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Oil Consumption and Breather Tube

Another failure!

I had an RV-10 in for a panel upgrade today. As luck would have it we have to remove the top cowl to replace a couple of engine sensors. Since I usually test fly the completed projects I always give the engine compartment a good inspection. Lo and behold on this one the oil was pouring out of the dipstick tube and down between the cylinders. It doesn't show up very well in the picture, but the dipstick and dipstick tube were all covered in wet, hot oil. The bottom cowl was oil soaked. Well, I knew what the problem was as soon as I saw the Anti-Splat separator on the firewall. Sure enough, it was plumbed into the exhaust and all coked up. The owner says he inspected it and ran a wire through it a little over 30 hours ago.

I know I've said this before, but those of you who have these in this configuration need to be careful. Regardless of past experiences.

Here is a picture of what got my attention:


Vic
 
... Do you or can you take a photo of the vacuum valve installation so we can see the configuration? We are gathering information and have several tests going on in an effort to solve the coking problem on the RV-10s. This information would help us considerably. This issue is pretty much isolated to the 10s and this is the fourth one we have been made aware of. Thanks, Allan..:D
 
Configuration effects

Very curious about this. I had 40 hours since last inspection and still this is not occurring with my set up. RV8A, IO 360.

Seems this must be due to temperature differences in the exhaust systems. Watching to see what findings come about with all the work getting done on his issue.

Cheers
 
That particular installation also appears to be angled the wrong direction. Isn't the tube supposed to be angled forward relative to exhaust? Not sure what goes on behind that weld but this looks like the exhaust could actually be pressurizing. Anyone else see it like that?
 
I've been following this thread but have been reluctant to post since this isn't on an RV - but it may help others who are trying to solve the coking issue. This exhaust has been on my O-320 LongEZ for 25+ years; more than 2,800 hours. Although I replace the valve at 500 hour intervals on general principle, I've never had to clean the mounting boss. When I first installed this system (designed and marketed by Wes Gardner in 1982) I confirmed the exhaust created a slight vacuum at RPM>1500. The boss is "squished" inside the header and is cut at reverse bias to help extract the crankcase vent. Oil consumption did not increase with the system and has remained ~12hrs/qt through several overhauls.



 
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Feel, what kind of engine is that? The only RV models reporting the problem are the 10am that use the io-540. The other models with smaller engines don't have the coking issue.
 
This is not a 540 only issue. I have a IO-360C1E6 and mine coked over in less than 50 hours. I had oil leaks everywhere when it plugged up. I like the idea/ pricipal of the mod, but don't feel it's worth the trouble I went through. That's just my opinion. If you have the mod installed on any engine, I suggest checking it frequently. Cleaning oil leaks from an engine is a pita.
 
This exhaust has been on my O-320 LongEZ for 25+ years; more than 2,800 hours.

Very interesting.

A location that close to the exhaust valve means the temperature of the tap tube is quite high. Perhaps high enough to (1) burn off deposits, or (2) send oil droplets straight to vapor phase?

My own tap is not as close to the cylinder, but much closer than a tailpipe location. It took a long time to show a deposit, and there wasn't much.

This is not a 540 only issue.

Right on. Experiments are ongoing, but until the problem is fully understood, install a secondary safety valve, or remove the exhaust tap.

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=898049&postcount=149
 
Very interesting.

A location that close to the exhaust valve means the temperature of the tap tube is quite high. Perhaps high enough to (1) burn off deposits, or (2) send oil droplets straight to vapor phase?

My own tap is not as close to the cylinder, but much closer than a tailpipe location. It took a long time to show a deposit, and there wasn't much.

Right on. Experiments are ongoing, but until the problem is fully understood, install a secondary safety valve, or remove the exhaust tap.

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=898049&postcount=149

This is a very common installation on EZ's and I've never heard of the bosses coking up. Perhaps the boss extending into the exhaust plume at least an inch and the breather exit plane ~ in the center of the 1-3/4" tube affects this ? Cowling configuration on EZ's don't give much choice on proximity to the exhaust valve; I initially dissected the valves every 25 hours to see if conducted heat was going to be a problem. I never saw an issue but elected to replace them at 500 hour intervals anyway.

