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Reusable oil filter

S16 instead of S15

Has anyone used the S16 version? My engine uses a 103-2 ( 13/16-16) threads. Seems to be identical to the s15 except for the threads.
 
Filter

I've read all of the threads but I'm still a little confused. We have an IO-360 angle valve that uses a 48108-1 filter. Will the S-15 filter work on this engine? I think we're going to be forced into making the change as filters just aren't available.
 
I've read all of the threads but I'm still a little confused. We have an IO-360 angle valve that uses a 48108-1 filter. Will the S-15 filter work on this engine? I think we're going to be forced into making the change as filters just aren't available.

yes it will
 
I've read all of the threads but I'm still a little confused. We have an IO-360 angle valve that uses a 48108-1 filter. Will the S-15 filter work on this engine? I think we're going to be forced into making the change as filters just aren't available.

Look here on your filter, if it is stamped 3.4.16 as this filter is, then YES the S-15 will screw right on providing the nipple is on the adapter and not the filter.
filter.JPGfilter1.JPG
 
Which of these K&P parts are needed to fit lyc 0320. ? Element and housing? AND Gasman I'm still laughing at your comment about your first assignment on this earth and in this case I also have no idea what I'm looking for !!!! Thanks

Yes, the S-15 (it is a complete unit) will fit an O320. You do need to install a nipple from your old filter onto the S-15, or purchase a new one... they are 3/4 X16. You can purchase two 3/4 X 16 jamb nuts at any hardware store to remove the nipple from the old filter.

BTW.... a decade and a half later, I was very pleased to find out that they came in so many different sizes....:D
 
Which of these K&P parts are needed to fit lyc 0320. ? Element and housing? AND Gasman I'm still laughing at your comment about your first assignment on this earth and in this case I also have no idea what I'm looking for !!!! Thanks

Dennis:

It depends on what O320 you have. Older Lycoming 320, like the one I have, use 48103 filter with a female 13/16 filter thread onto a Lycoming male oil filter adapter. Newer Lycoming engines use a 48110 filter that has a 3/4-16 male nipple on the filter and female adapter on the engine.

Aircraft_Oil_Filters.png
 
S15 vs S16

Dennis:

It depends on what O320 you have. Older Lycoming 320, like the one I have, use 48103 filter with a female 13/16 filter thread onto a Lycoming male oil filter adapter. Newer Lycoming engines use a 48110 filter that has a 3/4-16 male nipple on the filter and female adapter on the engine.

View attachment 30813


From the documents, you would need the S16 filter for a 13/16 thread. Same case as the S15, just a different filter cartridge. The S15 will not work if your old filter is a 48103, to confirm look at the original filter, the nipple size is stamped on the bottom most of them. I ran into this myself and currently waiting for a reply on availability of the F16 filter insert

From K&P:
Hi Jim,
Here is a link to the S16 which is the same size as the S15, but with a
13/16 size thread vs the 3/4 size thread.
https://kandpengineering.com/product/s16/ "
 
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Oil change interval

So, if you switch to the K&P setup do you need to go back to the 25 hour oil change interval instead of 50 for paper elements?
 
No, the K&P mesh filter has a constant filtration at 35 microns, which compares favorably to the average paper element that runs form 40-90 microns.

The 25 hour criteria was based on the original Lycoming design screen, which essentially stopped big stuff but was not a good particulate filter.
 
BJ much oil in the filter after oil drained? Much of a mess when removed ?

No messier than a 48110-1...I'd say it contains about 4-6oz, be prepared to dump the contents into a plastic trash bag, or whatever you use to catch the dribbles from your normal oil change.
.

What goes around, comes around …. This is pretty much the exact procedure every mechanic used when all engines had oil screens instead of spin-on, disposable filters back in “the day”….and yes, I am dating myself when I say that all my early airplanes had screens instead of filters.

