Van's Air Force
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Anyone build their own DRDT-2 frame?
- Thread starter diamond
- Start date
DRDT-2
I built my frame and I'm sure lots of others here have as well. The design is provided on the manufacturers website. I built two and sold one to pay for the front end kit on the unit I kept. It is a little work but not too big of a deal when compared to building an airplane
I built my frame and I'm sure lots of others here have as well. The design is provided on the manufacturers website. I built two and sold one to pay for the front end kit on the unit I kept. It is a little work but not too big of a deal when compared to building an airplane
Hornet2008
Well Known Member
I built mine, a tip, use a section of RHS to keep the upper and lower beams parallel. Clamp the whole thing together and weld the the back suppot on. keep it in clamps until it cools.
Gerry in Oz
Member
Too far to ship
I built my frame because of the outrageous shipping cost of all thing RV, tools and the like across the pond to Australia. Just followed the design on the web site and it came out very well. Gerry
I built my frame because of the outrageous shipping cost of all thing RV, tools and the like across the pond to Australia. Just followed the design on the web site and it came out very well. Gerry
Had one made locally.
We have a great local circle of talent - most of who happily trade for either each others skills or a ride in an aeroplane.
Showed it to my welder buddy, next thing he had shown it to his buddy who works in a CNC shop, another buddy got the steel from a scrap yard for pennies.
Within a couple of weeks I had this - slightly rusty but immaculately fabricated frame.
A good wire brushing, Lycoming 'sticks like the proverbial' engine paint applied - looked like a shop bought one !
The good thing is that once you assemble - there is sufficient adjustment/float in the front end to absorb any slight fabrication movement - not that there was in mine, but you know what I am saying.
We have a great local circle of talent - most of who happily trade for either each others skills or a ride in an aeroplane.
Showed it to my welder buddy, next thing he had shown it to his buddy who works in a CNC shop, another buddy got the steel from a scrap yard for pennies.
Within a couple of weeks I had this - slightly rusty but immaculately fabricated frame.
A good wire brushing, Lycoming 'sticks like the proverbial' engine paint applied - looked like a shop bought one !
The good thing is that once you assemble - there is sufficient adjustment/float in the front end to absorb any slight fabrication movement - not that there was in mine, but you know what I am saying.
Thread the holes.
If the gauge of the steel is bigger, no problems - if lighter - search the scrap yard.
If the gauge of the steel is bigger, no problems - if lighter - search the scrap yard.
David-aviator
Well Known Member
Perhaps this economic reality should be factored in with regard to building the DRDT-2.
If you buy one for $399 and sell it after the project is complete, I believe it will fetch $300, the devices are so neat compared to the hammering banging unit.
Net cost $99 plus any shipping. If one can be built for around $125, it would be worth it.
I really like the DRDT-2, i've used both and would never go back to the hammer banging unit.
If you buy one for $399 and sell it after the project is complete, I believe it will fetch $300, the devices are so neat compared to the hammering banging unit.
Net cost $99 plus any shipping. If one can be built for around $125, it would be worth it.
I really like the DRDT-2, i've used both and would never go back to the hammer banging unit.
Do it. You will save a lot.
Do not use the tube. It will flex. Go by the plans or as close as you can. It's plane fun to do the frame on your own.
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I think HSS4x4x3/16 is probably too small if you are going to use the throat dimension shown on the drawing. The plans call for HSS6x2x3/16. The loss of 2" of depth is pretty significant. Even using the 6x2 there is significant deflection in the frame when dimpling.
If I was going to try the 4x4 I would use 2 pieces at the back of the frame effectively making the vertical tube 8x4. I think pinning the back of the tube in a more rigid fashion would help minimize the deflection you might otherwise encounter.
david.perl
Well Known Member
I had one made up locally asim in the UK and fitted the hydro-pneumatic head - so silent and effortless dimpling and i also used it for perfect back riveting as the frame was so stiff there was no flex.
I love it!
I love it!
David, did you have it made to specs with 3" X 6" X 3/16" metal or did you use something different?
LeeM_2000
Well Known Member
I am a novice welder with a Miller Autoset 180 MIG machine. I made mine out of scrap 3" x 5" x 0.25" and 2.5" x 2.5" x 0.25" tubing that I bought for $0.25/lb. I think I have about $10 in it before the powder coating, but I would have to weigh it to be sure. Definitely, build your own.
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Nice job. Just curious what the powder coating cost?
LeeM_2000
Well Known Member
I think powdercoating was around $40. I went with the color that was being used for a large run of other stuff the guy was doing that day. You can save a lot by just rattle canning it, but I decided I saved enough on the steel to pay for the powdercoat. I hate painting.
