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To Cover Work Bench With Carpet Or Not?

T

tgraytn

Member
I have a 25" x 96" Gladiator table with adjustable legs to use to build my RV-8 empennage on. I currently have it covered with carpet to prevent marring the aluminum. However, I have heard several comments stating to not use carpet because it can cause aluminum shavings to become trapped in the pile and therefore scratch the aluminum skin as it is moved across the surface. I have heard others say the opposite: cover the bench with carpet to prevent marring the aluminum skin.

I wanted to pose this question to the group in order to get your feedback.

Here is a picture of my bench:

1.JPG


Thanks!!

Tom
 
Covered mine in particleboard

Nice and flat and you can drill and Cleco into it and it's not expensive.
 
Tom,

First of all, your shop is entirely too neat!

I would not use carpeting for the reasons you expresses plus rivets, etc. will easily get lost.

I bought several of those long swimming pool type float thingies and used them for padding fuse, wings etc. when on my workbench.
 
I used a moving pad draped across the bench. Easy to get on and off depending on what I was doing, didn't trap metal shavings, easy to vacuum clean.
 
You will find yourself drilling into the table regularly (at least I did). I put a piece of MDF on top of my table for that reason, and replaced it after building the flaps which required a bunch of large holes in it. I keep pieces of carpet I can put on it when I need the protection, but can be removed.

And I remember when my shop looked like that...I was so innocent back then...

Chris
 
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I try to have the best of both worlds by using some removable carpet squares.
When I made my wing stand I got some carpet to use for the slings - since then the scraps (2 sq ft) have been used when I needed to protect something heavy (like the wing on the bench).

For everyday building though, I have the wood surface - much easier to clean up.
 
I had a particle-board surface with 1/8" Masonite sheet on top of that - when the Masonite started to get raggedy I just replaced it.

Ditch the carpet.
 
I use a Masonite sheet on top of my bench so it can be changed out when it gets too scuffed up or mutilated. I also got some scrap carpeting and cut a couple of pieces to fit the top of the bench. When I need them I can roll them onto it, then roll them back up when not needed. If I need them to stay put I'll use masking tape or some staples. I definitely would not leave the carpeting on place all the time, but it's nice to have when you need to lay a wing or something on the bench.
 
My favorite is 3/4 MDF (shimmed flat) that can be removed and replaced. I'll seal my next one so cold beverages don't swell the MDF. You'll drill 1000 holes into it, spill primer, paint, proseal and fiberglass on it during your build. After a few scratches, I kept a nice counter brush close and always swept before using.
 
I make my work benches from that white Melamine-finished particle board used for cabinets. No scratches and it works great.

Dave
 
So, I'm looking at your operatory...

and thinking, the anesthesiologist is going to want a swivel stool with a back on it. Just sayin'.

-Stormy :D

My soon-to-be-completed shop will start out like that. For about a day.
 
MFD. Keep it free of debris and you will not scratch the AL. Like previously stated, you will drill holes and cleco parts to it in the building process. Use the removable carpet pieces from time to time on completed assemblies.

Roberta:)
 
My benches are topped with a sub-layer of 1/2" plywood (glued and screwed to the structure) and a top layer of 3/4" MDF (screwed only). Then I paint the MDF with white gloss latex paint. The paint keeps liquids from damaging the surface and also acts as a reflective light source to improve all around illumination. If I need padding, I have some scrap carpet sections and clean moving pads that I can use.

The MDF can be easily removed and replaced when it gets too beat up, drilled up, cut up, and otherwise messed up.
 
Well the shop tends to start out looking like that and then you add about a thousand little parts and sub-assemblies then you can't even move around.:D

I'm just being jealous. Very nice shop setup.
 
Masonite

As Greg and others have said - masonite 1/8" thick on top of whatever you want underneath. I used 3/4" plywood. Replace the masonite when you want to. Carpet (tight weave) on top temporarily when desired.
 
tgraytn said:
I have a 25" x 96" Gladiator table with adjustable legs to use to build my RV-8 empennage on. I currently have it covered with carpet to prevent marring the aluminum. However, I have heard several comments stating to not use carpet because it can cause aluminum shavings to become trapped in the pile and therefore scratch the aluminum skin as it is moved across the surface. I have heard others say the opposite: cover the bench with carpet to prevent marring the aluminum skin.