It’s not rocket science…. ;)

Paul

I'd like to dig into this a bit more:

When I change my oil, the first thing I do is take a small punch and make a vent hole in the top of the filter housing. By the time the sump is drained, the filter is too. When I unscrew it, I have a paper towel in my hand to catch the one or two tiny drips. Not 4--6 oz. (edit: Note that I use a 48108 filter on a 90-degree angle adapter from Casper)

There is not enough room under the filter adapter to put much of any kind of container. I've seen people rig all manor of catch troughs, bags, etc. to try to catch the oil that spills out of the filter when you unscrew it. All a big pain compared to the punch-hole method.

Bob Japundza (RocketBob here) pointed out that the punch-hole drain allows dirty oil to drain back into the engine. But it goes back into the sump and drains with the rest of the dirty oil. The punch procedure is also recommended by the maker of the oil filter adapter. (Casper).

So, back to BH1166's question: How do you catch the oil that drains out of the housing when you unscrew it? Even if you put a bag around the whole thing, and it catches most of it, the whole filter adapter gets spilled oil all over it that has to get wiped off. It may not be rocket science, but it is an F-ing mess.

I wonder about putting a fitting in the top of the aluminum housing - maybe a brake bleeder nipple? Or just a small machine screw with an o-ring under the head? Something that one could open to vent the housing, then close off again?
 
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I'd like to dig into this a bit more:

When I change my oil, the first thing I do is take a small punch and make a vent hole in the top of the filter housing. By the time the sump is drained, the filter is too. When I unscrew it, I have a paper towel in my hand to catch the one or two tiny drips. Not 4--6 oz.

There is not enough room under the filter adapter to put much of any kind of container. I've seen people rig all manor of catch troughs, bags, etc. to try to catch the oil that spills out of the filter when you unscrew it. All a big pain compared to the punch-hole method.

Bob Japundza (RocketBob here) pointed out that the punch-hole drain allows dirty oil to drain back into the engine. But it goes back into the sump and drains with the rest of the dirty oil. The punch procedure is also recommended by the maker of the oil filter adapter. (Casper).

So, back to BH1166's question: How do you catch the oil that drains out of the housing when you unscrew it? Even if you put a bag around the whole thing, and it catches most of it, the whole filter adapter gets spilled oil all over it that has to get wiped off. It may not be rocket science, but it is an F-ing mess.

I wonder about putting a fitting in the top of the aluminum housing - maybe a brake bleeder nipple? Or just a small machine screw with an o-ring under the head? Something that one could open to vent the housing, then close off again?

In order to use your information Steve, we need to know which filter you use (110 or 108) and do you have a “straight back” oil filter adapter or an angle adapter. One filter uses an anti-drainback valve which traps oil in the filter, and the other doesn’t.

I’m afraid it does bug me when people say “I just punch a hole in the filter and let it drain before I spin it off…what’s the big deal?” When they don’t speak about the configuration, because it DOES make a huge difference (one method works with one configuration, but not the other), and just spreads confusion for inexperienced folks who say “but I’m doing just like the guy on the internet said, and I still make a mess….”

So give us your initial conditions so we can put the conclusions in context! :)
 
In order to use your information Steve, we need to know which filter you use (110 or 108) and do you have a “straight back” oil filter adapter or an angle adapter. One filter uses an anti-drainback valve which traps oil in the filter, and the other doesn’t.

I’m afraid it does bug me when people say “I just punch a hole in the filter and let it drain before I spin it off…what’s the big deal?” When they don’t speak about the configuration, because it DOES make a huge difference (one method works with one configuration, but not the other), and just spreads confusion for inexperienced folks who say “but I’m doing just like the guy on the internet said, and I still make a mess….”

So give us your initial conditions so we can put the conclusions in context! :)

Ah! Sorry, I didn't know they were different. I use a 108 filter, on a 90-degree angle adapter. Hope that helps.
 
For those with a horizontal mounted filter (standard) it doesn't matter the filter number, just punch a hole in the top of the filter, unscrew 180* IOW punched hole down, hang a cup under the filter and the filter will drain.
 
For those with a horizontal mounted filter (standard) it doesn't matter the filter number, just punch a hole in the top of the filter, unscrew 180* IOW punched hole down, hang a cup under the filter and the filter will drain.

