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Son of Frankensnorkel!

goatflieg

Well Known Member
In preparation for the horizontal induction snorkel installation on my RV-8 I did a lot of research here, as the snorkel typically requires at least some modification to work on each individual airplane. As "The Terrifying Tale of Frankensnorkel!" was very influential in my approach, I chose to document my particular set of alterations as Son of Frankensnorkel. It all started on a dark and stormy night...
Initial test fitting on my Barrett-built Superior IO-360 with cold air induction indicated that I would have to relieve the top of the snorkel in several areas to clear bosses on the Sky-Tec Starter and the mixture lever/cable. The snorkel was notched and several layers of glass laid into recessed shapes to provide clearance.
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My finished intake ramp on the left side looked like this. I was happy with the way it fit with the bottom cowl, but wasn't certain how the snorkel would work with it.
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When I did another test fit of the snorkel, I knew I was in trouble. Reviewing the snorkel instructions, it said that I shouldn't have finished trimming the left side baffles until the snorkel installation was complete. Too late for that!
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I was happy with the way I had constructed the left front baffles and really didn't want to have to redo them to accommodate the stock air filter mounting and snorkel. I really didn't like the stock design, anyway...
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So I thought about designing and fabricating a removable air filter tray and custom intake horn for the snorkel. The intake would be attached to the bottom of the inlet ramp with blind rivets and Pro Seal; the air filter tray would be sandwiched between flanges on the snorkel and intake and secured by bolts at the corners. All custom parts would be made from hand-laid composite; no vacuum bagging. My first attempt at making the air filter tray turned out awful; it now resides on my Wall of Shame. But I learned from the experience and made the necessary improvements on the subsequent attempt. It went through a lot of test fitting and modifications before I settled on the final shape.
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The snorkel flange was fairly straightforward. I mounted the snorkel and determined the layout of level trim lines. Making sure I would have adequate clearance for the tray and intake, I laid up a flange, trimmed it and glassed it to the top of the snorkel.
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To begin the design of the intake, I determined how big I could make a hole in the inlet ramp, allowing for the width of a flange that would be the attachment point for the intake to the ramp.
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I planned on making a foam plug that I could use as a male mold for laying up the inside walls of the intake. I developed this further, cutting the plug and coating it with wall plaster, then continuing to reshape and modify it. But as the air filter tray and snorkel came together I realized it was an impractical approach and it was abandoned.
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Because the inlet ramp was compound curved, I knew the top intake flange would have to be laid up on the bottom of the ramp. This is how it looked prior to subsequent modification.
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The bottom intake flange would have to conform to the top of the air filter tray, and also serve as a sealing surface for the top of the air filter. This was laid up on a flat surface and trimmed to shape, and like other parts, it would be modified as required until all final shapes were determined.
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While you are working on that baffle, be sure to provide a flowpath down the front face of the cylinder where the cooling-fin height goes to zero. Lots in the archives about that, usually for the back of #3, but the front of #2 has the same issue.
 
