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need help understanding Vans instructions for canopy base molding strip

IowaRV9Dreamer

Well Known Member
On page 9-16 of my manual, in the "Installing Canopy Base Moulding Strip" section. One of the last sentences of the 3rd paragraph:

...The molding should continue around the base of the windscreen back to the point where the windscreen is under the aluminum skin.
Looking at drawing 43 and at my (slider) airplane, it seems to me that the windscreen is always on the outside (over, not "under") the aluminum skin.

Did I mis-install my windshield? Or maybe the word "under" works for a tip-up?
 
This is how I did it.
33ym6hy.jpg

I trimmed the last portion of the aluminum next to the roll bar gusset to get the windshield to lay flatter.
 
My instructions say the same thing (except on page 9-14). It looks like Van's didn't update these instructions to reflect the other parts of the plans that no longer require the "notch" in the forward upper fuselage skin that older RV-6 & RV-7 plans did (although my forward upper fuselage skin in that area is slightly stressed by the roll bar gusset).

My windscreen (slider) is entirely on the outside of the skin, like yours. I just recently finished the fiberglass of the moulding strip on my RV-7 and it turned out perfectly (or at least as good as I could expect from my quality of workmanship:rolleyes:).

Edit: Added Pictures

IMG_5283_zpsce267ea2.jpg


IMG_5284_zps5f31013d.jpg


IMG_5285_zps0be8be5f.jpg
 
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Thanks for the super fast replies. My windscreen extends down about 1/2" below the top edge of the forward skin in the roll bar area. I didn't think to notch it like you did Jeff, nice. I think that would have been better. The skin is up against the roll bar, with the plexi on the outside of that.

Paul - you are now my hero. Can you send my pictures of what you did, maybe a description of what materials you used? I'll PM you my email address.

I'm totally at a loss about this fairing but need to get it done. As I see it, it is the only hard thing left on the whole project!
 
Here's the reply I emailed to Dave...

"Dave,

I don’t have a lot of time so I can’t go into too much detail.

1) I used Sikaflex to bond my windscreen and canopy. Because of this I ordered all parts normally powder coated from Van’s uncoated, and had them coated in gloss black powdercoat locally. This way the Sikaflex seams would be less noticeable.
2) I used the Van’s specified clips and screws to initially mount the windscreen, using washers as spacers to set the proper gap along the roll bar and forward skin before bonding the windscreen.
3) When bonding the windscreen, I used popsicle and tongue depressor sticks to make a nice fillet to the inside and outside skin surfaces after thoroughly cleaning the skins and windscreen surfaces leaving gaps where the clips were located.
4) After the initial Sikaflex cured, I removed all screws and clips, leaving the washer/spacers in place. I then finished filling the gaps where the clips were located with Sikaflex and made a nice fillet in the gaps where the clips were located.
5) Then, I used an epoxy/flox/cabosil layup to fill the gap between the windscreen and fwd skin (3 parts flox, 1 part Cabosil, until like peanut butter) to make a smooth transition/base for the fiberglass layup.
6) I then laid up 8-9 oz. fiberglass tape strips per Van’s instructions using successively wider layers, EXCEPT, I used fewer layers (only about 4 or 5) because, using Sikaflex, the fiberglass is no longer structural. It is only needed for aesthetics/aerodynamics. (Use Dan Horton’s instructions using electrical/plastic tape to mask the windscreen/skin via VAF search) I ended up with a single layer of fiberglass at the fairing to windscreen transition.
7) While the epoxy was still wet, I applied strips of peel-ply (see attachment) and stippled (see VAF archives) until saturated so minimum sanding afterward is required.

IMG_5243_zps6070a66f.jpg

8) I then sanded, applied epoxy/micro and sanded, applied epoxy/micro and sanded, etc until satisfied with the contours/finish.
9) Remove final layer of masking tape and clean.

Note: Because I used Sikaflex to bond the canopy, and kept all fiberglass within the area already masked by the Sikaflex adhesive and primer, there is no need to add black dye to the fiberglass/epoxy. None of the fiberglass can be seen from the inside of the canopy beyond the sika/primer.

Also, per your latest post, my windscreen is also about ½” below the top skin. And worked out perfectly.

Best regards,
Paul Winkels"
 
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Awesome Paul, thanks so much. I bonded my windshield with Sika as well, but slightly different than yours. No fasteners on the roll bar, and just the little Vans clips along the skn interface. They seem to have held the windscreen down while the Sika cures.

I'm going to study your method. If it comes out half as good, ill be thrilled!

THANKS!

PS - if you ever wanted to come to Iowa and make a fairing, now is your chance!
 
Dave,

The only reason I used the fasteners on the forward roll bar was to to temporarily install the windscreen and align it perfectly using washers with the canopy, which had already been bonded. Once the Sika cured, I removed the fasteners.
 
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