Maybe a dumb question, electrical

Installing my ignition switch (RV9A) and noticed no screws came with the switch. I don't have the 1/4" #6 steel screws but was wondering if #6 stainless screws have the same conductivity as the steel. Can I still installed them without issues? Will there be any electrolysis issues that I could look forward to? Do you use a electrolytic grease on the screws or am I over thinking this? Just trying to keep all my ducks in a row or should I join the DUCKS in the pond!

Thanks

Ron

You are ok with the screws, the connection is made from the stakon on the wire and the tab on the switch. The screw simply holds the two in tension. Even brass would be ok. Corrosion is not a real problem with this area. Screw tension is, lock washers or loctite are your friends.

Bird

Electrical conductivity of SS screws

The screws main function is to hold the wire connector tightly against the switch lug. Since the electrical conductivity of SS and steel is low compared to the connector and the lug, the majority of the current will travel through the connectors, since current always takes the path of least resistance. I would not worry about corrosion since there is little electrical potential between the materials, it's in a low humidity environment, and these materials are fairly low on the chemical activity chart.

Thanks Mike and Bird, did you know there is another Bird in LA? I appreciate that. I get it! Forgot about the contact of the ring terminal to the metal mounting tab. I was focused to much on the screw instead of the function of the connectors. I did get some advice so I'll pass it on. I was told to use a lock washer too! I got plenty of internal lock washers. Also was a suggestion if I wanted to use a 1" long piece of shrink tubing to slide over the screw terminal so it's a tight fit and just shrink the first 1/4" over the wire, keeps screw from backing out of metal tang. If you have any tangs on the back of your ignition switch that will NOT be used put a small piece of shrink tubing over it and shrink it. Makes for a custom insulator.
Your DAR on this next thing May think differently but here's goes. It was suggested that I reconsider my wire run on the motor mount tubing for the P-Leads. What I did was come off the mag with my P-lead. Then I used a adel clamp around a small length of corrugated plastic tubing and fastened it to a small 1/4" stud on the engine about 5" away from the mag. (This next part I removed) then I used a plastic tie to secure my corrugated tubing to the upper tubing of the engine mount.Then my corrugated tubing with the P-leads went thru a hole on the firewall about mid center of the firewall and maybe 2" below forward deck at firewall. I was told to remove the plastic tie and use 2 adel clamps. One adel clamp around the engine mount tubing and another adel clamp to hold the corrugated tubing,these are now bolted together. Your tubing is now suspended. The clamps absorb vibration of the engine. My pass thru at the firewall is a VANS Pass thru item. It consists of a rubber grommet and two hALF pieces of pressed out stainless to cover rubber grommet. This was well liked. what I learned was either find somebody to direct you correctly on your wire runs or install a wire run and take a video of the run and then show it to a respected builder/DAR/exam inter/repeat builder,vans tech or somebody who's been there to give you guidance. But at least do something! Its either right or you have to fix it,either case you learn! But now Iam on my way to wire the panel back up. Powder coated and custom lettering applied to panel over the weekend. So finally I am making progress. Thanks everybody!

Ron in Oregon. RV9a. N421 HJ