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Piper jump start plug

We mounted ours

on the belly of the RV-10, near the battery. ---- Direct wired. Worked great.

Ron
 
I installed mine aft of the bagage bulkhead, lower area on the pilots side. Just aft of the flap trailing edge. Created and riveted a doubler plate. Cut a hole to the exact pattern of the cover and hing. The only part protruding past the skin is the plug cover.
 
I just took one out. Too heavy and never used it.
Build on, save time building and get flying sooner.
I doubt you will miss it.
 
A Piper-style plug is too heavy? I'd be interested to know the actual weight, if you have a moment to weight it, please.

I've been planning on installing the Piper plug as it seems to be the smallest/lightest of the common aircraft plugs. The big 3-prong AN-style power plug definitely packs some weight and is physically too large for the area where I want to install the external power receptacle in our aircraft.
 
weight for entire system?

ok dudes, so let me get this straight....I had a little connector to 'charge' my battery, so would this Piper plug allow that, if wired correctly? sounds good!

second; if you have the Piper female port, and you're at the typical field around here on a weekend, you ain't gonna find a start-cart with a bunch of aviation plugs, you're more likely to find a quad and jumper cables!
....so will this port, with the little 'stem' thingy that you of course have carried with you (weight?) or the jumpers with the plug end on them ( more weight?) get you started?
piper%20plug%20n%20jumper%20stem%20%20cables_zpsmmolcwbe.jpg

...or would it just be better to design-in access to your battery, & use one of these little Lithium 'power brick' jumper babies (that you have in your glovebox... for charging your iPad anyway!???)...... about 2 pounds all-up :D
 
Hi Charles,

How do you intend to use the plug:

1) hook up a "topping off" type battery charger like a Battery Minder?

2) Jump start the airplane if the battery is discharged?

3) Hook up a charger to fully recharge the battery?
 
earth x will sell you an extra set of those cables for that lithium set up for $15.then it can be cut up and the plug used to wire directly to your battery and a jump is as easy as plugging into the li. battery.
you can jump your battery sitting in the plane and ready to go.
 
This Piper jump plug is a Cole Hersee part. It can be found at any NAPA autoparts store.

Part number 11041 socket and 11042 is the plug. They are both too heavy to use on an RV for what they do.... You might look at welding machine taper lock lead connectors. They can be mounted flush with the skin. Miller used them on their small stick machines.
 
Saville said:
Hi Charles,

How do you intend to use the plug:

1) hook up a "topping off" type battery charger like a Battery Minder?

2) Jump start the airplane if the battery is discharged?

3) Hook up a charger to fully recharge the battery?
Click to expand...

Maybe all or any of the above.
I just kind of had one of these laying around the shop and thought I would use it if I could figure out a good place to put it.
I have seen a jump plug save the day for quite a few people over the years when they left the master on or something. Most fobs have a Piper type plug on their jump cart. The problem with jumper cables as suggested above is that they can blow off when the engine starts and cause all sorts of nasty problems when they short out not to mention flogging around and beating up your plane.
The reason I am building my own plane is so I can set it up the way I want it. Some of those ways are not the way others want their plane. That's ok with me.
 
Hi Charles,

I have the Cole Hersey parts as well and am considering installing it for battery top off - though I'd have it inside my baggage compartment.

I've studied the "GroundPower" article quite a bit to understand the instructions for installing the threaded toilet seat bolt. I think I understand it - basically:

1) reduce the size of the flat heat until it just fits in the back end of the receptacle.

2) Grind down most of the back end of the receptacle

3) Push the bolt head into what's left and fill it with solder.

I spent a lot of time looking about for how the unit is supposed to be installed as is - without modification. Can't find anything.

I'm also considering these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHQR0K4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They would be lighter, flatter, not require any modification and the holes you see in the middle of them go all the way through so you could use those to mount one of them. Though again I'm installing this in the baggage compartment.

Let us know what you decided upon and how you're going to do it. This is a common project and the more ideas and solutions that are out there the better.
 
Charles in SC said:
Maybe all or any of the above.
I just kind of had one of these laying around the shop and thought I would use it if I could figure out a good place to put it.
I have seen a jump plug save the day for quite a few people over the years when they left the master on or something. Most fobs have a Piper type plug on their jump cart. The problem with jumper cables as suggested above is that they can blow off when the engine starts and cause all sorts of nasty problems when they short out not to mention flogging around and beating up your plane.
The reason I am building my own plane is so I can set it up the way I want it. Some of those ways are not the way others want their plane. That's ok with me.
Click to expand...

Yeh! Ya'll behave.
To make you feel better, Charles, I'm putting a Cessna plug in my 14.....
to guarantee I never have a dead battery.
It worked for 16 yrs with my 182 , so far!😃
 
I have used a Lithium ion Booster Battery (Allstart Boost Max 560) to jump my RV-8 from the pilot's seat.
I just connect the jumper clamps to the power stud of my Emergency Bus fuse panel and a convenient large bolt for ground.
These new booster batteries have many uses in the air and on the ground. :)
Correction: The power receptacle I removed was the 3 prong AN style, it was heavy.
 