More test fitting indicated that it would be better to open up the ramp further to accommodate the air filter tray. This would require modification of the top flange. Note the difference in the color of the layups. The original was done with fast hardener; the modification was done with slow hardener; West Systems epoxy.
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Once the final shape of the air filter tray was determined, the location of the bolt holes was laid out. #40 pilot holes were drilled through the tray on the drill press; the pilot holes were then match-drilled through the snorkel and intake flanges. Large finishing nails held the assembly in alignment in preparation for bonding the upper and lower intake flanges together. With all the components mocked together, pieces of composite scrap were cut into wedges and epoxied between the flanges to set the correct orientation of the parts. The parts were disassembled and the sides of the intake were finished off with foam, flox and fiberglass. An initial application of filler/primer was sprayed and further filling was done with Aeropoxy.
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I had originally planned to only paint the intake and air filter tray, but eventually convinced myself to paint the snorkel too. I wasn't interested in spending hours smoothing and perfecting it; I just wanted it to be functional and look somewhat uniform, so I applied a number of coats of primer/paint and it's good enough for me. The intake exterior had to be painted before bonding it to the inlet ramp. That was initially a disaster, as the VHT paint I applied sprayed out in big glops on the first coat; it took more work to minimize the mess. My riveting plans went through some different approaches as I tried to accurately ascertain what would (and wouldn't) be possible once the part was complete. I eventually settled on a method that would allow me to get the part mostly done prior to bonding; additional filling and painting would be required after bonding. A few hours of work followed by many hours of curing, repeated ad nauseum, eventually resulted in something that just might work. Note the nut plates that are set in the bottom flange of the intake; more on that later.
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I did just a bit more touch-up on the interior surfaces of the intake and the top surface of the snorkel flange before final assembly. Regarding the bolts, I wanted them to come up from underneath and screw into nut plates on the lower intake flange. To make sure they would stay in place, I got bolts with drilled heads and safety wired them together in pairs. One bolt needed an extra washer for clearance; another required a hole drilled through the inlet ramp. After assembly this was sealed with torque seal paint, visible in the photo. I cut a dry gasket to place between the snorkel and the air filter tray. The bottom flange of the intake seals directly onto the rubber seal of the air filter. It all came together pretty well, and although it took a crazy amount of time to accomplish (115 extra hours!) I think it will work.
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Son of Frankensnorkel Lives! Will it stay together? Will it breathe well? Will it disrupt airflow to the left cylinders? Will the bottom cowl fit? Will birds consider it a great place to make a nest? Was it worth it? I don't yet know the answers to these and many more questions... but stay tuned to find out. When I learn, so will you. At least I can say I followed Dan Horton's Prime Directive: I Built Something.
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Wow, 115 hours for this mod - but it really looks nice!
What other modifications did you do and how much time spent for them?
I myself did some mods on my -8 and it all adds up - probably 300 hours for me.
 
Ah, have you checked for cowling clearance yet?

I know I'll have to trim a bit off the trailing edge of the bottom cowl inlet, but not much. It remains to be seen how much the elevation changed; it may require some modification of that inlet. Whatever I gotta do...!
 
While you are working on that baffle, be sure to provide a flowpath down the front face of the cylinder where the cooling-fin height goes to zero. Lots in the archives about that, usually for the back of #3, but the front of #2 has the same issue.
I did take that into consideration, particularly when determining where to apply the Permatex Ultra Black.
 
Wow, 115 hours for this mod - but it really looks nice!
What other modifications did you do and how much time spent for them?
I myself did some mods on my -8 and it all adds up - probably 300 hours for me.
It was cool to see some of your -8 mods in person in Brighton. I particularly wish I had done the canopy rail mod you did... but since mine is already assembled I'm not sure it's worth redoing at this point. I'll finish the canopy once the cowling and everything firewall-forward is done. Hopefully starting in April... we'll see.
 
Well Done!

Fiberglass work is still fairly new to me so I love seeing what can be accomplished with a lot of thought and experimentation. Well done!
 
nice work. I am anxious to see the results. I would have been concerned about the ramp being replaced with a 2" vertical wall. I would have guessed it would create a lot of turbulence there and impact airflow into that side of the cowl. No expert on the matter, so anxious to see the results.

Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like your red cube is hanging off a mechanical AN style attachment or NPT nipple fom the sevo. With the weight of the cube and the attached vertical hose, it seems it would be introducing a good amount of leveraged force on that connection to the servo. Can't say if it's a problem, but worth asking an expert, if it is an aluminum nipple. (saw it was blue, so assumed Al). I wouldn't necessarily be as concerned with a steel nipple. I know that servo get a LOT of vibration / enough to crack the 063 aluminum plates for the FAB. Given the consequences of a failure here (fuel spraying in good volume on the exhaust pipe) I would want to be certain it was safe. I was always advised that flexible fuel lines are best when vibration is at play and both terminating ends are not fixed to a common structure.

Larry
 
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nice work. I am anxious to see the results. I would have been concerned about the ramp being replaced with a 2" vertical wall. I would have guessed it would create a lot of turbulence there and impact airflow into that side of the cowl. No expert on the matter, so anxious to see the results.

Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like your red cube is hanging off a mechanical AN style attachment or NPT nipple. With the weight of the cube and the attached vertical hose, it seems it would be introducing a good amount of leveraged force on that connection to the servo. Can't say if it's a problem, but worth asking an expert, if it is an aluminum nipple. (saw it was blue, so assumed Al). I wouldn't necessarily be as concerned with a steel nipple. I know that servo get a LOT of vibration / enough to crack the 063 aluminum plates for the FAB. Given the consequences of a failure here (fuel spraying in good volume on the exhaust pipe) I would want to be certain it was safe. I was always advised that flexible fuel lines are best when vibration is at play and both terminating ends are not fixed to a common structure.

Larry

I did suspend the Red Cube from hoses, as recommended; it's hard to tell with the firesleeve in place. As for the airflow, that did concern me too. Eyeball engineering tells me it will flow to both the cylinders and the filter differently... but how much? On the original plans, the filter serves as the ramp. How much does that affect airflow to the cylinders? I'm hoping the induction will pull what it needs and the rest will go to the cylinders. Laminar flow? No. Sufficient? We'll see. Can't afford wind tunnel tests... I'm clinging to the "experimental" aspect here...
 
I did suspend the Red Cube from hoses, as recommended; it's hard to tell with the firesleeve in place. As for the airflow, that did concern me too. Eyeball engineering tells me it will flow to both the cylinders and the filter differently... but how much? On the original plans, the filter serves as the ramp. How much does that affect airflow to the cylinders? I'm hoping the induction will pull what it needs and the rest will go to the cylinders. Laminar flow? No. Sufficient? We'll see. Can't afford wind tunnel tests... I'm clinging to the "experimental" aspect here...

I applaud your zeal. Like I said, I don't know enough to say either way and hence why I am anxious to prove or disprove my initial, untrained assumption. Your experimetaton will be a learning experience for me. It seems that turbulence is a potential issue at the inlet, otherwise vans wouldn't bother with the upper cowl transition pieces.

Glad to hear the cube is properly suspended.

Larry
 
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nice work. I am anxious to see the results. I would have been concerned about the ramp being replaced with a 2" vertical wall. I would have guessed it would create a lot of turbulence there and impact airflow into that side of the cowl. No expert on the matter, so anxious to see the results.


Larry


You could play with an extension of the ramp over the filter a little.

The extension would smooth cooling air flow into the engine, and act as an air splitter between cooling and intake air.

Shape, size of extension TBD.
 
What a great photo log of the building, mod, fabrication, installation processes. Thanks for taking the time to share this with the VAF forum. I have updraft and Van's FAB filtered airbox, but 5 STAR rating. I modified mine to go from "D" shape to round for custom scoop.
 
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You could play with an extension of the ramp over the filter a little.

The extension would smooth cooling air flow into the engine, and act as an air splitter between cooling and intake air.

Shape, size of extension TBD.

I am definitely considering that, and will make a determination after first flight testing.
 
It's nice work Martin.

I did suspend the Red Cube from hoses, as recommended; it's hard to tell with the firesleeve in place.

Trust me; a fella re-thinks a lot of shop decisions at 10,000 over the rocks.

As for the airflow, that did concern me too. Eyeball engineering tells me it will flow to both the cylinders and the filter differently... but how much?

I suspect not much. Assuming good tight baffle wraps, the 8's relatively large inlet tends toward low velocity ratio. So, most of the conversion of dynamic to static pressure has already taken place before arriving at the new parts, where velocity is likely to be about half freestream velocity.
 
It's nice work Martin.



Trust me; a fella re-thinks a lot of shop decisions at 10,000 over the rocks.



I suspect not much. Assuming good tight baffle wraps, the 8's relatively large inlet tends toward low velocity ratio. So, most of the conversion of dynamic to static pressure has already taken place before arriving at the new parts, where velocity is likely to be about half freestream velocity.

That's good news... and it's always nice to get good news from you, Dan. ;)
 
That's good news... and it's always nice to get good news from you, Dan. ;)
RVaitor when it was in print, had some great articles on this induction when it first came out. The did some flight test and recorded pressure recovery. The reduction in drag from a separate lower cowl scoop is small but something and the clean look is worth it.

What is terrible is this example, high velocity air hitting e filter, not very good pressure recovery.

182P.jpg
 
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