Most EZ's employ updraft cooling, so the exhaust headers and valve see high velocity cold air. If I were experiencing blockage of the crankcase vent system I'd remove it pronto until I understood the issue. A famous "round the world" EZ driver iced his up and blew the crank nose seal while flying over the ocean at night :eek:
 
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This is not a 540 only issue. I have a IO-360C1E6 and mine coked over in less than 50 hours. I had oil leaks everywhere when it plugged up. I like the idea/ pricipal of the mod, but don't feel it's worth the trouble I went through. That's just my opinion. If you have the mod installed on any engine, I suggest checking it frequently. Cleaning oil leaks from an engine is a pita.

... I looked back in our records and see that you only purchased the vacuum valve and a weld in evacuation tube, without our separator. If you were getting a lot of oil on the bottom of your airplane then you were putting oil in this vary same quantity out of the evacuation tube. The oil separator would have solved your problem and we do not recommend using the vacuum system alone for this vary reason. The reported (Records back to early 1970) frequency of this coking issue occurring on the other models is a fraction of 1%. When we had the opportunity to help solve this problem for some on those, it was usually due to an installation error or an engine oil consumption problem due to excessive blow-by. Less than one month ago we had a customer in Burbank Ca. that contacted us with a coking problem. I went to his hangar and helped diagnose it. We found his engine to have a broken oil wiper ring. He re-ringed that cylinder and the problem disappeared. We do recommend that the tube into the exhaust be inspected at each oil change to keep the possibility of a problem down. We are pleased to offer our assistance to anyone who calls us needing parts or answers whenever possible. Thanks, Allan...:D
 
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I've been following this thread but have been reluctant to post since this isn't on an RV - but it may help others who are trying to solve the coking issue. This exhaust has been on my O-320 LongEZ for 25+ years; more than 2,800 hours. Although I replace the valve at 500 hour intervals on general principle, I've never had to clean the mounting boss. When I first installed this system (designed and marketed by Wes Gardner in 1982) I confirmed the exhaust created a slight vacuum at RPM>1500. The boss is "squished" inside the header and is cut at reverse bias to help extract the crankcase vent. Oil consumption did not increase with the system and has remained ~12hrs/qt through several overhauls.

... Wesley and Millie Gardner were very very good friends as well as business associates of mine from 1978 until their devastating accident that claimed them together. They were an integral part of our airshow group at Art Scholl aviation. We actually made the vacuum systems and oil separators for Wes and he resold to the pusher guys. Thank you so much for posting as it helps keep them alive in memory. Allan...:D
 
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... Wesley and Millie Gardner were very very good friends as well as business associates of mine from 1978 until their devastating accident that claimed them together. They were an integral part of our airshow group at Art Scholl aviation. We actually made the vacuum systems and oil separators for Wes and he resold to the pusher guys. Thank you so much for posting as it helps keep them alive in memory. Allan...:D

"Billy Goat" & Millie were wonderful and unique people! I didn't know Wes had someone building these kits for him, but I installed them in each of my experimentals with 100% success. You and I were almost neighbors; I was based at POC for 30 years.

Dick
 
As a data point, I have the ASA kit installed on my O-360 with the clamp on tube located on the left of my two exhaust stacks, just forward of the firewall. At 75 +/- hours I became aware of this issue so I thought it would be a good time to inspect my installation.

I found a 1/8" high ring of coke buildup protruding into the tube right where the tube goes into the exhaust. You can bet I will remove and inspect/clean that thing every oil change until a solution is found.
 
As a data point, I have the ASA kit installed on my O-360 with the clamp on tube located on the left of my two exhaust stacks, just forward of the firewall. At 75 +/- hours I became aware of this issue so I thought it would be a good time to inspect my installation.

I found a 1/8" high ring of coke buildup protruding into the tube right where the tube goes into the exhaust. You can bet I will remove and inspect/clean that thing every oil change until a solution is found.

... A little build-up is OK and normal, it will usually not progress further and will just burn off. If it changes, please let us know. Thanks, Allan...:D
 
"Billy Goat" & Millie were wonderful and unique people! I didn't know Wes had someone building these kits for him, but I installed them in each of my experimentals with 100% success. You and I were almost neighbors; I was based at POC for 30 years.

Dick

Wow! Its a small world. Thank you for your report. Allan...:D
 
... A little build-up is OK and normal, it will usually not progress further and will just burn off. If it changes, please let us know. Thanks, Allan...:D

Allan, I'm not going to let it build-up more than that. I will find a "fix" for this issue.
 