Saville said:
Hi Charles,

I have the Cole Hersey parts as well and am considering installing it for battery top off - though I'd have it inside my baggage compartment.

I've studied the "GroundPower" article quite a bit to understand the instructions for installing the threaded toilet seat bolt. I think I understand it - basically:

1) reduce the size of the flat heat until it just fits in the back end of the receptacle.

2) Grind down most of the back end of the receptacle

3) Push the bolt head into what's left and fill it with solder.

I spent a lot of time looking about for how the unit is supposed to be installed as is - without modification. Can't find anything.

I'm also considering these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHQR0K4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They would be lighter, flatter, not require any modification and the holes you see in the middle of them go all the way through so you could use those to mount one of them. Though again I'm installing this in the baggage compartment.

Let us know what you decided upon and how you're going to do it. This is a common project and the more ideas and solutions that are out there the better.
Click to expand...

What is the "Ground Power" article?
 
I use a little Black and Decker battery maintainer like this.

s-l300.jpg


The pigtail is mounted by the oil filler door with an adel clamp.

When I take a trip, I toss the thing in my tool bag, just in case I leave the master on or it is really cold. In charge mode, it will top off the battery fairly quickly.

If you put in the jumper plug, like you have, you need to install heavy. This means it is best to install it close to your battery.
 
Last edited:
Posting a follow-up here. Ordered the Piper-style plug and socket from Spruce. Now that it's here, I can sympathize with some of the comments made above. For reference, the following weights apply to these devices:

Piper-Style Receptacle - 9.7 ounces
Piper-Style Plug - 10.1 ounces
TOTAL MATED WEIGHT = 19.7 ounces
Then add the wire you would have attached to the plug so you could effectively use it as a booster/jumper when away from home. Pretty easy to get to 2lbs total weight, and more.
 
Canadian_JOY said:
Posting a follow-up here. Ordered the Piper-style plug and socket from Spruce. Now that it's here, I can sympathize with some of the comments made above. For reference, the following weights apply to these devices:

Piper-Style Receptacle - 9.7 ounces
Piper-Style Plug - 10.1 ounces
TOTAL MATED WEIGHT = 19.7 ounces
Then add the wire you would have attached to the plug so you could effectively use it as a booster/jumper when away from home. Pretty easy to get to 2lbs total weight, and more.
Click to expand...

I sure would like to know how the hot lead is supposed to be attached to the receptacle
 
I consulted with a couple of local A&Ps and was told to heat the big brass contact with a torch and "tin" it with solder. Use a torch so you can get on and off of it with the heat fast so as not to melt the plastic part. "Tin" your wire and then solder the two together. I have not done it yet.
 
Charles in SC said:
I consulted with a couple of local A&Ps and was told to heat the big brass contact with a torch and "tin" it with solder. Use a torch so you can get on and off of it with the heat fast so as not to melt the plastic part. "Tin" your wire and then solder the two together. I have not done it yet.
Click to expand...

Hi Charles,

To be sure I understand:

You tin the inside of the tubular contact and then the wire, and then solder them both together? Is the hole in the side of the brass contact the place where you introduce the solder?

According to the "Ground Power" article I listed above, you can gently pull that plastic tip off the inner contact before hitting the unit with the torch. That prevents it from melting.

Thanks for the info!
 
I used the Piper style plug on my RV6, mounted on the belly below the battery, worked great. Add a short pigtail to the plug and keep it in the plane. Great for starting or charging. On my 7 I located it on the lower forward belly just inboard of the r/h gear leg with an .040 doubler. Ran 4GA wire right to the battery relay. Simple.
Jake



 
Last edited:
Instead of going the torch and solder route, I stripped and tinned the cable, then drilled and tapped the brass receptacle for a 3/16 set screw with a dab of locate. Easy removal if required.
Jake
 
gasman said:
This Piper jump plug is a Cole Hersee part. It can be found at any NAPA autoparts store.

Part number 11041 socket and 11042 is the plug. They are both too heavy to use on an RV for what they do.... You might look at welding machine taper lock lead connectors. They can be mounted flush with the skin. Miller used them on their small stick machines.
Click to expand...

JEGS has them... Quick release charging lugs. Part # 555-10380
 
Anyone know where to find the Piper plug insert shown in the pic above? The one with the red and black tabs with the yellow insulator...cant find that exact one anywhere online and would like to purchase one...



UOTE=flyboy1963;1143217]ok dudes, so let me get this straight....I had a little connector to 'charge' my battery, so would this Piper plug allow that, if wired correctly? sounds good!

second; if you have the Piper female port, and you're at the typical field around here on a weekend, you ain't gonna find a start-cart with a bunch of aviation plugs, you're more likely to find a quad and jumper cables!
....so will this port, with the little 'stem' thingy that you of course have carried with you (weight?) or the jumpers with the plug end on them ( more weight?) get you started?
piper%20plug%20n%20jumper%20stem%20%20cables_zpsmmolcwbe.jpg

...or would it just be better to design-in access to your battery, & use one of these little Lithium 'power brick' jumper babies (that you have in your glovebox... for charging your iPad anyway!???)...... about 2 pounds all-up :D[/QUOTE]
 
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