well. After almost 12 years, the labels for the Master and the Boost Pump, are showing some wear. I made 100LL fuel labels for the wing fuel ports, and one of them was damaged when I spilled fuel over it, then wiped it. Oops. If you get fuel on it, just leave it alone.
 
Steve Smith?

Steve, did you have / purchase the laminator they describe as being part of the process? If not, why not? If so, which one did you purchase.
In total, what was your set-up process & $$$?
Could you briefly describe the printing-to-application process? I'm interested to see if this would be "better" than simply ordering a sheet with a bunch of switch-label options that I could choose from if I decided to modify a switch function in the "near" future.

I've purchased some materials in the past, but they simply will not print white lettering no matter what I try. I'm looking for a "roll-your-own" process to replace the Brother label maker method.

Stein used to print the white sheets of labels, but no longer.
 
I had great results with decalfxpro. There is a bit of a learning curve but the savings are well worth the effort. It is a process, well worth learning.

I looked into the decalfxpro and several youtube videos and it seemed like between the learning curve and equipment cost, it wasn't worth it. I admire that you took it on, though! Perhaps I'll give it a go someday. This vendor works with PDF files, has excellent quality and reasonable prices - and no learning curve! http://www.drytransfer.com/
 
DecalPRO Current Cost and Process Overview

I recently purchased a DecalPRO kit and the recommended laminator, Tamerica SM-330. The all in price including shipping was $271.28.

I found the process quite satisfactory for panel size lettering, including white lettering.

But I do acknowledge it is a time consuming multiple step process that may not be suitable for all.

There is a learning curve to master that requires careful compliance with the detailed instructions that are obtainable on the DecalPRO website, which are worth reading before you make a decision to purchase the product.

But I found that by following them closely, and using the specified equipment, my results came out perfect the first attempt.

Here is a rough overview.

First you laser print your label on the supplied transfer paper and run the printed transfer paper through the laminator with mylar film in the desired color. That fuses the color to the laser printed lettering or graphics, and the excess colored mylar film lifts off the transfer paper leaving the colored lettering. This is run through the laminator again with a clear mylar film which adheres to the colored letters or graphics. Then you soak this in warm water to separate the clear mylar with adhering letters or graphics from the transfer paper. After drying it, you apply the specialty adhesive from a spray can, position it in the desired area, press it down, and lift off the clear mylar film. The letters or graphics adhere to the substrate as the clear mylar film is removed.
 
That's Quite the Process!

Wow! All that to get the lettering on the panel. Plus you now have all that hardware and supplies. Seems you should go into a small side-business to get some return-on-investment.
I don't have a laser printer, not that that's a deal stopper.
Seems, for the price, DryTransfer would be cheaper and faster.
Thanks for detailing that process. With more knowledge, we can make more wizened decisions.
 
Residue?

I used dry transfer letters for a bunch of art projects in college. There was always some residue of the non-printed transfer material.

Do these dry transfer products that others have recommended have similar residue issues, or has the technology advanced since I last used them? My panel is polished carbon fiber, so I'm worried that any residue will be more obvious than on a matte finished panel.
 
DecalPro leaves no residue, just the text. As discussed elsewhere the process is somewhat time-consuming and finicky but the finished product is durable and indistinguishable from silk screening. And with some effort you can get the letters off as well if you really need to change something(s) as I have. For all of those reasons and just being able to DIY I really like this option.
 
I used dry transfer letters for a bunch of art projects in college. There was always some residue of the non-printed transfer material.

Do these dry transfer products that others have recommended have similar residue issues, or has the technology advanced since I last used them? My panel is polished carbon fiber, so I'm worried that any residue will be more obvious than on a matte finished panel.

Not that I can detect.
 
Nope, no residue on mine neither.
Also I was able to do a couple of corrections to the lettering on my panel, following a couple of minor mods, with the original leftovers I had. Those were almost 2 years old and still stick up pretty well. Well, none has fallen off. Yet ;)
 
Local Sign maker

Went to my local sign maker. Printed and cut on standard vinyl sign material. Holding up well so far. Asked for a carbon fiber look.
 

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Dry Transfer Graphics

After researching various treads on VAF, I used Reprographx. Not only a great product but also exceptional customer service. I had a small issue with the design created by my lack of communication. Glen at Reprographx took care of me! Just completed placing the graphics on the panel and couldn’t be more satisfied. Below is their contact information.


Custom Rub On Transfers.com
& MORE by ReproGraphX

Phone: 514 365 3082
Toll Free: 1 844 GRAPHXS
Email: [email protected]
Website: CustomRubOnTransfers.com
 

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Backlighting

Has anyone experimented with back lighting a laser engraved panel.



Something like this. I've seen sim cockpit guys do it but I'm wondering if their techniques would hold up in a real aircraft.
 

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Yup, a few of us have. You need to have your switches and lights on subpanels that are mounted behind the main panel. This is so you can "sandwich" the mount plate, then an electroluminescent (EL) backlight panel, then some transparent blue film from eBay, then the label. I did mine with EL light panels from ellumiglow.com, and my labels were engraved by engravers.net. Construction photos circa 2015-2017 attached.
 

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Boeing, MD, Lockheed, Airbus, all use this kind of panel lighting. In the old days (DC8, 727), we had a whole lot of little incandescent peanut bulbs screwed in with a little metal caps and the light traveled through the clear plexiglass panel that was painted black usually, with labels etched through the paint. The bulb went in to the receptacle bulb end first, and the metal cap provided the ground. I got pretty good at changing all the burned out ones on a long night flight. I’m sure the newer ones are some sort of LED lighting or electroluminescent sheet system like Scott has. That type of backlighting with engraved labels really looks good at night.
 
I did it as well. Adds some time and complexity but the cool factor and function is very much worth it.
 
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