... I looked back in our records and see that you only purchased the vacuum valve and a weld in evacuation tube, without our separator. If you were getting a lot of oil on the bottom of your airplane then you were putting oil in this vary same quantity out of the evacuation tube. The oil separator would have solved your problem and we do not recommend using the vacuum system alone for this vary reason. The reported (Records back to early 1970) frequency of this coking issue occurring on the other models is a fraction of 1%. When we had the opportunity to help solve this problem for some on those, it was usually due to an installation error or an engine oil consumption problem due to excessive blow-by. Less than one month ago we had a customer in Burbank Ca. that contacted us with a coking problem. I went to his hangar and helped diagnose it. We found his engine to have a broken oil wiper ring. He re-ringed that cylinder and the problem disappeared. We do recommend that the tube into the exhaust be inspected at each oil change to keep the possibility of a problem down. We are pleased to offer our assistance to anyone who calls us needing parts or answers whenever possible. Thanks, Allan...:D

Allan,
I already have a oil separator. I do not lose much oil,or have excessive blow by. I installed the valve to pull a vacuum on the case for racing. I was happy with how it performed other than the coking issue. I realize the coking issue is not a function of the valve, but just a result of the temperature the oil is being burned off at that location. I know of a cirrus turbo that has he crankcase vent tube tapped into the exhaust pipe, it cokes over as well. The EZ's with the valve closer to the head and a resultant high temp may be the solution. I applaud your efforts to bring new and interesting products to the market.
 
Allan,
I already have a oil separator. I do not lose much oil,or have excessive blow by. I installed the valve to pull a vacuum on the case for racing. I was happy with how it performed other than the coking issue. I realize the coking issue is not a function of the valve, but just a result of the temperature the oil is being burned off at that location. I know of a cirrus turbo that has he crankcase vent tube tapped into the exhaust pipe, it cokes over as well. The EZ's with the valve closer to the head and a resultant high temp may be the solution. I applaud your efforts to bring new and interesting products to the market.

... If you would like to change out the weld in tube for one of our clamp on saddle mounts with the double wall construction I would be happy to send one your way. This new design is so far showing a lot of promise and may eliminate the issue for you. Just let us know. Thanks, Allan...:D
 
... If you would like to change out the weld in tube for one of our clamp on saddle mounts with the double wall construction I would be happy to send one your way. This new design is so far showing a lot of promise and may eliminate the issue for you. Just let us know. Thanks, Allan...:D

Thanks Allan,
I will try the new design. I believe you have my address.

Thanks
 
Updates

So, I took a picture of the exhaust stub today that I thought was interesting. The customer told me he ran a wire through it about 30 hours ago just like everyone recommends on VAF. Personally, I recommend not using them, but if you do, then at least use a same-diameter drill and get it ALL out.
You will notice on the picture that you can actually see the wire trail, so it was pretty coked 30 hours ago.
I also found it interesting that he said he only notices the problems after LONG trips. So, I don't know if that is a data point, especially for RV-10's. Mine also coked after multiple days of 7 hour flight days.
The second picture shows my solution for these now, until a solution is found. Cap off the exhaust stub and just route the exhaust of the separator overboard above an exhaust pipe.





Vic
 
Been following this thread and collecting some data, and am continuing to experiment. Been slow to jump in because I've also been chasing oil seeps, before, during and after the Air Oil Separator (AOS)/Crankcase Vent Valve (CVV) install, and I can't fully correlate the leaks to a plugged CVV, so I don't want to jump to conclusions...and Allan has been very good to work with throughout. Here's my experience:

IO-540 on a Super Six. ASA AOS, with CVV installed about 20" from exhaust pipe exit, first with a direct weld, then a weld plus a gusset (both failed), and now via a home brew saddle (Allan sent me his, but it didn't fit with my custom engine mount and constrained space).

I had replaced my crank nose seal last September. I used a replacement split seal, just like the one I pulled out (that had done a good job for 14 years). It seemed to go well, but I continued to have oil seeps. Replaced a suspect oil return line, a cracked oil breather nipple, and ensured all connections in the lubrication system were tight. Still had seeps up front that made me a little suspect of my nose seal install, though my timing wheel was clean.

