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Purpose of tricycle gear cowl hole + metal closeout?

Draker

Well Known Member
Trying to better understand the purpose of this piece, from the tri-gear kit:



Vans has you cut an enormous hole in the cowl for the nose gear, then for some reason close most of it off with a metal plate. Any clue as to the purpose of this? Obviously you need a small hole for the nose gear, and to make it a little large to allow for removal of the lower cowl, but the gear doesn't go that far forward. Why would Vans call out a hole "Approx 15.5 inches" long, particularly when you just cover most of it up with a metal plate?
 
When you remove the lower cowl with the prop installed, the prop spinner will prevent any significant forward movement of the cowl, so you need that long slot to clear the nose strut as you lower the cowl straight down for 7” or so. The screwed in ‘cover’ helps restore the strength of the cut out.
 
Trying to better understand the purpose of this piece, from the tri-gear kit:



Vans has you cut an enormous hole in the cowl for the nose gear, then for some reason close most of it off with a metal plate. Any clue as to the purpose of this? Obviously you need a small hole for the nose gear, and to make it a little large to allow for removal of the lower cowl, but the gear doesn't go that far forward. Why would Vans call out a hole "Approx 15.5 inches" long, particularly when you just cover most of it up with a metal plate?


So you can get the bottom cowl off?
 
Front Gear leg cowl hole

Having the gear leg hole that long allows you to more easily take the cowl off, especially if you have a three bladed prop.... Once you put the cowl back in place, the plates are used to cover up the hole for better air flow through the cowl, and enhance engine cooling.


Trying to better understand the purpose of this piece, from the tri-gear kit:



Vans has you cut an enormous hole in the cowl for the nose gear, then for some reason close most of it off with a metal plate. Any clue as to the purpose of this? Obviously you need a small hole for the nose gear, and to make it a little large to allow for removal of the lower cowl, but the gear doesn't go that far forward. Why would Vans call out a hole "Approx 15.5 inches" long, particularly when you just cover most of it up with a metal plate?
 
3 blade prop

I was hesitant of getting a 3 bladed propr because of the pain getting the cowl off. With this new configuration, is removing the cowl with a 3 bladed propr easier now?
 
Ahh this all makes sense. So far I’ve only taken the lower cowl off without the spinner present, which is easy. It makes sense that I’d have to drop it down with the spinner on, and that much hole makes it possible.
 
In case it wasn’t clear, this slot extension is an upgrade to the original plans, based on what many builders ended up doing off-plan.
 
Ahh this all makes sense. So far I’ve only taken the lower cowl off without the spinner present, which is easy. It makes sense that I’d have to drop it down with the spinner on, and that much hole makes it possible.

When you complete the lower cowling and it's painted, you might want to apply some clear 3M Stone Guard film to the semicircle in back of the spinner. The paint is easily chipped here during cowling removal/installation and this will help a lot.
 
This is a new addition to the plans since I built in 2015-2017 that I will be incorporating prior to paint. My cowls is very difficult to remove (3 blade Catto).

I also purchased some neoprene knee supports to cover the lower 2 blades for protection.
 
I was hesitant of getting a 3 bladed propr because of the pain getting the cowl off. With this new configuration, is removing the cowl with a 3 bladed prop easier now?

I have a 3 blade, and once you increase the slot length it isn't really a big issue. I did make some socks to go over the prop blade if I need to do it by myself, with help you can avoid those even.
 
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