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Oil Cooler Standoff

Bootscooter

Active Member
Hi All,

To Help out oil temps on my IO-375 I wish to install a standoff between no 4 cylinder aft baffle and the cooler.

From those that have been there befo does anyone have any pics or ideas of the best way to do this?

Also is there an ideal distance from the baffle, and. Ave heard it should also be tilted down, is there any reason for this?

Cheers Chad
 
I am also installing a IO-375, however haven´t any experience for the oil cooler requirements. I go however with a larger cooler, 9 row instead of the supplied 7 row from Vans. This seems to be the largest I can install with only slight modifications on my RV-7. The engine mount is in the way no matter how I turn the cooler.
Are you flying already? I really would like to hear how is the IO-375 performing and what are the temperatures.


IMG_0338edit.jpg



IMG_0418edit.jpg
 
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I isolated my standard vans cooler with a layer of baffle seal material. Even with a shutter, running fully closed most of the time, my oil temps are still on the cool side.
I did this during the build so I have no data for comparison.
 
oil cooler offset

We used the part that Robbie Attaway makes and sells. It is designed for the SW8432 dual pass cooler and moves the oil cooler back about 2" and over about 1.5". High quality stainless steel part. It works on both the RV6 and our RV7a with the 360 series engines, but it is tight (engine mounts and cowling clearance). no idea if it will work on your engine. So far this combo has really helped our oil cooling but the temps have been moderate.

http://www.attawayair.com/
 
move away

I am just installing the cooler on the firewall with a kit from Vans. This avoids the cross bracing for structure on the baffles. I should have some pictures soon if you are interested.
 
Same Problem

I am in the same situation with the 375. I already drilled my prop and mixture holes in the firewall so a firewall mounted cooler isn't an option. I want to ether hang a larger cooler in the same spot as Vans calls out or go with an engine mount/plenum solution similar to Jason Beavers .
http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/2011/12/worked-on-wings-and-oil-cooler.html



In the link from the quote below I can't find the stand off you are referring to.. Please advise. thx


We used the part that Robbie Attaway makes and sells. It is designed for the SW8432 dual pass cooler and moves the oil cooler back about 2" and over about 1.5".

http://www.attawayair.com/


Any other options? I am concered of the extra weight (vibration) on the baffles, but it does look like SuperCubDriver has a fairly good fit/solution.

Any other thoughts on this?

Thanks
 
I replaced the Vans standard cooler with the SW8406R as 100% of feedback says that this cooler runs 30 deg C cooler. It is still a seven row cooler and Bart says that the engine requires a nine row, the only way I can see that you can get a nine row cooler in there is to do something like Jason Beaver has done. Although I have also seen several posts suggesting there is a loss of flow when you duct to a firewall mounted installation.

Super cub driver's install looks very neat, I don't know why but that just won't fit on my 7.

Robbie attaway is on holidays at the moment and did say he would he back to me upon return about the standoff, I have seen these on other aircraft and looks like they would not only run cooler as they are a bit further from the hot cylinder but clears the engine mount as well.

I am yet to fly so can't say how it's going but we should all keep in touch to share info.

Rgs Chad
Sydney Australia
 
Moved to the Firewall

Group:

I struggled with the oil cooler and oil temps on my 7A for a while. Engine is an IO360-A1B6. I started with the standard oil cooler from Vans. Upgraded to a larger cooler twice. I don't remember which cooler I ended up with at the end. I'll have to look back and see. (Maybe one that Alex? was selling)

Anyway, the real point of the post is that I had to move the "larger" cooler off the baffle and onto the firewall. I repaired , reinforced, added braces, etc. a couple of times but I couldn't keep the flanges on the baffle material from cracking with the larger cooler attached. After building the -10, I just bit the bullet and moved the cooler to the firewall similar to the -10 setup.

Just another point of reference for you as these larger engines may take more to cool. Seems that the 200 hp -A1B6 has been more difficult to cool than the 180hp -A1A.

Doug
 
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Here is some more information on my oil cooler installation. I used a beefy aluminum angle in the corner of the #4 baffles. I rounded the corner to let it nest in the curvature of the baffles. There is a screw going through this angle into the cylinder head, this should take some load or vibration off the baffles. On top of this angle is a reinforcement bracket which should serve as a load path to the angle and baffle on the side. Inside I used another short piece of aluminum angle where the inner nutplates for the cooler are riveted on and the other side of the angle I can use to direct the load to another place on the cylinder head or somewhere on the crankcase.
I placed the cooler as high as possible and as far to the left as possible. I used the space at the round corner between the side and rear baffle as air path for the first row in the cooler.
Remember this installation is not proven, I only used the information I got on this forum.
Here are some more pics:

IMG_0435edit.jpg


IMG_0436edit.jpg
 
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Additional oil cooler 101

So I did a bit of research and thought I would post here. This is specific to audience of this thread:

8432R and 10599R are exact same size oil coolers and both have 8 tubes.

8432R (or clone) is a Dual Pass cooler, meaning the oil flows up 4 tubes, then back down the other 4 tubes before it exits. Supposedly more efficient. Also it has an oil entry/exit on each side of the cooler at the same end, doesn't matter which way it goes or which way it faces, other than you should put the tubes at the bottom for drainage.

10599R (or clone) is a single Pass cooler meaning the oil goes in and then flows once through all 8 tubes. This has an oil entrance/exit both on the same side.

The 20006A from Niagra is the 13 bay cooler used on RV-10s.. Bart recommended it for the 375, but it really is a huge cooler and probably can only be mounted on the firewall. I don't see why a 13 bay would be needed here, but it is what he recommended.

Super Cub driver, what is the model of your 9 tube cooler shown in this thread?

Thanks
 
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