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Worktables

Phil

Phil

Well Known Member
I can't tell you how excited I am. I'm preping my workspace and getting ready to start building. Hopefully I'll be underway by late summer.

I've read about work tables and work benches. Work benches are really for the heavy lifting, banging, vices, etc. But the work tables are for finese work and need to be perfectly flat and level.

Here are my basic questions.

Which tabletop surface is the best to remain unwarpped, durable, and level.

How do you go about leveling the table?

Any photos?

Thanks for your help!
Phil
 
Phil said:
Which tabletop surface is the best to remain unwarpped, durable, and level.
Click to expand...
I'd guess poured concrete is easy to get level and is going to stay that way ;-)

MDF isn't a bad choice for a table top - sturdy, can stand being drilled without loss of structure, normally quite flat...
 
I used 3/4 particle board top and lower shelf, over 2x4 frame, ... the table is 3.5' x 7' and on lockable casters. I slopped a coat of Deft on to seal it and prevent water-induced swelling or bubbling. It's dead flat and working great after a year and a half. I'd do the same if I built another.

Rupester
Mahomet, IL
RV-9A QB fuse underway
 
Phil -

I am also at the very beginning of my build. Tomorrow I'm going to be constructing my work tables - I'm going with a modified version of the EAA Chapter 1000 Standardized Work Table outlined here. I want mine to be 36x72 and slightly taller than theirs. I will be using 3/4" MDF for the top and 15/32" sanded plywood for the bottom shelf. I figure I can build two for around $160. I plan on modifying one of them further by "sinking" my c-frame dimpler in it to be level with the top surface and tacking down some outdoor carpet for ease of sliding skins and panels on. The other I'll leave to just plain old MDF.

Hope that helps, and best of luck on your build!

Oh, also check out Mike's page - he is the one who showed me the link to the EAA tables and his modified size.
 
I built a couple of the EAA tables but my favorite is the third one I made out of a solid core "fire door" I got at Home Depot or Lowes.

Here's a good shot of the table.

http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/rv-7/buildLog/20060322.php

It's the only one I'm taking with me on my cross country move.

The EAA table are nice because you can line them up like this for long pieces

http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/Bearhawk/buildLog/20061217.php

and then move them around to other areas of the shop to hold power tool or as general work tables when you're done with the long stuff. Also, notice the various overhangs (modification from the original plans). Super convenient for clamping things down.

If I had it to do all over again, I'd build all three all over again.
 
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I might catch a little heat for this comment, but I wouldn't spend too much time trying to get your tables perfectly level. That isn't to say you shouldn't try to build flat tables, just don't go overboard (IMHO). Assuming you are building one of the pre-punched kits, you really aren't relying on the table for alignment, you are just using at a work surface. Besides, you can level the table while it is in one part of your shop, only to find out it isn't level when you move it to another spot (floors not level).

Mikes got some nice tables, but I would make one suggestion... let the work surface overhang the edges 2-3" or so to give yourself something to clamp on to. BTW... I too used 3/4" MDF for a top.

Good luck!
051004_003.jpg
 
I agree with Brad - no need to be dead flat. Mine is 3X8 feet. Leave an overhang for clamping. I used MDF - resists moisture absorption, doesn't warp, has mass, can accept screws well as opposed to particle board. Countersunk a space for the backriveting plate with a router. Whole thing on locking rollers to move around.
 
Very nice! Could I suggest an improvement? I would orient the back rivet plate across the table instead. It will make it easier to do the skins since they won't be hanging off the table flopping around when the stiffener is lined up with the plate. Once again, otherwise very nice.
 
John's right. It work way better with the plate oriented F-B rather than L-R. The bigger skins are clumsy enough as it is, let alone with them slapping your shoetops. :D

Rupester
 
leveling

I got an idea from someone on this site a while back and made two smaller tables on castors, with shelves at just the right height so I can slap a brace between them and put my DDR2 between the two tables at the correct height. When not using hte DDR2 I can take it out, and push the tables together to make one longer table.

As for leveling, I have a garage floor with a considerable slope, so leveling is a pain... always shimming with random boards and stuff. Am trying to come up with a better solution by figuring out a way to make the castors on all my table legs height-adjustable. Not quite sure how to do this. The drawing below shows what I want to do... any ideas on how??

 
McMaster sells threaded stem casters - you could probably come up with some way to sink a coupling nut or a nut insert in the legs of your table, then just use a jam nut to lock in the height you choose.
 
Buy adjustable casters

Phil, you can just buy adjustable casters. They are machine threaded. Slightly under-drill the hole in the leg, and the threads will work just fine. The casters are significantly more expensive though, around $35 (US) each if I remember correctly. I used them for my portable work table, which is mostly a multi-purpose table. Right now, it's the base for my prints.

I built a large stationary table for primary building. It uses four removable 2'x4' sheets of 3/4" MDF for the surface. I built a channel in the middle for the C-Frame dimpler and it works like a charm. Level? Probably not 100%. Flat? Of yes, very.

I can drill into the MDF, and just pop it out to replace it when necessary. Home Depot and Lowes sells pre-cut 2'x4' MDF, so replacement is simple. I can pretty much fit a wing on this thing.

Sturdy enough to dance on.


For stuff that requires an absolutley flat surface, like flaps and ailerons, I made a temporary jig with 2x4's and MDF Sheets. The 2x4's were checked for straightness and then used to brace the MDF, which very flat, but bends too easily.

(Sorry, I don't have pictures posted. If you want photo's, PM me.)
 
Or you can chop off the legs right above the casters and reattach it with a threaded rod from Aviation Depot.

Just a thought. Use at your own risk.
 
Does MDF swell if it gets wet? I used malomine form my table tops which repels water, but unfortunately the malomine coating chips off fairly easily. I suppose you could put a coat of verithane on an MDF table?
 
medium density fiberboard

Oh ya, mdf will swell even if you spill a little coffee on it! its a sponge! As mentioned in earlier posts, just seal the top of your mdf with your favorite sealer (varathane, urethathane..I wouldn't paint it, I think you'll get better service with a clear coating of what ever..less face chipping) IMHO Dont be tempted to put on multiple coats. I think you just want to seal it not build up a mill thinkness that could chip off. Let the hardness of the mdf top take the pounding, instead of the built up urethane which could just chip away

I used a commericially available banquet table with steel frame and foldable legs. It came with a melamine top, which is taking a bit of a beating but it will survive my entire build. It's a little low but a lot of the work one can do sitting down.
 
I made MDF tops and coated them with some leftover polyurethane (Minwax). They are holding up great, even to spills.

Keep in mind that flat and level are not necessarily the same; you need a flat surface (MDF serves very well) for the flaps, ailerons, etc. but it really doesn't matter much if it is level - you could build on an incline and it wouldn't matter much.

T.
 
Hinges

prkaye said:
The drawing below shows what I want to do... any ideas on how??

Click to expand...

Phil,
You could mount standard wheels to a large hinge half and bolt the other half to the bottom of the table leg. Drill & thread the wheel-mounted half for a hex-head screw/bolt. As you turn the bolt into the other half it would open the hinge and give adjustment to that leg.

Another idea that I incorporated into a mitresaw cabinet I built would be to bolt an angle to the side of the leg and use a carriage bolt - head down - through a threaded hole in the horizontal flange to level the table. Slot the up end for a screwdriver or just jam two nuts together and use a wrench/ratchet to rotate the bolt. It would raise the wheel off the ground and prevent it from moving until you lowered it.
Just ideas, dude.
 
another data point

MDF top. Full 4x8 sheet. I have plenty of room in my shop. Yes on the overhangs. shelf underneath to store parts for current work. Also I use a smooth, spongy-rubber drawer liner material tossed on top for cushioning and nonslip. This works better than carpet, you can clean it off with the airhose or wisk broom and can be removed easily to drill into table. (carpet loves aluminum shavings). I did not use castors, I wanted mine rock solid. It could double as a dance floor.

worklog_image_popup.php
 
Work Bench

My project is done but I built a 4x8 work bench on casters for my RC projects. I built a steel frame and mounted 6 wheels on it. The frame was topped with a piece of 5/8" MDF. I then mounted base cabinets on the corners and a 4x8 piece of finished and edge banded MDF.

I'm going to mount a power strip on each end as well. Now I have two cabinets with drawers and two cabinets that have one shelf in them.

I would definitely stay away from particle board. MDF is a much better choice. If you wipe up spills immediately there won't be a problem. Particle board will swell up like a tic if you get it wet.

I'll get a couple of pictures and post.
 
Both Phil's

One of the Phil's used my design on the DRDT-2. Works good for me
and its on my web site.
If the MDF gets bad, mine is 1 year old and I have 1000 holes in it,
paint all over the place and if it gets too bad I will replace it. (NOT)

These are disposable tables for me made out of left over lumber just
had to buy the casters, paint, and MDF.
I went to a store and bought a piece of 3/8 x 4'x 1 1/2" flat iron and
use it for my backrivet plate. It cost about $9.00. Works great. Just
cut it into the table.
The -2 table is great because you can flip the -2 over while not using
it and put the long pieces on it and I use it for a paint table and other
things.
 
I built my large table once the wings kit got here. I used the wing crate for storage below the top and put the lid on it for a shelf. I put a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch plywood for a top and was planning on putting a sheet of MDF on it but never have got around to it. I am just now starting to rivet the center and forward fuselage to the aft and so far it has worked great for me.

table.jpg
 
My work table

When I started setting up my workshop, I couldn't find a place to store my table saw, so I decided to hide it. I took an old solid wood desk top and mounted some 3/4 angle to the bottom of it. Now it just sits on the table saw, and the angle keeps it from moving around, but I can lift it off easily if I need to use the saw.

FP26102006A0000W.jpg
 
My $.02

I agree with the overhang in front, but not on the sides or back I can bolt mine together to form a 2 X 10' table, a 4 X 5' table or set them in an "L". The "L" is great for smaller stuff like the emp. I used lag screws in three of the four legs of one table and on all four corners of the second so I can level nicely with just a wrench. There is little need for castors with 2 X 5' tables and they are big enough at least to build an RV-9A. I did. BTW, I used finished plywood but wouldn't if doing it again. Makes me feel bad when I drill into it. Really like the idea of the C-frame between tables. Will work on that for the next one.

Bob Kelly
 
4 inch channel

built mine with 4 inch channel and 3/4 inch plywood on top, channel faces out on three side except front which has a piece of polished 4 inch angle 4 feet long for back riveting things like AEX wedges into control surfaces.countersunk a 8"x18"X5/8" plate of steel into the work surfacefor back riveting ...stay on the plate :eek: super strong and level no matter where i put it.. i only used such heavy iron because it was left over from another project. also have a portable wing stand that i will be tossing after i paint in a couple of months. its 4 inch channel as well.
 
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I used a 3'x7' solid core wood door, added an extra hinge to the 3 already there and mounted a 2"x10" for a break for bending empenage skins. I also routed out 6"x3'x 1/4" deep place in the middle of the door for a 1/4" steel plate for back riveting. The door was mounted on 1/2" angle welded frame w/casters. It works great and is portable.
 
Just do it!

All of the comments and creative details are fine, but your workbench isn't worth wasting time over. Don't overthink this, just do it!

I built two EAA Chapter 1000 Workbenches exactly per the plans (with the exception of using coarse thread construction screws instead of woodscrews).

They have proven to be perfect for the job in every way. I wouldn't change a thing.
 
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