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RV-7 LHS Elevator Work

It would probably help if you specify where your problem is in the video. I'm assuming it's the dimpling at the 10 minute mark. In which case you are just using the wrong tools and should get yourself a longer nose squeezer yoke for your hand squeezer.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/4-Pneumatic-Yoke/productinfo/SNY40/#.WZqwc1EjFPY


It fits on your pneumatic yoke, or on one of these:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Main-Squeeze-model-22/productinfo/SCH22/#.WZqws1EjFPY

Or for really tight gaps use a vice grip dimple tool. They don't make quite as pretty a dimple, but they get the job done:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3_32-VISE-GRIP-DIMPLER/productinfo/550/#.WZqxRlEjFPY

A thin nose yoke is handy for setting the rivets that are in these hard to reach places.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/4-Thin-Nose-Pneu-Yoke/productinfo/SNYT405/#.WZq00FEjFPY

On another note, it makes me nervous watching how you use the pneumatic and c frame squeezer. I find it best to place the male die on the bottom, so you can put the in exactly the right location before you begin the squeeze cycle. This will reduce you chance of punching a hole in the wrong location. If you do this, you must be careful to lift the skin before you move to the next hole. If you drag it, you will mark the soft alclad on the underside.
I hope this helps.
Tom.
 
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I used the vice grip dimple die setup in the link above. There have been a ton of places where I used these (basically every trailing edge part of tail ribs).
 
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