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D-Sub Connector and Disconnect Tool Recommendation

greenbaron757

I'm New Here
Hi guys. New to the RV and forum. Building in Louisville, KY. Empennage almost done. Any recommendations on a D-Sub crimper? Would a cheap one from Amazon suffice? The Vans tool list doesn’t say what gauge to buy. Also, do I need a extraction tool?

Thanks,
Sean
 
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If you can find a used Daniel AFM-8 on Ebay, may be worth your while. They usually sell very well for about what you'll pay. They use different positioners for different pins - standard D-Sub uses this one: https://www.steinair.com/product/af...r-standard-d-sub-connectors-both-male-female/

There are some decent knock-off positioners available in kits ([https://www.amazon.com/JRready-Posi...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=) but I bought the "real" K13-1 for D-sub.

I paid around $160 for my used one. Sample eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255056661426?epid=10041285958&hash=item3b628fcbb2:g:BW4AAOSwp9Vg8l8g
 
I’m with Turner on this one. If you are doing your entire panel, get the real deal AFM-8 crimper (Steinair typically has them fir a good price) and the knockoff positioners . I had the cheap crimp tool for a while, but the fact that you can’t adjust the crimp depth is quite off putting. It makes it tough guaranteeing a quality crimp every time unless you are an old hand that has done it millions of times before. Which the AFM-8 you just adjust the crimp depth based on the wire size table and you are guaranteed a perfect crimp every time. You do not want to be chasing poor crimps and associated data communications problems in the future. You can always sell the tool at the end of it, and at the end of the day a $300 tool is way cheaper that the cost of a professionally made harness (which likely won’t be the right length and will have heaps of unnecessary service loops).
With good tools, the avionics wiring will be one of the most enjoyable pets of the build.
Tom.
RV-7
 
Hi guys. New to the RV and forum. Building in Louisville, KY. Empennage almost done. Any recommendations on a D-Sub crimper? Would a cheap one from Amazon suffice? The Vans tool list doesn’t say what gauge to buy. Also, do I need a extraction tool?

Thanks,
Sean

Welcome Sean!

I just went through this exact same decision. For my RV-12iS build, I bought the cheap Amazon crimper. It seems fine to me for the very few pins I've crimped so far. Not sure how much more there will be with the entire avionics system including wiring harness coming from Stein? Hopefully someone further along (or done) can answer?

If you're building EAB and doing your own avionics and wiring, then you may want a better tool, but I don't really know.

Keep in mind that some responses you get in the RV-12 section of the forum could be from knowledgeable and helpful non-RV-12 builders not necessarily realizing whether a question may be specific to the -12. In fact, when I started my response I forgot where I was and was going to ask what model you were building. I recommend adding that info to your signature. :)
 
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The answer to the question about the d-sub pin extraction tool is:
None if you never make a mistake
Inexpensive one if you make only a few mistakes
The good tool for everyone else
 
If you go for the cheaper crimper be sure to buy Stein's high-density positioner snout to use if you have any high-density pins or sockets. Basically that is the same thing as saying if you have any high-brow Garmin avionics, the most of which use high-density male pins. If you opt for the Daniels AFM 8 crimper (highly recommended) you will need one standard-density positioner and one "male" high-density positioner. You shouldn't need the "female" high-density positioner.

As for extractors. Be careful. The one recently linked to above is the blue/white handled version which if for wire gauges larger (16+) than most D-Subs use. Typically you would want a red/white handled tool (standard density) and a green/white handled tool (high-density) extractor. Of all these I prefer the ones with the metal business ends rather than the all-plastic versions. I know lots of folks who vastly prefer the all-plastic ones so to each his own. One major hint in using these extractors is to never rotate them after inserting them into the connector. That will generally bend up the split dove tail end of the tool. If you want to reposition the extractor pull it out linearly, then rotate it outside of the connector and then re-insert linearly. You will probably need some wiggling. And press your finger into the wire channel to provide grip on the wire for pulling the pin out.

If you want to get extravagant you could spring for these top-end extractors, which I really like. And I hide them away from my regular tools so they don't get borrowed or go missing. They are Daniels brand tweezer type extractors which provide their own spring pressure to release the pins, and they work from the side rather than having to straddle the whole wire above the pin. That makes them easier to use in a highly populated connector. I can't remember which of these two part numbers are standard-density and high-density, but I will look at them in the shop tomorrow:

DMC Part # DRK145

DMC Part # DRK95-22MB

b4a04711afbd8d54b59a3f4e810a50dd.jpg
 
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I love it when a new (to me) tool is introduced here. I hate it when a new tool is introduced that I have to get and try out (thanks, jliltd...) Looks like the DRK145 is the standard pin removal tool and the other is for high density. Also a brief search showed none on *bay and Daniels had the best price (I did say brief). While I don't anticipate needing to extract pins anytime soon, that tool looks like just the ticket...

==dave==
N102FM
 
As for extractors. Be careful. The one recently linked to above is the blue/white handled version which if for wire gauges larger (16+) than most D-Subs use. Typically you would want a red/white handled tool (standard density) and a green/white handled tool (high-density) extractor.

The link I shared has the wrong picture. It is part #11-04435, insertion / extraction tool 22-28AWG it is standard density, green & white and metal, $3.50, and work just fine. The tweezer type also work good but are $69, and just as fragile.
 
I have the DMC extractors and they are expensive and work easily 100% of the time (which makes them a bargain to me). No fighting or fussing with the plastic extractors.
 
I hate it when a new tool is introduced that I have to get and try out (thanks, jliltd...)
==dave==
N102FM

Well if it makes you feel any better, I ordered one of those Scott Hersha linked Harting extractors. Just to try. I too can't resists trying all tools.
 
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