I wanted to pose this question to the group in order to get your feedback.

Here is a picture of my bench:

1.JPG


Thanks!!

Tom
Click to expand...

Gosh, this work shop is cleaner than our living room. Nice job.
 
Bench

Plain Jane smooth plywood. When it needs it, just run a random orbital over it and it's good as new. I did use particle board to build parts with lots of holes. That got reused to make the wing stand end pieces.
The crate plywood has a nice smooth surface. You can always use it screwed down to the bench.
 
3/4-inch particle board for me! I sometimes put an old beach towel on top if I'm worried about something getting scratched.
 
I use some cheapy astroturf type carpet when moving skins or completed surfaces around the table. Thick enough that the shavings sink down but stiff enough that the parts ride on top. I also use MDF as the work surface and drill and cleco into it.
 
Carpeted

I use carpet but i vaccum every chance i get. So far no scratches .

Nice shop but it needs aluminum shavings, spent bits of spoiled angle and a whole lot of shaved rivets to be a real RV hanger! :)
 
I use cheap low-pile carpet from home depot and cut out a removable square in the middle for the back riveting plate that I can put back in when I am not using it. Prevents unwanted scratches and makes the bench look nice..

2dufcw1.jpg
 
I used carpet except to drill into. I found that the carpet threads would sometimes wrap themselves around the bit after it extended through the aluminum and it is a real pia to unwind it to remove your bit from your work. Started drilling into furniture grade partial board scraps from work.

Not to redirect this OP but if you are working on a piece like a spar that needs counter sinking, the hole in the partial board behind your freshly drilled aluminum makes a perfect guide for the end of the countersink bit in a micro countersink. Makes perfect counter sinks, no drift. If you are doing more than a few in the same piece, cleco the aluminum to the board after the first hole and all of the holes after that. You will have perfect guide holes behind every hole.

PS, submit a photo of your shop about two or three years into your build, won't be that neat!
 
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Yes, and no

OK, didn't build my RV, but lotsa other projects.....

I'm not sure any of the previous were actual homebuilders either....
i mean, when the MDF or whatever top gets worn, obviously a REAL one would
TURN IT OVER!!!! :eek:

anyhow, jus kiddin, sort of.

I like a couple different surfaces, so lots of good ideas in woodworking magazine, benches with drop centres or holes in them as others have suggested. put wheels on them, 2 with locks & swivels, make most the same height so you can gang them up for long jobs, or wheeling stuff out into the driveway when you need the room, and want to attract the neighbours!

Keep in touch with your local machinist, butcher or baker or candlestick maker, when they re-do THEIR benches, YOU get new tops....for FREE!
Run a belt-sander over them, ready to go!

oh, and spill some stuff on that floor, you can't build in those kind of pristine conditions!!!
 
Workbench

Narrow strips of camping pad material from Walmart, the pads used under sleeping bags instead of air mattress. Much less chance of parts slipping off table and does not hold metal shavings like carpet does.
 
Nobody has mentioned this yet, and I'm surprised. If you leave the blue vinyl on until the parts are riveted in place, you won't get any scratches from your workbench, whether you carpet it or not. I hope this doesn't start an argument, there are strong opinions on both sides of this issue. I offer it as something to think about. It's what I did and I have no regrets.

100_5067%20(Small).JPG
 
tgraytn said:
I have a 25" x 96" Gladiator table with adjustable legs to use to build my RV-8 empennage on. I currently have it covered with carpet to prevent marring the aluminum. However, I have heard several comments stating to not use carpet because it can cause aluminum shavings to become trapped in the pile and therefore scratch the aluminum skin as it is moved across the surface. I have heard others say the opposite: cover the bench with carpet to prevent marring the aluminum skin.

I wanted to pose this question to the group in order to get your feedback.

Here is a picture of my bench:

1.JPG


Thanks!!

Tom
Click to expand...