Installed the ASA AOS/CVV last November. I did not see an immediate increase in oil seeps after the install. Flew about 40-50 hours, including a mix of long X-C, 2 SARL races, as well as a fair bit of formation. Some typically cool operations, and some that are typically warmer (wrt to engine and oil temps). However, cool winter OATs prevailed, so my engine ran fairly cool throughout. Still had a pesky seep, and changed a suspect prop governor gasket. Flew our Havasu form clinic in February, and saw the seeps increase, to the point where I decided to install another nose seal. Pulled the CVV (actually the exhaust pipe), and found this:
IMG_0649.jpg


Here's what came out of it:
IMG_0651.jpg


And what it looked like as it cleaned up:
IMG_0650.jpg


The valve was very coked up, and the diaphragm in the CVV had broken, and was bouncing around inside the housing. Did the coking and broken diaphragm lead to the increased seeping, or did the split nose seal and my first try at replacing a nose seal contribute, or both? I can't say for sure. I did replace the seal with a single piece seal after returning from Havasu, and received some good mentoring by the gang at Lycon on how to prepare the bore even better than my first try, which was fairly fastidious, but I do think there was a steep learning curve there.

Allan provided me with a spare check valve, so I reinstalled the CVV after the second nose seal change, and have flown about 100 hours since, most of which has been formation and racing, in higher OATs, so the engine and oil temps have been hotter than in those first 40-50 hours. The nose seal has held well, but I am still chasing seeps, which have worsened. I'm replacing a suspect oil cooler line tomorrow, and it appears I have a slight seep at the lower-front case split between the oil sump and the crank opening. Interestingly enough, I've checked the CVV about every 25 hours, and it has not coked over significantly again. Very small coke deposits are evident, and they do seem to like the inner bore where the weld to the saddle is, as has been noted by others. But it has been nothing like the picture above, at all.

So did higher spring and summer temps during typically hotter operations (formation and pylon racing) decrease the coking? Did shortening the inspection and cleaning interval on the CVV and spigot keep the deposits at bay (IOW, do the deposits take more than 40 hours to develop into major plugs, or do they accelerate their development after a certain buildup has occurred)? Just dunno!

I described my oil seep situation in detail, so I would not be unfairly pointing a finger at the ASA product. Because the CVV has been fairly clean on the past four 25 hour inspections, I'm going to keep experimenting to see if I can see a correlation between the CVV and my seep. Today I bought a pair of NAPA 2-29000 valves, and some more hose. Because the silicone hose seems to sweat oil a bit, and I'm having these seeps, I want to isolate the two, so I'll use fuel hose. I'll also T-in a second safety CVV, as Dan showed in his application.

Another comparative test I'd like to run is to disconnect the CVV completely and see what happens to my seeps. Vic, since you did that on the recent job you showed, I have a question for ya (others likely know the answer as well). I can cap the CVV as you did, that's easy. To complete the changeover for the test, which method of the following is best?
1. Remove the -4 return line at the case and reinstall the case plug, then capture or vent that -4 line overboard.
2. Remove the -4 line completely, reinstall the case plug, cap the -4 opening at the ASA AOS, and route the large hose (that went to the CVV) to a capture cup or vent it overboard.
3. Leave the return line installed to the case, and just vent the large ASA tube to a capture cup or overboard (or does that result in a case leak via the ASA AOS?

Allan, I'll give you a holler on this as well?I'd like to see about giving the dual-walled spigot a try. Is that available without the saddle, so I can weld up another custom saddle?

Thanks much guys!

Cheers,
Bob
 
My thoughts

Bob, I capped the line and left the drain back into the case, and vented the breather tube overboard. I don't think there is any harm in that. Once I arrived back at home I removed it and put the Air Wolf Separator back on so I didn't do any further experimentation.
With the Anti-Splat separator disconnected from the exhaust it is working in a normal air-oil separator configuration, and I don't see any harm in that.

Vic
 
....the diaphragm in the CVV had broken, and was bouncing around inside the housing.

Got a picture of that valve?

I'll also T-in a second safety CVV, as Dan showed in his application.

FWIW, I've made one minor change. Previously the second valve was hanging on the end of a long hose section, so the valve itself was down in a lower corner of the engine compartment. The valve location was mostly driven by a desire to not make a mess if any oil actually did exit the valve. After a good bit of flying, it has been entirely dry, so I shortened that hose. The safety valve is now on a hose stub teed in just below the separator can.

