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A tight spot - Rudder TE Rivets

swfsnapper

I'm New Here
Hi there, my name is Mark...

First post here and even though Ive read through the rules I may hve missed one.. forgive me if I make a mistake.

I'm currently building an RV8 in the UK.. Horz and vert stab are done and working my way though the control surfaces. I'm trying to figure out solution to installing the last few rivets on the trailing edge rudder tip to skin.

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No standard blocks or squeezers will fit so I suspect I'll have to grind something down.

Any suggestions or solutions much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.

Mark
 
The easiest would be to just use CS pulled rivets and move on. Some have had luck with the hammer and chisel on a back rivet plate trick.
 
You'll probably need help, but

Get the thinnest edged bar that you have (or can reasonably make/grind/alter to fit) and mount it in a vise. You'll probably need someone to level from the other end of the work piece. Hold the piece so that the manufactured head is flush (Duh, but making a point because the rivet can't move. The work piece must). It will drive down very easily when the bar is mounted as suggested. The rigidity of the mount helps compensate for a less than rigid BB). You'll know if it will go before you squeeze the trigger. You'll use the method again for future work. Best of luck.
 

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I've had some success using the aforementioned bucking bar, a hammer, and a backrivet plate. Set the rudder flat on the backrivet surface, slide the thin foot of the bar in place over the rivet tail. Whack the top of the bucking bar with a hammer a few times. Put some carboard along the web of the rib to prevent collateral damage and you may have to pay with the angle of the bar. The challenge with this method is that your not striking the bar along an imaginary line that's directly above the rivet, so there can be tendency for the rivet to clinch slightly. You can compensate slightly by tilting the bar. More of a feel thing. Try it on a scrap practice project first.

I'd also have no shame in using an MK-319BS in these locations. and sometimes have when the backrivet method just wasn't working.
 
I ground down the nose on a squeezer yoke. Next time I will just use some c/s cherry’s.
 
Back rivet, use a masonry chisel to reach in and hit it hard with a flat rivet set.
 
Thanks for all the great suggestions... There's a few in there that I hadn't thought of yet.

When I get round to it, and hopefully drive in some good rivets.. I'll post here how I did it.
 
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