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RV-6A buying questions

Dugaru

Well Known Member
Hi all --

I'm in the market for a used RV6-A, and would love some advice from the experts specific to finding good examples of this model. I've read the "Buying a Used RV" piece from Vans, and a few other articles, but wanted to really zero in on this specific plane.

As background to how I've ended up here bugging you all, I've got a little under 1,000 total PIC hours. After owning a Warrior for about 8 years, I've been partners in the past year in a taildragger Sportsman 2+2. It was built in their "Two Weeks to Taxi" program and we bought it used from the "builder." I love that plane. In addition to being a joy to fly, it also has aweome avionics (AFS 4500 & 3500, Garmin 530W, 430W, Vizion autopilot) that MORE than meet my "gentleman's IFR" needs. I was actually pretty happy with the steam gauges, S-Tec 30, and "classic" Garmin 430 in the Warrior.

Unfortunately, however, we're undergoing an amicable Sportsman-divorce because my partner (who owns 2/3) has to relocate due to work. Given the nature of the job change, which is a huge opportunity, I can't even get mad at him. Another Sportsman appears to be beyond my solo budget.

After doing some research, the RV6-A looks perfect for me. I'm already convinced that used experimentals can be a huge bargain for a bunch of reasons (the Sportsman certainly was). Two seats are all I need -- I almost never used the four seats in the Warrior. Some speed would certainly be nice, as the Warrior lacked in that department. And the other two-seat used experimentals available in quantity out there don't really appeal to me. For example, I've got a bit of Glasair time and it doesn't seem like a good plane to get old in, ingress/egress wise. :)

We flew the Sportsman for a while as a trike, and managed to shred a nosewheel pant, so I'm already used to some of the vagaries of castering nosegear. I think a trike RV makes sense for me, as (unlike my Sportsman partner) I fly a lot of cross country trips, at night and in gusty weather -- and I have only enough taildragger time to keep the insurance company happy. This was a solvable problem while I was splitting the Sportsman, because it was awesome in so many other ways, but if I'm going to own a plane solo, I figure I'd de-complicate my life.

Building really isn't an option, as I don't have enough time to build my own RV -- and in any event (another) buddy and I are already building a Zenith 801, at what can only be called a very leisurely pace, dictated by our various commitments.

So, enough about me, let's talk about solving my problems. :) I know enough to be dangerous about buying and owning airplanes, including buying used experimentals. I'm reasonably confident I've found the right plane for my mission. As I launch myself out again into the world of used experimentals, what should I be on the lookout for specific to RV6-As? Any known problem areas, places where some builders tend to screw up, etc.? Any other aspects of the used RV market that I ought to know about?

Apologies for the lengthy post, and many thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers
Doug Garrou
W96 - New Kent County, VA
 
There is more variability among RV6 quality.

The RV6 was the last "make a lot yourself" model. Quality will naturally vary. Granted, there are later pre punched versions and quick build fuselages, etc, but I can personally attest to factory mistakes there too. I fixed four quickbuild assembly errors on my own RV6-A fuselage. It's a great airplane and you'll get a lot for your money. Just get a pre buy inspection. Vans Aircraft lists service bulletins for each model.
 
Buying an RV6A is just like buying a certified plane. It seams you have done that before, but I don't know what process you have used. For me it is

Scan all of the normal sources, Find a few that meet your requirements, Get a pre-buy from a knowledgeable person (This is the only part that varies from a certified plane).

There are too many variables to list here, so it really bois down to having a good inspection on the plane(s) you find to determine if there are any issues. For example: Just because a plane does not have the nose wheel AD complete should not disqualify it. You just factor correcting that into your purchase price/decision. The only hard rule I would consider is the engine. I personally would not look at a plane with a non-aviation engine. Non certified is OK, but a Subaru derivative would stop me looking any further.
 
Getting into a -6A of your own

I purchased last March. Glad I did!

Since you've decided on a 6, and where you want that pesky third wheel, you've got some things left to consider:

Engine: 150/160/180
Prop: FP/CS Wood/Metal 2 or 3 blade
Canopy: Tip-up/Slider
Panel: Steam/Glass
Interior: Basic cloth and metal OR Awesome leather and full carpet/leather side panels
Paint: basic OR superflashy

How much do you want in your as-purchased vs after purchase adds?