Assuming there is room under the filter for a cup.

Back to my question - what do you guys think about putting a vent hole with a removable plug in the top of the aluminum housing? Maybe an AN3-3 with a copper washer?
 
Assuming there is room under the filter for a cup.

Back to my question - what do you guys think about putting a vent hole with a removable plug in the top of the aluminum housing? Maybe an AN3-3 with a copper washer?

You’re talking about the re-usable filters? I don’t see any reason why that wouldn’t work - it would relieve the suction, and since there is no anti-drawback-valve, should drain the housing completely on an angle adapter. No I haven’t yet done an oil change with the permanent on an angle adapter, so I don’t know if it drains itself without a vent hole anyways - will let you know when I do!

Paul
 
When I change my oil, the first thing I do is take a small punch and make a vent hole in the top of the filter housing. By the time the sump is drained, the filter is too. When I unscrew it, I have a paper towel in my hand to catch the one or two tiny drips. Not 4--6 oz. (edit: Note that I use a 48108 filter on a 90-degree angle adapter from Casper)/QUOTE]

There seems to be some misinformation somewhere unless my memory is off. Either here in the forum or in a Kitplanes article, Paul Dye indicated that 48108 filters have an anti-drainback valve that stops the oil in the filter from draining back to the sump, even if a vent hole is punched in the filter. Steve’s info seems to refute that. Or do I have my facts wrong?
 
I have the IO-320 with the angled oil filter adapter. Used the C10 filter housing that has a vent plug tapped on the top of the hex and an O ring AN plug. The filter element is FE-15. I don’t have the part number of the plug on hand but it was sourced from AS&S.
 

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Can someone explain what the nipple is used for?

We have an io-390 and screw on the 48108 filter as it comes out of the box.
 
Can someone explain what the nipple is used for?

We have an io-390 and screw on the 48108 filter as it comes out of the box.

It all depends on which oil filter housing you have. Some housing have a male threaded nipple on the housing that allow the filter(with a female threaded insert) to screw right on. Some housing have a female thread insert requiring the oil filter to have the male threaded nipple so the filter screws into the engine oil housing.
 
When I change my oil, the first thing I do is take a small punch and make a vent hole in the top of the filter housing. By the time the sump is drained, the filter is too. When I unscrew it, I have a paper towel in my hand to catch the one or two tiny drips. Not 4--6 oz. (edit: Note that I use a 48108 filter on a 90-degree angle adapter from Casper)/QUOTE]

There seems to be some misinformation somewhere unless my memory is off. Either here in the forum or in a Kitplanes article, Paul Dye indicated that 48108 filters have an anti-drainback valve that stops the oil in the filter from draining back to the sump, even if a vent hole is punched in the filter. Steve’s info seems to refute that. Or do I have my facts wrong?

My hypothesis - I suspect that what Steve is draining with his hole punch is the oil from the center of the filter - the oil that has already gone through the element from the outside in. The anti-drainback flapper valve prevents the oil from the outside of the element from draining back into the engine. Yes, oil will seep back through the element, but pretty slowly.

I recently drained a filter that I took of this exact configuration (a 108 filter with anti-drain back valve from an angle adapter), and propped open the ADBV to empty the case. It yielded almost 2 cups of oil that had been trapped in the filter! But only a little bit was dripping out of the center.

Paul
 
My hypothesis - I suspect that what Steve is draining with his hole punch is the oil from the center of the filter - the oil that has already gone through the element from the outside in. The anti-drainback flapper valve prevents the oil from the outside of the element from draining back into the engine. Yes, oil will seep back through the element, but pretty slowly.

I recently drained a filter that I took of this exact configuration (a 108 filter with anti-drain back valve from an angle adapter), and propped open the ADBV to empty the case. It yielded almost 2 cups of oil that had been trapped in the filter! But only a little bit was dripping out of the center.

Paul

Paul,
I punch the hole in the outer area of the canister.

Hmmm, when I cut the filter open, there is not much oil in it, but there is some. I always assumed that it was just what pools on the low side below the port where oil comes up from the filter housing.