4ljdvs.jpg


Another comparative test I'd like to run is to disconnect the CVV completely and see what happens to my seeps.

Install the safety valve, leave the evacuator valve connected, and do this experiment. Get a short length of aluminum tube same OD as your breather hose. Drill and tap the sidewall 1/8 NPT and screw in a 1/8" barb fitting. Splice it into your breather line, run a length of 1/8" vinyl tubing to the cockpit. Plug in an electronic manometer, or an old-time mechanic's manifold vacuum gauge. You should see 2~3 inches Hg negative pressure in flight. If you have it, negative case pressure is limiting your seeps. If you have positive pressure, it is making them worse.

axxrsz.jpg
 
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Bob, I capped the line and left the drain back into the case, and vented the breather tube overboard. I don't think there is any harm in that. Once I arrived back at home I removed it and put the Air Wolf Separator back on so I didn't do any further experimentation.
With the Anti-Splat separator disconnected from the exhaust it is working in a normal air-oil separator configuration, and I don't see any harm in that.

Vic

Thanks Vic!

Got a picture of that valve?

Dan, dug through my pics and can't find one. Will see if I have the old valve at the hangar, but moved hangars in Aug (fun…OK, not ;)), so may have pitched it or buried it in a box. However, IIRC, the round diaphragm piece was just rattling around in the case, and could be seen easily looking in the opening. Looked like a clean break off to me. I should have done an autopsy! ;) I will if I find it.

FWIW, I've made one minor change. Previously the second valve was hanging on the end of a long hose section, so the valve itself was down in a lower corner of the engine compartment. The valve location was mostly driven by a desire to not make a mess if any oil actually did exit the valve. After a good bit of flying, it has been entirely dry, so I shortened that hose. The safety valve is now on a hose stub teed in just below the separator can.

Perfect…was going to ask you if the sump (rise and fall) in the second line was purposeful. What you said here makes sense, and makes my install much easier, space-wise. The orientation of the second check valve really makes no difference, concur?

Install the safety valve, leave the evacuator valve connected, and do this experiment. Get a short length of aluminum tube same OD as your breather hose. Drill and tap the sidewall 1/8 NPT and screw in a 1/8" barb fitting. Splice it into your breather line, run a length of 1/8" vinyl tubing to the cockpit. Plug in an electronic manometer, or an old-time mechanic's manifold vacuum gauge. You should see 2~3 inches Hg negative pressure in flight. If you have it, negative case pressure is limiting your seeps. If you have positive pressure, it is making them worse.

Great idea! Question on hose type. I found the silicone hose supplied, and another I used as a replacement, both sweated (is that a word?) oil pretty markedly…both became damp with an oil mist on the outside, and even became slightly discolored. I have some fuel hose, but the stiffer 5/8" fuel hose I have won't fit on the 3/4" ASA barbed fittings the way the softer (but sweaty) 5/8" silicone hose will. The nipple on my breather and on the check valves are, of course, 5/8". So I bought some 3/4" fuel hose, and a couple plastic 3/4" to 5/8" couplers. as well as a 5/8" T, and plan to put it together like this (I figure I can tap into one of the plastic couplers to run the line to the manometer):
CVV%2520Diagram.jpg


Just seems like I'm getting a lot of hose pieces and connectors. What hose are you using, and does it fit both the 3/4" nipples on the AOS, and the 5/8" nipples on the valves…or are you using a home brew AOS…I seem to recall you may be doing that. (Might be over thinking this…and 'm waiting for the slap on the back of the head, Mr. Frederick! :p)

Last PITA Q…It's probably in another thread, but can you direct me to the electric manometer of choice…its time I get on board. I probably should plan an AL trip and get my test and eval program Hortonized! :D

Cheers,
Bob
 
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...dug through my pics and can't find one. Will see if I have the old valve at the hangar...

There are valves of various quality out there, so let's ID the ones that have failed. The NAPA 2-29000 seems to have a good reputation.

The orientation of the second check valve really makes no difference, concur?

I don't know. I had the same thought, and liked the idea of pointing the relocated valve upward, as gravity may help keep the diaphragm shut. The less it moves, the longer it lasts. Note I also chucked it in the lathe and removed the mounting nut. Rutan would approve.