For me, I BOUGHT a nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP wood 2 blade, Tipper with partial glass, VFR only.

It is now a very nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP Catto 3 blade, Tipper with glass for PFD and steam engine gauges, IFR capable, and Awesome leather and carpet everywhere. Sometime before 2020 it will be full glass

So with that example of deciding what you want to look for, you can do a lot of websurfing (TradeAPlane, Barnstormers, VAF :) ) and you'll find some candidates.

A good pre-buy is key. Depending on where the bird currently flies it can be easy or a little of an issue to find someone to do it right. There's often someone looking on this forum for pre-buys.

Also of importance: check those operating limitations.

Enjoy the search and ask, ask, ask.
 
The only hard rule I would consider is the engine. I personally would not look at a plane with a non-aviation engine. Non certified is OK, but a Subaru derivative would stop me looking any further.

I'm with you there. Different strokes (so to speak) for different folks, but I want a Ly-Con-osaurus.
 
So of course I'm still asking :)

1. I confess I don't know much about wooden props. Are they suitable for IFR work? I end up in light rain pretty often.

2. I think I could go either way with respect to CS or FP props, so that factor probably wouldn't rule candidates out one way or the other. I can live with the performance of a FP and I suppose they're a bit cheaper to operate over time.

2. From what I've read the tip-up/slider debate doesn't seem to be a game changer, but I'm ready to be convinced otherwise.

3. Having flown for years behind a 160 O-320, that seems like sort of a natural choice, especially since the RV carries slightly less fuel than the Warrior. Again, I suspect I could be talked into the right plane with an O-360.

4. I'm almost completely indifferent to cosmetics. I consider this a major advantage as a buyer. :)

Overall, I think I'm probably looking for at least basic IFR (steam gauges and ancient, though certified, GPS would be fine).

I'm reasonably confident I can't live without a 2-axis autopilot, but I haven't the foggiest idea how hard it might be to retrofit one. Fortunately $-Tec won't be the only game in town. :)

Thanks to all for the great info!!

I purchased last March. Glad I did!

Since you've decided on a 6, and where you want that pesky third wheel, you've got some things left to consider:

Engine: 150/160/180
Prop: FP/CS Wood/Metal 2 or 3 blade
Canopy: Tip-up/Slider
Panel: Steam/Glass
Interior: Basic cloth and metal OR Awesome leather and full carpet/leather side panels
Paint: basic OR superflashy

How much do you want in your as-purchased vs after purchase adds?

For me, I BOUGHT a nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP wood 2 blade, Tipper with partial glass, VFR only.

It is now a very nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP Catto 3 blade, Tipper with glass for PFD and steam engine gauges, IFR capable, and Awesome leather and carpet everywhere. Sometime before 2020 it will be full glass

So with that example of deciding what you want to look for, you can do a lot of websurfing (TradeAPlane, Barnstormers, VAF :) ) and you'll find some candidates.

A good pre-buy is key. Depending on where the bird currently flies it can be easy or a little of an issue to find someone to do it right. There's often someone looking on this forum for pre-buys.

Also of importance: check those operating limitations.

Enjoy the search and ask, ask, ask.
 
I hadn't thought about that "make it yourself" aspect before -- I suspect that puts a premium on having a knowledgeable RV-er doing the prepurchase inspection.

Used RV6s really do look like good values, at least from this distance.

I'll check out the SBs, that's a good tip.

Thanks!
Doug

The RV6 was the last "make a lot yourself" model. Quality will naturally vary. Granted, there are later pre punched versions and quick build fuselages, etc, but I can personally attest to factory mistakes there too. I fixed four quickbuild assembly errors on my own RV6-A fuselage. It's a great airplane and you'll get a lot for your money. Just get a pre buy inspection. Vans Aircraft lists service bulletins for each model.
 
