WW 200RV owners question

Hello

I would like to post a question to all of those who have the 200RV prop and IO-360 angle valve engine. Trying to compare engines hp using static rpm with the same prop.

What is your max RPM initially on take-off roll (or ground run if you did one) with no governor control? Did you add any washers and if so how many? I am talking about washers added inside the hub to limit fine pitch travel.

In setting my static rpm I could get 2850 even without full throttle. I had to install 5 washers to set the pitch stop for 2640 static which gives me 2750 on full power take off roll without using the governor. Wondering if my hp is higher or this is common to others.

If you rather email or PM me ,then please do.

Thank you very much,

I'm getting right at 2700 RPM with the Jihostroj governor. I was in the mid-2600s at first, but I just adjusted the stop on the governor to let it go to 2700. Go back and read the Whirl Wind 200RV manual. I'm pretty sure 2700 RPM is the max for our prop--at least it is for mine. Also, I'm not using any washers.

Thank you very much for the reply.

What I am looking for is what is the max rpm you get if you have no governor control. To set up your prop correctly, you should adjust the stop so that you cannot seriously over speed if the governor fails, 2750 rpm is OK in this regard. The washers in the hub adjust the fine pitch stop.

I am wondering if my engine is putting out more than avg HP enabling me to spin the prop so fast or if a majority see the same thing, that the props factory set-up for the fine pitch stop is not optimally configured.

I'm curious how you get no prop governor control. I've got front mounted governor. Also, even if the non-governed prop only turns 2700 rpm when AC is static, that will change significantly with airspeed so the only time you would have overspeed protection is initial takeoff roll. Am I missing something?

When I installed the WW200RV Prop on my IO-375 (195 HP) I got 2700 RPM with about 22" MAP. Before the run I adjusted the governer out of normal range. The installed shims from Whirlwind were about 0.4" and I added shims to a thickness of about 0.6". I aimed for 2600 RPM static.
In flight I adjusted the RPM to 2600 RPM and left the governer control there, after landing adjusted the governor stop to this position.

Now the prop doesn?t overshoot during initial T/O roll when applying power. When accelerating the governer does take over.
If I lose oil pressure on the prop I can still fly with about 110 KIAS without overspeeding.

flyinga said:

I'm curious how you get no prop governor control. I've got front mounted governor. Also, even if the non-governed prop only turns 2700 rpm when AC is static, that will change significantly with airspeed so the only time you would have overspeed protection is initial takeoff roll. Am I missing something?

Click to expand...

I have the PCU500X and backed out the high rpm stop so that the governor is not controlling.

I corrected my post, my 2750 is full throttle take off roll and climb out not static, was not clear. Static for me was 2640.

SuperCubDriver said:

When I installed the WW200RV Prop on my IO-375 (195 HP) I got 2700 RPM with about 22" MAP. Before the run I adjusted the governer out of normal range. The installed shims from Whirlwind were about 0.4" and I added shims to a thickness of about 0.6". I aimed for 2600 RPM static.
In flight I adjusted the RPM to 2600 RPM and left the governer control there, after landing adjusted the governor stop to this position.
.

Click to expand...

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for! I measured the shims (washers to me) thickness and wrote it down. I will update this post with my exact change when I read my notes.

How about a photo of the shims in the hub

Could you post a photo or two on removing the hub and the shims within?

[email protected] said:

Could you post a photo or two on removing the hub and the shims within?

Click to expand...

Here are the pictures I took during the process. Found it best a 3 man job, one to pull snap ring and install shim, while one guy on each blade compresses the spring.

Do you need to install shims?

Hub cover on ready to start.


Cover just removed.


Shims, with piston full fine pitch against them.


Ready to put the cover back on.

Here is how I did it, more work however! But can be done alone!

I fabricated some plates from flat steel (actually stainless steel) and used the original srews and aluminum spacers to mount them. On each of the four plates is a threaded rod which holds one end of two other steel plates. Screwing a nut down each a little at a time depresses the piston with it´s spring and unloads the shim pack. Now it´s easy to add or remove shims.

Wade, I would like to know the thickness of your final shim pack for comparison.

SuperCubDriver said:

Wade, I would like to know the thickness of your final shim pack for comparison.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I did not measure the original stack (3 washers) only what was added. Added a total of 5 shims, which I measured at approx. 0.030 each. Started with 3 at WW suggestion (picture above) and then added the other 2. The prop could probably use at least one or 2 more.

with governor, at fine pitch setting

I have an MT governor. With pitch all the way forward (fine) I turn about 2680.

To reduce pitch, I find I have to pull the control back a fair bit off the stop before it starts reducing RPM. I interpreted that as if it meant that the governor wasn't doing anything over that range -- that that would be the RPM I would get if there was no governor at all.

Am I wrong? Would I get a different RPM if I removed the governor line and just capped over the fitting at the front of the case?

All of this seems fairly unimportant. If you lost oil pressure during cruise at 165 kts TAS, the prop would surely overspeed significantly. Your shim adjustment might make the difference between 3100 rpm and 3200 rpm. Its still bad either way. So should I even bother?

scsmith said:

All of this seems fairly unimportant. If you lost oil pressure during cruise at 165 kts TAS, the prop would surely overspeed significantly. Your shim adjustment might make the difference between 3100 rpm and 3200 rpm. Its still bad either way. So should I even bother?

Click to expand...

The purpose of my question is only to determine if others have had a need to significantly adjust the fine pitch stop to know (1) poor mans dyno for comparison and (2) if the pitch from the factory is set too low for our hp/speed application.

Actually it makes quite a difference for RPM. When the prop is against the pitch stop it is a "fixed pitch prop". If you loose the control the spring moves it to the fine pitch stop (std non aero prop hub) so you can get no more than maximum rpm if you have it set that way. On the other hand, if you have the pitch being pulled back by the governor to control to 2600 rpm and you loose control, then as it moves to the stop, it will surge to who knows where (if one did not bother to find out).

Not familiar with MT gov's but if you can get no increase in rpm with control movement it sounds like it cannot move the prop any more fine. I assume you mean at full power (low alt) when you say this.

To adjust the low pitch stop is recommended in the prop manuals, at least in Hartzell and Whirlwind manuals I have.

There are several advantages with it:

1. Prop RPM will not overshoot when applying power (too fast) on T/O.
2. Loosing the governor inflight gives more airspeed without Prop overspeed (I mean with max. allowed RPM).
3. As the prop is like a fixed pitch prop on the ground or initial T/O roll you can judge the power of the engine. So if you lose RPM here over time with an aging engine you know the engine is becoming weak, which in turn compromises T/O performance and other performance data - good to know!

Yes in cruise the prop will still overspeed when losing oil pressure in the prop hub, but at least not as much as without the adjustment.