Just seems like I'm getting a lot of hose pieces and connectors. What hose are you using, and does it fit both the 3/4" nipples on the AOS, and the 5/8" nipples on the valves…

My stuff is homebuilt, so everything has a 3/4 nipple except the NAPA valve's 5/8. I'm having excellent success with a very common industrial hose available at your local Parker store. And yes, the 3/4 size clamps down on the 5/8 valve nipple just fine:

161n81g.jpg


Well, wait a minute...not everything. The tee fitting is welded up with a 5/8 stem.

...can you direct me to the electric manometer of choice…

Several of us are using these, and they do fine. Ken even checked calibration, which was quite good. I think I ordered mine from "superpowersale999"....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Man...946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aeb24f2a

...but there are numerous sellers of the same unit on Ebay
 
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DanH;920054 Several of us are using these said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Manometer-Differential-Air-Pressure-Meter-Gauge-/230564187946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aeb24f2a[/url]

...but there are numerous sellers of the same unit on Ebay

I just order one of these, enough guessing if I have a vacuum on the case or not. Although, when the valve plugged it was easy to determine I was pressurizing the case....oh the oil leaks came from everywhere, but stopped immediately once it was cleared.
 
Quick note on manometer usage.

It's really a differential pressure meter. Obviously one nipple connects to the vinyl tube from the breather system, but don't fail to consider what to do with the meter's other hose nipple.

When in flight, cabin pressure probably doesn't equal static pressure. Some measurements (for example, cooling plenum pressure) will require connecting to the aircraft static system to get a reasonably true differential.

Other, larger pressures make the error less important when the meter port is simply open to the cabin. That's probably true for this case pressure measurement. For example, 2.5 in Hg is about 34 in H20, so static error of a few inches H2O more or less isn't going to confuse the result...you'll still know if you have reasonable negative pressure. Just be aware your reading might not be perfectly accurate.

Yeah, I've done so much of this that 'ole 5551 has a permanent cabin tap point in the aircraft static line, and miniature pressure port fittings through the firewall ;)
 
There are valves of various quality out there, so let's ID the ones that have failed. The NAPA 2-29000 seems to have a good reputation

This is the valve I've been using, and I dissect them after their (arbitrary) 500 hour life. I've seen nothing suggesting these won't last > 500 hours, but it's cheap insurance. I remove the breather hose and blow through it every annual with my calibrated mouth to ensure it's still working :D
 
Manometer on the way here too. There's a coupler with a date with a drill 'n tap on my workbench.

Parker is where I purchased these hoses as well. When I was in the store yesterday, the fella said he has better hose than what I bought last time, so I must not have 'splained to them that it was for petroleum products that day. Will go with the fuel hose I have?thumbs up from the Parker fella, and good for petrochemisty!

Since I have OTS couplers and Ts for now, will go with the rig as drawn above, and get the bypass valve in place?prepping for a couple Raven shows, so need to be underway, and will get the man-o-meter in place ASAP.

Found the failed CVV today, and did a bit of forensics. Looks like the center rivet that holds the diaphragm together failed?in fact its gone (the rivet). Here are a few pics of the valve, another ASA-supplied valve (silver) and a couple NAPA 2-29000 valves (gold):

Here is the old failed valve, flanked by the NAPA (L) and the second ASA valve (R). Interesting how discolored the old valve is after 40 hours, while the second valve looks to be in good shape, after 100 hours:

IMG_1091.jpg


Here are the valves flipped over, and seen from the threaded opening side (in order from failed valve, to ASA replacement valve, to NAPA valve:

IMG_1088.jpg


IMG_1089.jpg


IMG_1090.jpg


Here is the pass in review of the valves, with the dissected failed valve splayed out. I'm thinking' this valve may have failed early in its life, resulting in the burnt look and dirty (by comparison) innards:

IMG_1100.jpg


IMG_1097.jpg


The stripe on the right Napa valve is a shallow bandsaw blade cut i put in. This will be the safety valve, and my plan is to put some light screen material over the opening, and safety-wire it in place?using that cut as a capture ring for the wire?might be overkill, but might keep stuff out of the valve.

Install tomorrow, test flight when it stops rainin' (though we need it!).

