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Jet Shades

N42AH

Well Known Member
Anyone opted to buy these pricey shades for you RV-10?



They look nice and look like they might work...just wondering.
 
I sent away for info but didn’t follow up with it, here’s the reply I got:

Thank you for your email. We do have a prototype for the RV10 but we never had the chance to test fit it. If you want help us a bit, we can ship you the prototype to test it. If they fit properly, we would need 2-3 business days to create and ship you the final shades. If small adjustment is needed, you can email us pictures of the template install and we’ll do the modifications. You will receive an instruction booklet with the template to help you true this process.

Price for the two sides cockpit windows is $599.00 and $999.00 for the cockpit and rear passenger windows + shipping fee for the final shades. (Around $30.00.) we are taking care of the shipping for the template.

Please let me know if you would like to procced.
 
Bruce cockpit cover for a -10 is about 375 dollars. Great for either day or overnight stays and it’s easy to get on/off. It also covers the entire cockpit so protects the canopy and plexiglass. Also Buy a car sun shade pair, the large window size. Stores great in the seats rear pocket. The two shade will cover the entire windscreen and leading edges of the door, about 15 dollars. You into it for 400 and have better protection.
 
The purpose behind my original question was when in flight the amount a heat/radiated is impressive in my 10. Lots of greenhouse effect. I am looking for ways to combat/overcome South Carolina heat.

Last year I had installed an Airflow air-conditioning and the system works great with lots of cold air and volume. What I want to do is help the A/C not to have to work so hard. The first thought is to stop the radiated heat from the massive windows. I purchased this aircraft flying, so I am working backwards in some cases on fixing stuff in general.

Considerations are severely limiting the rear windows heat with Jet shades or something similar. My mission is generally 2 passengers and all "her" stuff in the back. Another though is adding engine side and cabin side insulation to firewall, it's just a bare firewall now. I have already disconnected the rear seat scat tubing at the fire wall, and dumping that heated air back into the engine compartment. I have taped off the front heat vents to try and stop heat migration when the heat valve is closed. This aircraft has the best heating system I have run into lately, flying in the winter is very comfy especially for mama. All in an effort to reduce radiated heat migrating into the cabin. Again to make it easier on the A/C. Less warm air to try and cool by the A/C.

So that is the direction this is headed and I am looking for suggestions and recommendations from this well informed group.

Thanks
 
I’ve been doing some research here too. I only have 70 hours on my RV10, but its uncomfortably hot, even here in NJ.

A fellow RV10 builder purchased some tint - the kind with no adhesive that is OK for plexiglass. The issue is that this type of tint is thicker and there is some distortion when looking through it... so its not ideal for the windows on the doors.

There is JustPlaneTint that has a kit for RV10s. My fear is that its similar to the one mentioned above that can be purchased at AutoZone for $20
https://justplanetint.com/collections/aircraft-kits/products/vans-rv-10-plane-tint

I’m kicking myself for not installing AC.
 
I installed “static cling” window tinting. They have various shading but the 20 percent works for me. Before my -10 I did it on my Saratoga and looked good and lasted for years. Since the -10 windows have a radius they are much more difficult to pattern cut, fit and install the tinting, especially the door plexiglass. But it is very doable. If your -10 has the outside glassing over the windows you can use the lip to make a pattern on the outside. I did not glass in the outside of the windows so I was unable to do it. You can pay to have it done, but make sure only static cling tinting, nothing sharp around the plexiglass ie cutting directly on the plexiglass, and what not to step on. Oh and it both makes it cool on the inside and looks cooler on the outside. Doing it yourself is about 30 dollars and you will need two rolls 24 inch wide.
 
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Where do you get the static cling tint mentioned?

Autozone - made by GILA. $20 for a box. Just make sure its the static cling version. You dont want anything with adhesive on plexiglass. I think it comes in 5%, 20% and perhaps 35%
 
Last year I had installed an Airflow air-conditioning and the system works great with lots of cold air and volume. What I want to do is help the A/C not to have to work so hard.

Which evaporator version did you use? I installed the larger unit with cabin flood vents. Those do most the cooling, the little overhead vents help out a lot because they're 5" from your head.
 
I installed “static cling” window tinting. They have various shading but the 20 percent works for me. Before my -10 I did it on my Saratoga and looked good and lasted for years. Since the -10 windows have a radius they are much more difficult to pattern cut, fit and install the tinting, especially the door plexiglass. But it is very doable. If your -10 has the outside glassing over the windows you can use the lip to make a pattern on the outside. I did not glass in the outside of the windows so I was unable to do it. You can pay to have it done, but make sure only static cling tinting, nothing sharp around the plexiglass ie cutting directly on the plexiglass, and what not to step on. Oh and it both makes it cool on the inside and looks cooler on the outside. Doing it yourself is about 30 dollars and you will need two rolls 24 inch wide.

I plan to put the Gila 20% on the rear windows and considering it on the door windows. Did you notice any optical clarity issues with the 20% on the door windows?

I understand the 35% version is thinner with less distortion, however, it seems to be no longer available anywhere.

Larry
 
With the tinting it is darker, but about the same view as a car window being tinted. I found the 20 percent nice. Keeps the sun from baking you but still sufficient for night ops. Search U Tube videos for tint installation and go to the Gila WEB page which has install video. There is a U Tube video of someone having the rear windows in their RV -10 done by a company. The doors are a major pain because of the radius. Would be much easier with the door on the workbench but I was too lazy to remove it. Plan a hour or so per window and maybe a few explicit words but if you do your homework first it’s well worth it. Very positive response from my co pilot on the difference it makes. You may even want to ditch that AC afterwards. But probably not!
 
Tint

I installed the Gila 5% on the back windows. It looks great but there is some distortion when looking out. I installed the 20% on the right side door window, which is a royal pain but very doable with good results. I found the 20% on the door window to be unacceptable to me as far as the clarity through it and I think too dark for night ops so I pulled it off. Still looking for alternatives for the door windows though.
 
Thanks for the input. Very frustrating that gila discontinued the 35% version. I understand that clarity was much better.

Larry
 
AirFlow

Which evaporator version did you use? I installed the larger unit with cabin flood vents. Those do most the cooling, the little overhead vents help out a lot because they're 5" from your head.


Justin
I got the Aussie evaporator...bigger is always better. Also got the extra/high speed blower for the overhead vents. Have two cabin flood vents in the rear bulkhead and 6 overhead vents of which I only use 2. From my waist up things are comfortable...not cold but comfortable.
 
Justin
I got the Aussie evaporator...bigger is always better. Also got the extra/high speed blower for the overhead vents. Have two cabin flood vents in the rear bulkhead and 6 overhead vents of which I only use 2. From my waist up things are comfortable...not cold but comfortable.

Steve - how difficult was it to install the AC?
 
AirFlow A/C Install

Steve - how difficult was it to install the AC?
I worked with Bill at AirFlow to use one of his proven installers. All I want to do is turn it off and on...not to do the install in my existing RV-10.
The gentleman that did the install is Arnold Holmes @ AV Mech 352-617-2029 in Florida. Excellent work and very clean install.
 
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