Looks nice Tome. Leave it carpet covered. Build another one or two with drillable surface. There is never enough workbenches in the shop. :)
 
Vlad said:
Looks nice Tome. Leave it carpet covered. Build another one or two with drillable surface. There is never enough workbenches in the shop. :)
Click to expand...

Yep, looks good. Now that carpeted, use it, if it has that maple under, don't drill through! On a couple of benches, I use a 1/4" masonite on the top and paint with shellac. It oil won't penetrate (or soften), and easier to clean. Works great on plywood too. Love the shop, nicely prepared. Need more inventory storage shelves. (Build as you go plan?)
 
Table talk

Well, I don't see a DRDT or the requisite table, so you need one more table for that. Then at least one more long one so you can lay a wing spar across them end to end. And if you build a 14 you will drill fewer holes in your nice table tops :D.

I did all MDF tops (EAA benches) with scrap carpet pieces available if needed. I think sealing or painting the tops is an excellent idea.
 
table top philosophy

Beautiful shop Tom!

I agree with most of the posts. Masonite is great and you can rout out a space for your back rivet plate when doing control surfaces, etc. Put a couple coats of clear polyurethane on it and it will last for years.

Anything you can pad it with temporarily and sweep off when you are drilling is the key. I used countermats (like you see at an auto supply store) as my padding. Easy to clean and kept parts scratch free.

Happy building!!
 
I just had a bunch of old bath towels that got laid down when needed. Easy to wash when they got dirty. Still use them out at the hangar.
 
I am constantly clamping things to the surface of my workbenches so having carpet on them might make getting a firm hold an issue. I just bought a small-ish kitchen rug from the big box retailer to lay on the table top if I need to prevent scratches. So far so good.
 
Flooring pad for workbench cover

I had some leftover materials from a flooring project, I think it was a pergo bathroom floor, and this padding went underneath it so the flooring 'floats'.

You might be able to find some of this material that is leftover scrap at your local flooring store.

I find that it provides good padding, and you can sweep away shavings with your hand that build up on its surface. It's also good on the shop floor to stand on in the wintertime so the concrete doesn't suck all the heat out of you.

50nt4k.jpg


qof78l.jpg
 
No kidding. Not sure I would even mess it up with airplane parts... I'd just wanna hang out in there... If thats your shop, you airplane is probably going to be awesome... just sayin...

SOCALFLYBOY said:
When you're not building an airplane, you can rent your shop out as a surgery center. I'm envious!
Click to expand...
 
No carpet except perhaps on the storage racks for completed, in-work items. Leave the work surfaces plain wood like the bench with the vice & grinder. If its tough wood it'll do OK. We had wood surfaces on our work benches/tables in the F-16 Armament Shop when I was in Korea during my USAF time. Those benches got beat up with bomb racks, missile launchers, gun systems and all kinds of tools & equipment and kept on going strong. Yes, they'll get chipped, scratched, discolored and beat up; but they're fairly easy to clean (sweep/vacuum/etc...) and pretty low maintenance, do just fine.

Awesome shop though. Clean and well lit; gotta like it!
 
OK, that's not a shop. No scrap Van's parts, no dropped rivets, no rivet tape stuck everywhere (how many times have I gone out with this stuck to my shoe?) Toss an Aircraft Spruce box in the corner, and you might be legit ;-)

I cut a 2 x 4 chunk of carpet (left over from work) that I can flip on or off the bench when I need. I have two EAA 100 benches and two EAA 100 sized bench toppers. Below the carpet, we have 3/4" MDF, which I just flipped at 900 hours into the build. Works great; no scratches.
 
bruceh said:
I just had a bunch of old bath towels that got laid down when needed. Easy to wash when they got dirty. Still use them out at the hangar.
Click to expand...
Me too. Now I just have to replace the towels I pirated from the bathroom!

If you're going to paint your plane, don't sweat the small scratches, as they will disappear under prep work and the first coat of primer. Polishing? Take every precaution necessary. I'm going the former route, so it was nice to not obsess about every little scratch.
 
When my tool kit came, I pirated bowls from the kitchen to put my Clecos in. I doubled down on my poor decision making by writing #30 and #40 with a Sharpie. When I repatriated them back to the kitchen, later on I ate some cereal out of the $40 bowl.
 
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