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  #11  
Old 09-21-2022, 07:44 AM
Southern Pete Southern Pete is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: England
Posts: 234
Default

You have done the lock wiring with the spinner back plate removed...?
Bend a small hook on the end of the wire to help it feed when it appears out the end of the roll pin.
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  #12  
Old 09-21-2022, 09:46 AM
Flying Canuck Flying Canuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 696
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The spinner back plate is not installed, nearly impossible to work with the prop bolts with that in place. My problem isn't fishing the wire out after getting through the roll pin, it's getting the wire into and through the bolt core. I'll use the mark, back off, feed and tighten approach that has been mentioned.

I'll keep the various method to grab the wire in mind, I do have a good pair of angled needle nose pliers that should do the trick.
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Claude Pitre
RV-9A #91081, C-GCPT
Dynon SkyView HDX, IO-320 and WW 200RV C/S. Flying as of August 6, 2018

Added GPS 175 and authorized for IFR April 1, 2021

Interactive map of all of my flights here
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  #13  
Old 09-21-2022, 10:18 AM
Ironflight's Avatar
Ironflight Ironflight is offline
VAF Moderator / Line Boy
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 13,313
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I hate to recommend throwing someone else’s money at a problem, but I can tell you that using the Safety Cable tool and cables make prop wiring way easier! The cables are braided, so they are very flexible, and easy to poke through no matter how the bolt gets oriented. Then you just pull it tight through the other one, pop the tool on, squeeze - and you’re done.

However…expect to pay $350 for the tool, plus more for the cables, so figure out what you’re time and frustration is worth….

Paul
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Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
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http://Ironflight.com
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2022, 03:16 PM
Frogman208 Frogman208 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego,ca
Posts: 86
Default Agree with Paul

Yep Paul is right. I bought the tool and safety cable from DMC and have not looked back. Well worth the money if you ask me, now I'm still justifying the cost to the wife unit. Maybe I'll have her try and safety wire the prop for justification.
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RV-9A/N32LK-SOLD
RV-6A/N27KP-SOLD
Flying RV-7/N74RV
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2022, 03:44 PM
erich weaver's Avatar
erich weaver erich weaver is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,842
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My quick eBay-Amazon search indicates the tool alone is going for almost $600. The used ones available were $3-400 and are missing the nose piece.
Yowza.

Update: dmc website indicates a new .032 tool with 3 inch nose is $450
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Last edited by erich weaver : 09-21-2022 at 04:23 PM.
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2022, 04:10 PM
maxmirot maxmirot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Hereford
Posts: 115
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I'll bet if you call props manufactures they would not recommend the safety cable tool either. ( It looks like a nice solution).

It takes time for a manufacture to get comfortable with any new method.
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  #17  
Old 09-21-2022, 04:13 PM
maxmirot maxmirot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Hereford
Posts: 115
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Good article idea for Kitplanes magazine.

Safety wire verses other fastening methods such as Nord-lock washer or the cabling tool.
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  #18  
Old 09-21-2022, 04:20 PM
Taltruda Taltruda is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Canuck View Post
The spinner back plate is not installed, nearly impossible to work with the prop bolts with that in place. My problem isn't fishing the wire out after getting through the roll pin, it's getting the wire into and through the bolt core. I'll use the mark, back off, feed and tighten approach that has been mentioned.

I'll keep the various method to grab the wire in mind, I do have a good pair of angled needle nose pliers that should do the trick.
Going through the core is the easy part.. are you using .032?
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RV-4 flying…
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  #19  
Old 09-21-2022, 05:55 PM
Flying Canuck Flying Canuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taltruda View Post
Going through the core is the easy part.. are you using .032?
Not in my case it isn't, it's not lined up properly to the roll pin. I can get 0.025" through the core but not rigid enough to feed out the other pin. The prescribed 0.032" will not go into the core.

And the safety cable tool is $735 CDN on ACS. I'll learn a whole new group of swear words to avoid that cost.
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Claude Pitre
RV-9A #91081, C-GCPT
Dynon SkyView HDX, IO-320 and WW 200RV C/S. Flying as of August 6, 2018

Added GPS 175 and authorized for IFR April 1, 2021

Interactive map of all of my flights here
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  #20  
Old 09-21-2022, 06:12 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
I hate to recommend throwing someone else’s money at a problem, but I can tell you that using the Safety Cable tool and cables make prop wiring way easier! The cables are braided, so they are very flexible, and easy to poke through no matter how the bolt gets oriented. Then you just pull it tight through the other one, pop the tool on, squeeze - and you’re done.

However…expect to pay $350 for the tool, plus more for the cables, so figure out what you’re time and frustration is worth….

Paul
The torque the nut, loosen, insert the wire, then re-torque method has always worked for me, but the safety cable is way easier. While working for GE in flight ops support, I took a safety wire class (I took every class that was offered to me). We used the safety cables - which GE invented out of necessity. Tracking bits and pieces of clipped off safety wire became a QC nightmare. Every piece of used safety wire had to be accounted for in a jet engine. Hence the safety cable - FAA approved. I bought mine from DMC, and purchased the cables/ferrules online at Amazon. The nose piece is important. Mine is 7”, but sometimes I wish it was shorter. They were about $180 each for the nose piece when I bought mine a few years ago. If you want a different size cable (like .040) that’s a different nose piece. It ain’t cheap, but one per airport, if everyone is friendly and respective, is plenty. I don’t think you can wear this tool out. A local chapter should have one for its members to use.
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RV6/2001 built 2000/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019/sold2021
RV6/August 2022 build - Flying
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
DEC2022
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