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Bandsaw Question

Gcoco

I'm New Here
So, I'm trying to make a decision on the purchase of a bandsaw. From just doing a little bit of research online, it seems that the smaller, more inexpensive models such as the Ryobi 10" model that's sold at Home Depot aren't meant to be used for cutting metal, although they do offer a metal cutting blade for it. It also appears to only run at one speed. Any suggestions and info anyone could provide would be helpful!! Thanks in advance, getting excited to begin my first build!
 
The Ryobi got me through my first build, doing a great job on my second. The stock setup is fine for aluminum and wood. The blades dull quickly so get spares.

A variable speed unit will let you slow down the blade for steel but there isn't much steel cutting in an RV kit.

Also, on that note, don't go after a piano hinge wire with the Ryobi, will immediately dull your blade :eek:
 
I don't think anything special is needed, just be prepared to buy plenty of metal-cutting blades. I use a "vintage" Craftsman 12" bandsaw that I got second- or third-hand off of Craigslist for about $40, and it's been a super reliable workhorse. Great for cutting little aluminum tubes and angle pieces. You just have to keep a sharp blade ready to go, especially after cutting steel which tends to quickly dull the blades I use.

450px-Crafstman_12_inch_Bandsaw.jpg

This is not mine but what mine looks like.
 
I use a 6.5 tpi wood blade on aluminum. It's slightly rough but works very well. A width of 1/4" lets me make curved cuts but if you don't need that, a wider blade would be better for straight cuts.

Dave
 
The blade

I also use a vintage 12" Craftsman. The blade is the difference between good performance and not. At my day job(airline sheetmetal shop) years ago, we made all our blades for the big bandsaws from bulk spools, and I saved the 80" "scraps" to make a bunch of my own. If you can find a local shop that has commercial saws with a blade welder, it takes only minutes to make them.
 
I use a 6.5 tpi wood blade on aluminum. It's slightly rough but works very well. A width of 1/4" lets me make curved cuts but if you don't need that, a wider blade would be better for straight cuts.

Dave

I used the same for 8 yrs of my build. It was a $50 9" NOS from lowes. My Rikon is much better. I made a rip fence so the thin material would not go under it. It cut pretty straight then. Aluminum only!!

It is said that tooth spacing won't work, but the first blade lasted 6 yrs. It becomes dull for wood or plastic but fine for high strength aluminum. Soft 6061 is a bit gooey and generates a lot of heat. I don't know why one uses that on an airplane but, FYI.

One warning - be sure you keep the tires clean, and use a vacuum to pull the chips out. That is the #1 issue as it increases tension on the blade as the build up increases diameter.
 
TPI

I use a 6.5 tpi wood blade on aluminum. It's slightly rough but works very well. A width of 1/4" lets me make curved cuts but if you don't need that, a wider blade would be better for straight cuts.

Dave

Same here. Mine is a 9" Harbor Fright. No problem. Only replaced one blade.
Many disagree, but I cut .040 and thicker with a 7tpi. Thinner is 14tpi. Cuts like a hot knife through butter nd doesn't get hot. Yes, it leaves lots of tooling marks so cut outside the line and dress the edge to the cut line on a sander or scotchbrite wheel.
Keep the hinge pins away from a bandsaw unless you want a new blade. I use a dremel cut off wheel.
 
When they say “metal”, they mean steel. Aluminum cuts fine with a wood-cutting blade. Skip-tooth, hook blade, or similar coarse blade for wood.
 
I have also been using the Ryobi 9" with the default blade that came with it. Has been working fine thus far (just starting on the tail cone). Tried on some test pieces at first and was happy with it. As others said, it's not the smoothest cut, but have gotten used to cutting just outside the line and touching up with belt/disc sander and deburring wheel on the bench grinder.

Figured I would replace the blade when/if it gets dull, and it's probably starting to get there about now, but it still works.

The 9" reach is a little short for some of the longer pieces, so for those I either use a hand hacksaw or cutoff wheels in an angle grinder, mitre saw, dremel or whatever works for the size of the part for those longer pieces.
 
I have a 14" delta bandsaw. It works fine. I had it before I started on the plane so I use it. In reality the metal that you will be cutting is very light and almost any bandsaw should work. I use mine for cutting 3/4" angle mostly. There are a few heavier cuts that are required but very few.

One cheap tool that I would suggest is a HF 1" belt sander. These are very cheap and I use mine all the time to finish off those bandsaw cuts.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-61728.html

It looks like they have gone up in price but like all HF stuff they usually have sales so you could keep an eye out. I think I only paid $29 but it was a while ago. Even so I would pay the full price in a minute.
 
Bandsaw

Thanks for all the responses!! I went ahead and got the Ryobi today at HD.
I also bought some extra blades as well and will prob get some of the Boelube for the blades. Finishing the airfoil kit right now and hope to start the actual build in a few weeks.
 
If the extra blades you got are the stock wood blades, you'd be better off ordering some blades for metal. They're cheap and cut the thicker aluminum parts like a hot knife through butter. Way too cheap to miss out on this big performance improvement. You'll notice it as soon as you try to cut 1/8" thick pieces. Got mine in Canada through R&D Bandsaws.
 
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