Cheers,
Bob
 
Completed the install of the additional check valve as a safety valve today. Here are a few pics:

From the breather (R) to the ASA Air Oil Separator (L). 5/8 to 3/4 black plastic coupler is where the tap for the manometer will go. Figured I'd use a barbed fitting from one of the extra (old) O2 regulators I have. Dan, are you using Tygon tube, or standard pitot-static line? Also figure I'll tap into the static line under the panel to my Dynons.

IMG_1108.jpg


From the ASA AOS, through the T, and down to the safety valve. I initially did a fancy job of adel clamping to the engine mount, but it all became so stiff, that I thought it might start working the spigot weld in the pipe (recalling my early faux-paux of adelling the spigot itself to the mount, which Dan quickly threw the penalty flag on, saving me more cracked welds!). Two flexible stand-offs keep it from banging the engine mount, but it all stay flexible enough to absorb the start-up/shut-down shakes.

IMG_1111.jpg


The base of the T goes to the primary CVV in the ex pipe.
IMG_1112.jpg


IMG_1116.jpg


Put it all together, and had great Wx for test flying. Test ran the engine, and still saw a leak under the oil cooler. New cooler hose and fittings all good, but cooler showed a little suspicious wetness, and the runs on the mount were right below that area. Pressure tested the cooler with a little soapy water, and it bubbled from within?dern it. Stole the cooler from my hangar-mate's F1 Rocket, and ordered him a new one. Will fly upon return from this week's work trip, and report impact on leaks, and progress on man-o-meter install (it shipped today).

Cheers,
Bob
 
Hi Guys,

The first valve that I received about 1.5 years ago failed in exactly the same way as Ron's description above, the rivet let go and the valve coked up around the diaphram causing the nose seal to blow out, l was close to the airport so it was not a real drama.

The current valve has nearly 50 hours on it and I am watching it closely.

Cheers
 
Completed the install of the additional check valve as a safety valve today.

That might be messy. There is some small amount of oil in the suction line down to the exhaust tap. Hanging the safety valve straight down from the separator and branching the exhaust line will surely have some small quantity of oil dripping from the safety valve over time. Gravity is soooo reliable.

Suggest you orient the stem of the tee so it points upwards, and put the safety valve there (right, below):

333h2s7.jpg


..are you using Tygon tube, or standard pitot-static line? Also figure I'll tap into the static line under the panel to my Dynons.

I've been using tygon, but cheap vinyl tubing seems to work ok.

Note that tapping the aircraft static system, for this measurement or any other, can create a safety problem of its own. A leak (or later, a missing plug) will result in a flight instrument error.

For this measurement, cabin pressure on the static side of the manometer shouldn't make a lot of difference. If you really want a static system tap, find a location which allows easy access and preflight inspection. For example, in my -8 the tap is near the floor, 6" forward of the main spar on the right, visible in flight and every time I board.
 
Wow, 24 pages and 236 posts in this thread..

Sorry can't help myself but I have to ask: can someone please remind me what the ACTUAL benefit is to adding all this "stuff" to your engine that has the potential of causing some very serious problems :confused:

Please don't tell me to keep the belly clean.
 
Walt, I believe the argument in favor is the checkvalve and exhaust draw a slight pressure on the crankcase which is proported to I've a few HP boost.
 
Dan,

Thanks?easy fix?and I have plenty of hose left! ;) Good gouge on the static tap?also easy to incorporate?thx!

Walt, one possible benefit is a slight HP boost, reportedly from decreasing the case pressure, and thus increasing the relative pressure between the top of the piston and the bottom of the piston. That is one way it gets described. Of course, driving our A&P buddies crazy is another side-effect?it has that effect locally here too! ;)

Cheers,
Bob
 
Bob,
I noticed in one of your photos you have 300 ohm twin lead running down the engine mount, what's the purpose and how does it perform?
Regards
 
Bob,
I noticed in one of your photos you have 300 ohm twin lead running down the engine mount, what's the purpose and how does it perform?
Regards

Don,

That is a Howell Enterprises j-pole antenna for my APRS. It runs from there down the gear leg. I also have a bent-whip in my right wingtip for Comm 2, and have an MFG antenna switch under the panel which can switch Comm 2 and APRS between those antennae. The j-pole works surprisingly well there for APRS, even with the big titanium pole right there. The comm radio is fairly directional, and has some blank spots when using the j-pole in that location. Each does a little better when using the wingtip antenna. Always looking for ways to improve the hidden antenna program, if you have any thoughts! :)

Cheer,
Bob
 
Sorry can't help myself but I have to ask: can someone please remind me what the ACTUAL benefit is to adding all this "stuff" to your engine that has the potential of causing some very serious problems :confused: Please don't tell me to keep the belly clean.