But I suppose if the anti-drain back valve is working, then the outer part of the filter wouldn't drain and it wouldn't make any mess anyway. So perhaps even though I punch the hole in the outer part of the canister, it is venting air allowing oil to drain out of the center area as you suggest? It would also drain a fair bit of the oil outside the filter element, seeping through the element as you said, over the course of 45-minutes to an hour while I am draining the sump. It wouldn't have a path back to the sump though, would it? That path is pressurized by the pump. It must drain out through all the oil galleys?

Either way, it sure eliminates all the mess. And like I said, this is the procedure recommended by Casper Labs.
 
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Assuming there is room under the filter for a cup.

Back to my question - what do you guys think about putting a vent hole with a removable plug in the top of the aluminum housing? Maybe an AN3-3 with a copper washer?

If the aluminum housing is thick enough, I would tap it for a 1/8" pipe plug.
 
The 25 hour criteria was based on the original Lycoming design screen, which essentially stopped big stuff but was not a good particulate filter.

My engine builder refers to the original Lycoming screen as a "gravel catcher."

- mark
 
Good luck with the stainless screen filter. Here is a post by a BMW user that collapsed the filter even though a bypass is built into that specific engine system.

Our Lyc oil inlet suction screens may block all the carbon particles, so just be aware of this possibility.

This engine is a turbocharged engine but also uses full synthetic oil.
View attachment 27822

That filter model doesn't have an integral bypass, so it's relying on the vehicle's. I'd assume paper media would fair the same or worse given the insane amount of buildup. I've never seen an amount of junk in any filter I've cut open.

Just finished my first ~50 hr run on the K&P oil filter and it still looks brand new. No evidence of failure or bypass. I also have my oil pressure bumped up as recommended for valve lube. Filter inspection, so far, is similar to paper filters. Though less messy. Awaiting oil analysis for more further review
 
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Yes, but keep in mind that is a pressure vessel, reused, and from a material with no fatigue limit. There are pulsations in the pressure inherent to a gear or lobe pump.

But agree, if thick enough the stresses would be low and work fine.

My airport manager sold his RV7a and gave be his oil drain tool. It is a piece of sheet metal, about 30" long and curved like a gutter. Slightly tapered, it is pushed through all the clutter from the right side to reside under the contact faces of the oil filter and housing. It drains out the side to a bucket. He says it has never lost a drop in the engine compartment. I will take a picture and a new post in the future. It will likely only work for the straight back filter style, but don't know for sure.

Here is my set up, I don't loose a drop. Not my idea but copied from a VAF member. PVC pipe was from a Van's shipment.

.
 

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So...

Looking at the pro's and con's of both the Challenger and the K & P, my sum up is this

Challenger

Easy on and off with a wrench
Safety wire holes already in
More expensive than a K & P

K & P

Get the right combination of housing and filter for your engine
No wrench fitting
No safety wire holes
Cheaper


Next - There are several mentions of the lack of a bypass on these filters - is this a concern, or is it as someone said for the thick oil cold start case, so why is that different ? Presumably because the stainless is more resilient ?

Cleaning doesn't seem to be an issue, the payback is within 4 or 5 oil changes - we change at 25 hours or 6 months - don't forget the calendar recommendation for oil changes.

Finally - our filter is a 48108-2

What would be the appropriate combination for a K & P ?
 
I have done some digging and I think the -2 is a Tempest reference

Same as the Champion -1

Is this correct ?
 
K & P
Get the right combination of housing and filter for your engine
Yes. Champion filter: CH 48110 would be the S-15
No wrench fitting
Comes with a "wrench" that fits the end of the filter. Plenty of room to remove it.
No safety wire holes
Took me 15 minutes total including figuring out where they went and deburring the holes...:p
. Yep.
There are several mentions of the lack of a bypass on these filters -
I believe there is a relief valve on these units.
Finally - our filter is a 48108-2
What would be the appropriate combination for a K & P ?
Not sure but it might be the S-15. Research that; it is probably on this forum somewhere....
 