So of course I'm still asking :)

I'm reasonably confident I can't live without a 2-axis autopilot, but I haven't the foggiest idea how hard it might be to retrofit one. Fortunately $-Tec won't be the only game in town. :)

Thanks to all for the great info!!

Good news! I just pulled an AP-1, servos, and Alt Hold from my 6A, I've replaced it with the Dynon Servos and AP-74.

So if you find one that "just needs Auto-Pilot" you'll get a good deal on an old but fully functional (~400hrs) AP setup!
 
Obviously I've come to the right place. :) Would retrofitting an autopilot in a 6A be painful surgery, or is it fairly straightforward?

Good news! I just pulled an AP-1, servos, and Alt Hold from my 6A, I've replaced it with the Dynon Servos and AP-74.

So if you find one that "just needs Auto-Pilot" you'll get a good deal on an old but fully functional (~400hrs) AP setup!
 
So of course I'm still asking :)

1. I confess I don't know much about wooden props. Are they suitable for IFR work? I end up in light rain pretty often......

If you're in rain often, wood props won't work long term. Think FP metal and you won't regret it.

Installing autopilot in an existing airplane is straightforward and you could do it unless you're not comfortable drilling, riveting, cutting.
 
Many thanks for the info. My partner in building the Zenith 801 probably thinks I'm TOO comfortable drilling, riveting, and cutting. :)

If you're in rain often, wood props won't work long term. Think FP metal and you won't regret it.

Installing autopilot in an existing airplane is straightforward and you could do it unless you're not comfortable drilling, riveting, cutting.
 
Comments in-line

So of course I'm still asking :)

1. I confess I don't know much about wooden props. Are they suitable for IFR work? I end up in light rain pretty often.

Prop tape seems to work for many. I have a composite and added prop tape. No real time in the rain yet, but Catto says it stops the erosion.

2. I think I could go either way with respect to CS or FP props, so that factor probably wouldn't rule candidates out one way or the other. I can live with the performance of a FP and I suppose they're a bit cheaper to operate over time.

Don't need to "live with it." My 160HP with Catto FP cruises at 190 MPH (8 GPH). It doesn't climb like a CS, but I still get 1400 FPM.


2. From what I've read the tip-up/slider debate doesn't seem to be a game changer, but I'm ready to be convinced otherwise.

3. Having flown for years behind a 160 O-320, that seems like sort of a natural choice, especially since the RV carries slightly less fuel than the Warrior. Again, I suspect I could be talked into the right plane with an O-360.

4. I'm almost completely indifferent to cosmetics. I consider this a major advantage as a buyer. :)

Overall, I think I'm probably looking for at least basic IFR (steam gauges and ancient, though certified, GPS would be fine).

I'm reasonably confident I can't live without a 2-axis autopilot, but I haven't the foggiest idea how hard it might be to retrofit one. Fortunately $-Tec won't be the only game in town. :)

Most, including myself, won't recommend IFR without it. Plane is very pitch sensitive and very easy to lose or gain 100's of feet in altitude just tuning a radio (adding to this issue is the elevator trim isn't as fine as it should be and therefore time consuming to get just right). You can easily add these without much effort for $1500.


Thanks to all for the great info!!
 
That seems like terrific info and wise counsel on props and autopilots. I really appreciate it.
 
Dugaru,

You should go to https://www.vansaircraft.com/ and click on the "Support" button. In the drop-down menu click on "Service Information/Revisions" and go to the RV-6/6A page. About halfway down that page, look for "Buying a Flying RV". Only two pages, but lots of useful information.
 
Hi Rob. I'm also looking for an RV6 to buy (tail-wheel preferred), and wanted to ask you if you saw a difference in noise level after you put in full carpet in the interior. I really don't like the feel of bare aluminum inside the cockpit and prefer a quieter cockpit and wanted to see if you can tell a difference after installing the carpet.

Brian


I purchased last March. Glad I did!

Since you've decided on a 6, and where you want that pesky third wheel, you've got some things left to consider:

Engine: 150/160/180
Prop: FP/CS Wood/Metal 2 or 3 blade
Canopy: Tip-up/Slider
Panel: Steam/Glass
Interior: Basic cloth and metal OR Awesome leather and full carpet/leather side panels
Paint: basic OR superflashy

How much do you want in your as-purchased vs after purchase adds?

