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Vacuum pump removal.

kjelle69

Active Member
I have searched the threads in this forum for information about removal of the vacuum pump. apparently the studs are troublesome to remove. What is the correct procedure? Heat?

Another question is about the oil galley in the engine acessory case. Is it 100% ok to plug it using one of these cover plates?
http://www.aircraftspecialties.aero/cover-vacuum-pump-ael60430/

How will it affect the oil system when it becomes a "dead end" against the plate there?
 

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Oil Diagram O-360

Seems that the flow to the Vacuum pump drive gear is just a bypass parallell to the main flow just before the relief valve.
 

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stud removal tool

I have searched the threads in this forum for information about removal of the vacuum pump. apparently the studs are troublesome to remove. What is the correct procedure? Heat? ...
I bought a "stud removal tool" that was recommended on another thread, but have not used it yet.
 
Heat helps, but do not overdo it. Apply heat with a heat-gun to the aluminum around the stud. Not more heat as the engine case has after a flight. Then put on the removing tool and apply pressure in a "wiggle mode" ... take your time ... till it comes loose. If I apply just the full pressure to get the stud out, the removing tool starts to slip. In "wiggle-mode" it start to break the bond of Loctite that was used to insert the stud.
 
No problem covering that hole. As long as the plate is solid around the oil port, a gasket alone will seal it just fine. A special plate is not necessary, if it is solid there. I made one, but the linked version will be fine, just be sure to make or buy a gasket for it. No issues to the oil system with this blocked. It is blocked in most cases as most modern vac pumps are dry.

Larry
 
If I interpret the drawing right you replace the Vacuum pump base with four spacers and that way you'll end up with four protruding things which will be in the way whenever poking around at the back of the engine.
 

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I just did this on an 0320. Removed vacuum pump. May need the special wrench for one of the nuts. Removed pump and replaced it with a cover and gasket both of which I received from spruce. Used the existing studs, nuts and washers. No spacers required.
 
Expensive cover

You know, B&C makes a $600 cover for that. It also puts out, like 20 amps, when the engine is above idle. If you go this route, you will not have to remove the studs.
 
Sounds interesting. Do you have a link to this device?

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/alternators_bc/sd20_alternator.php

07-06771-2015.jpg
 
The lower left nut is a real challenge to remove. I asked around and ended up borrowing a "custom" tool from a buddy who's a 30+ year A&P. I happen to have it sitting on my desk right next to my computer, so it was easy to take a pic. I ended up making my own because I would've needed to grind his down a bit to make it fit and it's considered poor form to start grinding on another man's tools!

EDITED... I took another look at your post and see that you've already removed the pump. It was probably fairly straight forward to remove the vacuum pump with the mag removed! Nevermind... But I'll leave this here in case someone else can benefit from it.

Unless somebody says it's imperative to install shorter studs, I'm just going to make a thicker plate and/or add spacers because removing and replacing studs seems like a bunch of work!
 

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Jason, what you did makes sense. Did you remove the gear assembly? Thank you

The pump side spline drive only. 4 nuts and the pump comes off with its spline drive. Replace with it the plate and gasket. Super simple. Throw pump in trash can.
 
dig out of trash

The pump side spline drive only. 4 nuts and the pump comes off with its spline drive. Replace with it the plate and gasket. Super simple. Throw pump in trash can.

Dig out of trash; attach pulley and electric motor; use for vacuum bagging fiberglass parts.
 
Ya that $600.00 Alternator cost more than $600.00
$625.00 Plus an $200.00 regulator plus tax and shipping depending on location. I just did it.
Yes I would do it again so's to have the juice when I might need it.
Just put a switch to select alternator field power and your ready to go.
Heck, I even put in two batteries in parallel to super juice my starter. No 2-PC680 wont fit into the standard RV-6A battery box. BUT if you make it 3/4" wider they will.
Fun on the field Art
 
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