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Squeezing rudder trailing edge rivets

TASEsq

Well Known Member
Patron
Hi all,

A question for those who chose to squeeze their rudder trailing edge rivets.

I have followed the process outlined here:http://tasrv10.com/?p=556

The angle was drilled early on in the rudder build, and has been holding the trailing edge together (I used the VHB tape).

I drilled out just under half the holes in the angle to accept a flat die that was thick enough to stop the squeezer hitting the angle.

On the top side I ground down a die to match the angle of the skins - I checked the angle of the die with a square and it looks ok - see a photo here https://photos.app.goo.gl/3PWERZeZPMV2GmEf6

The question:
I am able to use the 2 flat dies ok to partially set the rivets - due to the dies not coming close enough together, and the short length of the rivets, some are a little loose in the holes (will pop out slightly if you push the shop head, but these push back in when I apply the squeezer). Most the the shop heads squeeze slightly toward the trailing edge - just can?t get them to squeeze straight (I assume due to the shank not being perpendicular to the squeezer set but perpendicular to the chord of the wedge).

The issue comes when I try and use the angled die. I would have thought that as the die comes down, the thicker part would hit the rivet first and push it toward the front of the rudder and into the centre of the dimple - but the opposite is happening. All of the rivets are falling over toward the aft edge of the dimple. I got maybe 1 out of 25 in the centre. It feels like the squeezer it sliding toward the trailing edge as it comes together.

I ended up drilling all of them out and am seriously thinking this is just too hard and hoping for the best with the back riveting technique.

The reason I decided to try and squeeze them was that on the practice kit i found a the back riveting a bit difficult - I thought it was very hard to partially set the rivets without denting the skin as the collar of the back rivet set was in the way and it was hard to see what was going on. Also I had to place the trailing edge right on the very edge of my plate so the mushroom set could hang over the edge - was very worried if bending the trailing edge this way!)

Anyway I would appreciate any advice anyone has who has perfected the squeezing method - otherwise I?ll have a crack at the method Van?s suggests.

Thanks in advance.
 
What I did for my RV7 rudder trailing edge

Hi Trent,
I only squeezed my trailing edge rivets about half way with the squeezer. I then used a flat rivet set and backrivet plate to work my way to the final shop head.
It is not that hard. It is just one of those tasks that you have to take your time and be careful with. You can get a very good result this way.
I used the alternating rivet method, alternating the side the shop head was on all the way along the trailing edge.
This is a good skill to perfect. If you have the Vans practice airfoil kit, and have already built it, then get some practice drilling out rivets and drill out the trailing edge rivets, and practice with some new ones as many times as you need to before tackling your rudder.
I am away at the moment, but am happy to lend a hand when I return in about 2 weeks.
Cheers,
Joe
 
Thanks Joe,

Appreciate the offer!

I ended up doing as you suggested and drilled out the rivets on the airfoil kit a couple of times and learned how to backtivet. Moved onto the rudder and followed the instructions and it came out great - only 1 rivet needed drilling out (had the set half on the rivet). Once all finished, the middle of the span sat about 1/32 above a straight edge - not too bad apparently. No major waves. Phew.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YM9dSFyAac5Kvwrf7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jwBfYoFUap9L9Wkd7
 
Hi Trent,
I’m glad you took your time and did a bit of practice first. It is always safer to try something néw on something other than your “High value aircraft parts”. Looks good. It’s hard to get a good photo of that trailing edge.
I am in Frankston if you ever want to have a look at my 7 build. I am slowly working on the fuselage (sloooow build), but it’s a great challenge. Still learning lots. Just got my finish kit recently. That will keep me going for a long time while I save up for an engine.
Let me know if you need any help in the future.
 
Squeezing

Hi joe,

Great to see you're still building! Keep at it, I don't get over to Melbourne much any more but one day I might call in. We just decided yesterday to go to Avalon in February, so if you're out there on Friday or Saturday let's catch up for a beverage.

Trent,

Sorry that didn't work out for you. When I squeezed those rivets with the regular die, I had the pressure down and the squeezer adjusted such that they all did in fact set to the point where they were not loose at all. Then with the angled die, there was no particular technique required to get them properly set.

In any case, glad the Van's method worked out for you.

Cheers,

Adrian
 
Hi Adrian,
Busy working on the fuselage when I am home. Unfortunately I have been away from home a lot with work over the last 12 months, which has slowed my building down considerably, but still get out and work on it whenever I get the chance. Have been using some of my time away from home working on electrical system design (lots of learning still to do there!)
I have opened your build log lots over the last few years to track your progress. Looks like you are doing a superb job of your build.
Not sure which day I will get to Avalon, but will keep it in mind. I still have your mobile number, so if I get there on the Friday or Saturday, I will give you a call.
Cheers,
Joe
 
Trent,
I too used Adrian’s squeezer technique with VHB tape and it worked like a charm.
I did not experience either the initial “loose” set or the squeezer “sliding” during the final set.
It may be that was due to my use of smaller diameter dies. I used 3/8” diameter flat dies for the initial set, allowing the die on the shop head to get closer to the skin without touching the surface.
I also used a 3/8” diameter die to grind the angle for the final set.
Perhaps the reduced surface area helped prevent the squeezer from sliding.
In either case, I was very careful to align the flat die perfectly perpendicular to the manufactured head surface then ssssllllooowwwlllyyy tickled the squeezer actuator until the angled die was in contact with the shop head before actuating the final squeeze.

I found Adrian’s technique worked fine, and got a perfectly straight trailing edge with no scalloping.

P.S. Thanks Adrian for your fabulous blog! Loved your detailed description of the trailing edge squeezer technique; it was brilliant!
 
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