For me, I BOUGHT a nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP wood 2 blade, Tipper with partial glass, VFR only.

It is now a very nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP Catto 3 blade, Tipper with glass for PFD and steam engine gauges, IFR capable, and Awesome leather and carpet everywhere. Sometime before 2020 it will be full glass

So with that example of deciding what you want to look for, you can do a lot of websurfing (TradeAPlane, Barnstormers, VAF :) ) and you'll find some candidates.

A good pre-buy is key. Depending on where the bird currently flies it can be easy or a little of an issue to find someone to do it right. There's often someone looking on this forum for pre-buys.

Also of importance: check those operating limitations.

Enjoy the search and ask, ask, ask.
 
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The RV6 was the last "make a lot yourself" model. Quality will naturally vary. Granted, there are later pre punched versions and quick build fuselages, etc, but I can personally attest to factory mistakes there too. I fixed four quickbuild assembly errors on my own RV6-A fuselage. It's a great airplane and you'll get a lot for your money. Just get a pre buy inspection. Vans Aircraft lists service bulletins for each model.

Yes, it was the last model that you actually had to build. You learn how lay out rivets and make parts with raw materials...... You also get the plans that show you how to make every part on the airframe..... A big help if the kit builder is no longer around.

Mistakes can be made by anybody on any kit, even on a 7 kit that you just assemble by following the instruction sheets that Vans provides.

Find someone that has built and maintained the model that you are interested in purchasing and have them inspect it.
 
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6A purchase suggestion

Having built one 6A, working on a second, and a third on the shelf, and having some experience with a few 7's and helping rebuild a poorly constructed but not completed 8 my two cents is to spend the money for a pre-purchase inspection by a well experienced RV builder and flyer - they are around and can be found.

We have a good one here at O85, whom I can put you in touch with, and there are several in TX and along the East Coast to name a few. At the very least, a pre-purchase inspection by a well qualified individual will either keep you from purchasing a wreck, help you negotiate a better price, or tell you not to wait and make an offer now.

There are good 6's and 6A's out there - I think you will find, as others have, that using available inspection resources is money well spent.
 
3rd owner, please understand proper nosewheel install/config

Purchased my -6A over four years ago. Approaching 500 hours of flight. Great plane. This happened and I was grounded for 18 months. Bolt failed holding nose strut into collar. A nose wheel bracket installed backwards. Same event has happened to other -6A planes. During repairs, due to cost, I went from metal CS to Catto composite 3-blade FP prop. Still flies fast!! More info about bracket and failure available on VAF.

Added Trio Pro Pilot 2-axis autopilot at Jay Pratt's shop (RV Central) over a weekend. It is great!

c5c28ee6e806d3284c01fe0471d20646_zps8e09ffcd.jpg
 
Hi Rob. I'm also looking for an RV6 to buy (tail-wheel preferred), and wanted to ask you if you saw a difference in noise level after you put in full carpet in the interior. I really don't like the feel of bare aluminum inside the cockpit and prefer a quieter cockpit and wanted to see if you can tell a difference after installing the carpet.

Brian

It's noticeable. The Classic Aero carpet kit puts foam between the floor stiffeners, and then the carpet is one piece over the top. That and the side leather/carpet panels.

My other noise reduction is in process right now, which is mounting the 3-Blade Catto Prop which is reputed to be quieter.
 
It's noticeable. The Classic Aero carpet kit puts foam between the floor stiffeners, and then the carpet is one piece over the top. That and the side leather/carpet panels.

My other noise reduction is in process right now, which is mounting the 3-Blade Catto Prop which is reputed to be quieter.

Thanks. That's good to know. How much does it cost and what are my options as far as different brands/ types of carpeting/ cloth/ insulation? Is the Classic Aero Kit already cut and fitted specifically for the plane and ready to install? How much time/ skill does it take to install? And how much weight does it add?

