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Looking for solution (Stick Contacts Panel)

Reflex

Well Known Member
As seen in the picture below, my Tosten grip contacts my back-up Alt. toggle. After spending some time searching the site, I've found quite a bit of data, but I haven't really found anything definitive on how to solve this problem.

Here's where I am:

  • I've cutoff the maximum amount of the top portion of the stick.
  • I can cut off the bottom but am concerned about the overall length. I don't want the stick so short that it causes issues. Does anybody know the recommended length of a -14 stick?
  • I could try to bend but that would mean that the stick would end up closer to me. I'm assuming vans has engineered the ergonomics of the stick to maximize comfort, safety, and give proper throw.
  • Does Tosten make a grip that would solve the problem? Hate to spend the money, but this is THE interface point.
  • Looks like I need about 1/4"

Looking for suggestions. Picture below:



Thanks for looking,

Fred
 
You might not like this (but you HAVE to fix this problem….) - you can change those switches to standard toggles instead of lever locks. Or move the switches.

These are the kinds of things that happen when we are designing our own stuff - you discover something at the very end of the process that you didn’t anticipate. