What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Fuel line firewall fittings

s10sakota

Well Known Member
I would be interested to see how you guys pass the fuel line through the firewall. Do you use the blue aluminum AN fittings or Steel fittings?

 
As a follow up question: if you used these, either alum or steel, what washers did you use? I didn't see any washers listed on AircraftSpruce with the fittings, and I don't really want to use cheap Home Depot washers.
 
AN960 washers

...what washers did you use?
I used steel fittings, standard AN960 flat washers, and steel AN924 nuts. One thing I would like to mention is that in order to keep the bulkhead fitting from spinning, you will need will need a backup wrench on the back side of the fitting. Be thinking ahead about how you are going to get a backup wrench on the back side while you are torquing the B-nut on the front side. Also, if you are going to install sound insulation on the aft of the firewall, that can block access. Like they say, PLAN AHEAD
 
Also, if you are going to install sound insulation on the aft of the firewall, that can block access. Like they say, PLAN AHEAD

Don't apply sound insulation to the cabin side of a firewall. Doing so creates a flame transfer system, defeating the reason for having a firewall in the first place.
 
Don't apply sound insulation to the cabin side of a firewall. Doing so creates a flame transfer system, defeating the reason for having a firewall in the first place.

+1

Thanks largely to your "foot stomping" of this issue Dan, I have spent considerable time scraping the foil and foam insulation off my Rocket (applied by the builder, not me).

I also did a burn test on the remnants and WOW! what an eye opener!

Not only did it burn readily, but it produced enough acrid smoke that I almost passed out watching it burn in the yard. Even without fire, I would almost certainly been overcome immediately in an enclosed cabin.
 
I know some will say no need and that I unnecessarily added weight but I made my doubler out of stainless. I don't want the aluminum spacers melting and the fitting becoming loose. I also plan the run stainless tubing back to the fuel filter.
 
Here's the requirement for certified airplanes:

"23.1183 Lines, fittings, and components.
(a) Except as provided in paragraph (b) of this section, each component, line, and fitting carrying flammable fluids, gas, or air in any area subject to engine fire conditions must be at least fire resistant...."

There's considerably more to it than this excerpt.

Dave
 
Flame Retardant per FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1

I also did a burn test...
That was prudent since you didn't know what the original builder used. The "Super Soundproofing" that ACS sells is flame retardant per FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. Whether that's good enough, I don't know (and hope to never find out). All I do know is that without the soundproofing, ATC was unable to reliably hear my transmissions due to the high cabin noise.
 
The "Super Soundproofing" that ACS sells is flame retardant per FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. Whether that's good enough, I don't know (and hope to never find out).

Lemme help you. It's not.

All I do know is that without the soundproofing, ATC was unable to reliably hear my transmissions due to the high cabin noise.

What were you flying?
 
See my avatar.

A Lancair 235? A 235 has a 1/4" ply firewall with a fiberfrax and stainless sheet overlay on the engine side. It may be the quietest in sport aviation.

FWIW, you can probably add sound insulation to a Lancair 235 firewall without too much risk, assuming you don't get it too close to the pass-through fittings; they are local hot spots.

A stainless sheet RV firewall is an entirely different animal.
 
Back
Top