OK.

The logical reason is a reduction in case air density, and the consequent reduction of parasitic pumping losses. For example, my IO390 pumps 390 cu inches of air through the center main bearing case web with every revolution (195 from the front to the rear case volume, then 195 back again). A 10% reduction in air density requires less power to pump, and supports less aerosol oil.

Same reason your airplane has less drag at altitude.
 
OK.

The logical reason is a reduction in case air density, and the consequent reduction of parasitic pumping losses. For example, my IO390 pumps 390 cu inches of air through the center main bearing case web with every revolution (195 from the front to the rear case volume, then 195 back again). A 10% reduction in air density requires less power to pump, and supports less aerosol oil.

Same reason your airplane has less drag at altitude.

Great theory but has anyone proven that it actually increases power in an aircraft application?

The real question is, is the risk vs benefit worth it?
 
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Bob,
I noticed in one of your photos you have 300 ohm twin lead running down the engine mount, what's the purpose and how does it perform?
Regards

Yeah! - - - I noticed that too, won't that big yagi be kinda draggy? I was thinking, that is REALLY old school.

Edit: Hey Bob I saw your answer after my post!. Interesting application.
 
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OK.

The logical reason is a reduction in case air density, and the consequent reduction of parasitic pumping losses. For example, my IO390 pumps 390 cu inches of air through the center main bearing case web with every revolution (195 from the front to the rear case volume, then 195 back again). A 10% reduction in air density requires less power to pump, and supports less aerosol oil.

Same reason your airplane has less drag at altitude.

You are killn' me here :D
 
Great theory but has anyone proven that it actually increases power in an aircraft application?

Great question!

Mr. Nimmo has twice claimed HP improvement...

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=865669&postcount=17

...here 5 to 8 HP...

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=726235&postcount=35

...and we all want to see the dyno record. How about it Allan?

Heck, even Vic thought he saw a seat-of-the-pants gain:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=742953&postcount=46

(Sorry buddy, the devil made me do it ;))

There are experiments ongoing right now.

The real question is, is the risk vs benefit worth it?

For some, clearly not. Others would like to pursue the matter, if it can be done with minimal risk, thus the safety valve.

You are killn' me here :D

How so?
 
My buddy who is also a member here (McFly) added the unit to his plane and says that he got about 150 RPM more static or maybe it was take off, I don't remember, but I know he was conscious of accurately recording the before and after results. He did, however, say that he didn't notice any speed increase on the top end. I have installed the unit, as well, well actually two units - one on each pipe, but have nothing to compare it to as I installed it on a new motor. Before installing them we played with the angle and depth of the tap into the pipe using a water manometer and a shop back blowing through the exhaust pipe. I can't remember for sure but I think the most we could get at any particular angle And/or depth was about 1.5 inches of water which isn't much but then again I'm guessing a 360 exhaust may flow more than a 5hp shop vac.
 
I highly recommend Anti Splat Aero's Air/Oil Seperator.
Currently installed on our RV6 with Lycoming 160 HP O-320 with constant speed prop.
Also the check valve that goes into one of the exhaust stacks.
Your oil consumption will go to almost zero and you will achieve extra horse power.
Also they have a unit for larger aircraft engines.
Check out their website videos.
AntiSplatAero.com
 
i play with big block fords on four wheels, and a common addition to these is a vacuum pump on the case, the idea being that the pistons do not have to push against anything on the power stroke

you gain about 5-10% horsepower with these (electric vacuum pumps)

maybe that's what you guys are experiencing with this?
 
i play with big block fords on four wheels, and a common addition to these is a vacuum pump on the case, the idea being that the pistons do not have to push against anything on the power stroke

you gain about 5-10% horsepower with these (electric vacuum pumps)

maybe that's what you guys are experiencing with this?
I'm with you in theory. But what rpm are these auto engines turning?? Not certain of the exact relationship, but guessing the drag would be related exponentially to the rpm.
 
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