Brian
 
Carpet

I got Flightline carpet and foam for about $200. I checked the noise level with a decibel meter before and after and, surprisingly, could not detect any difference. I still like the carpet though, and it adds little weight. John
 
6/6A useful load

If you are thinking about buying a 6 or 6A, check the empty weight and useful load given the builder's certified gross weight. There is a lot of variation out there. Depending on your personal body weight and that of your passenger you might find yourself very limited in your mission. Many 6's and 6A's are certified at gross weights above the Vans recommended ones, but that doesn't mean they should be flown at those gross weights from all airports on all days. Different engine and prop combinations also will greatly affect performance. I would try to get real world numbers from the seller to make sure you know what performance to expect.

LeRoy Johnston RV-6A Esperanza 1000+hours.
 
This seems like very valuable advice and I will take it -- many thanks.

Having built one 6A, working on a second, and a third on the shelf, and having some experience with a few 7's and helping rebuild a poorly constructed but not completed 8 my two cents is to spend the money for a pre-purchase inspection by a well experienced RV builder and flyer - they are around and can be found.

We have a good one here at O85, whom I can put you in touch with, and there are several in TX and along the East Coast to name a few. At the very least, a pre-purchase inspection by a well qualified individual will either keep you from purchasing a wreck, help you negotiate a better price, or tell you not to wait and make an offer now.

There are good 6's and 6A's out there - I think you will find, as others have, that using available inspection resources is money well spent.
 
Good idea. I know that my Warrior loved the ground on hot days, and I was probably a better resource on its real-world performance than the POH was!

If you are thinking about buying a 6 or 6A, check the empty weight and useful load given the builder's certified gross weight. There is a lot of variation out there. Depending on your personal body weight and that of your passenger you might find yourself very limited in your mission. Many 6's and 6A's are certified at gross weights above the Vans recommended ones, but that doesn't mean they should be flown at those gross weights from all airports on all days. Different engine and prop combinations also will greatly affect performance. I would try to get real world numbers from the seller to make sure you know what performance to expect.

LeRoy Johnston RV-6A Esperanza 1000+hours.
 
Anybody going to be at SNF?

I'm likely going to be at Sun-N-Fun on Friday 4/8 and Saturday 4/9, and would dearly love to get a guided tour and/or other random RV advice from a 6 or 6A owner or owner/builder.

Would be happy to sweeten the pot with a gratuity imported from Virginia (this of course includes peanuts, ham, and wares available at our state-run liquor stores....). :)
 
Good idea. I know that my Warrior loved the ground on hot days, and I was probably a better resource on its real-world performance than the POH was!

At a gross weight of over 650# more than an RV6A, and using the same motor as a power source, the Warrior IS a dog compaired to the 6A.

The 6A with a 160 and a Sensenich prop is a very good performer......
 
There will be several 6-A's at Sun n Fun, mine included so stop by at HBC and ask all the questions that you can think of!

John. Morgan.
 
From what I can tell, the low weight of the RV family is one of the secrets of their success.

There's quite a lot to be said for Warriors, but climb performance isn't among the accolades. The 180-horse Cherokee is, in the grand scheme of things, probably a better collection of compromises than the Warrior for most missions.

At a gross weight of over 650# more than an RV6A, and using the same motor as a power source, the Warrior IS a dog compaired to the 6A.

The 6A with a 160 and a Sensenich prop is a very good performer......
 
No replacement for displacement!! You can run a O-360 in cruise to match the 320 fuel #s, but not the other way around ;-)
I bought my 6A 3yrs and 300hrs ago. Very nice, low total time, 180hp FP but no frills.
Seems every annual I've spent time and $$ to add the things I couldn't afford at first. Electric trim, P-Mag, 5-point harness, multi-function sticks, Leather interior, and now an auto pilot. Not to mention tweaks like the Anti-splat nose wheel bearing and gear brace. No constant speed prop in my future because the crankshaft is solid. 34 RVs flying at my field, most with C/S props. The performance difference is pretty big.
Long story short. If you can afford to, buy the bird with the frills you want. It'll cost more in the long run to add them yourself and test whether you're a builder or a flyer!
I can hopefully take a break for a couple years until ADSB rears its head! See ya' at OSH!!

Brian
 
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