I have seen this filter with 13/16-16 threads used on older Lycoming engines.
My O-320-E2D has 13/16-16 threads. My best guess is that the engine is old enough that someone stripped the stock 3/4-16 threads, and had to drill/tap out to the next size up. That's an excellent price for the S16, I paid double that to get one in Canada. Still cheaper than the Aviation equivalent.
 
My O-320-E2D has 13/16-16 threads. My best guess is that the engine is old enough that someone stripped the stock 3/4-16 threads, and had to drill/tap out to the next size up. That's an excellent price for the S16, I paid double that to get one in Canada. Still cheaper than the Aviation equivalent.

I purchased a used adapter for my old 1960's vintage narrow deck and it used the 13/16-16 male thread. I also purchased a 360 core engine from the 80's and it also had the 13/16-16 thread oil filter adapter. When I traded an old screen for an spin on filter adapter a few years back, it had the more common 3/4-16 female threads that is coming with all the newer engines.
 
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Any Oil Pressure Change?

The Kitplanes article said the Challenger and K&P permanent filters are less restrictive of oil flow. For those who've used either, has your oil pressure changed?
 
I use a HUBB oil filter, 3" and has a 3/4" NPT female thread. Just cleaned yesterday for the first time. I also have a spare element so i can just swap elements. Available on Amazon or NAPA.

https://hubbfilters.com/

Keith Rhea
RV7
2023 donation
 
The Kitplanes article said the Challenger and K&P permanent filters are less restrictive of oil flow. For those who've used either, has your oil pressure changed?

It shouldn't, as the pressure is regulated by a ball / spring downstream of the filter and once off idle, your pump should be making a lot more pressure than is used by this regulator. If your pressure goes up with this filter, you probably have a weak oil pump and operating near the fringes. I could see this increasing pressure at idle, where the pump is typically not making excess pressure and using everything that the pump delivers.
 
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I use a HUBB oil filter, 3" and has a 3/4" NPT female thread. Just cleaned yesterday for the first time. I also have a spare element so i can just swap elements. Available on Amazon or NAPA.

https://hubbfilters.com/

Found it on ebay, looks like model 3204. Interesting ...filter within a filter. Please let us know your cleaning (and other experience) with this filter. Do you have their cleaning station as well?
 
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Here is my set up, I don't loose a drop. Not my idea but copied from a VAF member. PVC pipe was from a Van's shipment.
And there I was, thinking I was the only one using a PVC pipe. Great minds and all that... :p

ds
 
Probably a repeat-This was covered in Kitplanes. the S15 is the 48108 and if you buy a 3/4-16 male adaptor for it it becomes a 48110.

Whoa big guy.

The difference between a 48108 and 48110 is more than the nipple.

A 48108 filter has an internal pressure relief bypass, and thus requires a filter adapter without a pressure relief valve. A common example would be a B&C right angle.

A 48110 filter does not have an internal pressure relief. It must be used with a filter adapter incorporating a pressure relief. The common example would be the standard horizontal adapter from Lycoming.
 
Whoa big guy.

The difference between a 48108 and 48110 is more than the nipple.

A 48108 filter has an internal pressure relief bypass, and thus requires a filter adapter without a pressure relief valve. A common example would be a B&C right angle.

A 48110 filter does not have an internal pressure relief. It must be used with a filter adapter incorporating a pressure relief. The common example would be the standard horizontal adapter from Lycoming.

Can you clarify for me? I understood the S15 would be a drop in replacement for the 48108. Is it potentially not? If so, what exactly would I be looking for where I screw the filter on? (FWIW I have an Aerosport Power 0-320-D2A with the oil filter pointing aft toward the firewall recess.)
 
Can you clarify for me? I understood the S15 would be a drop in replacement for the 48108. Is it potentially not? If so, what exactly would I be looking for where I screw the filter on? (FWIW I have an Aerosport Power 0-320-D2A with the oil filter pointing aft toward the firewall recess.)

Well, does the S15 have an internal pressure relief valve?
 
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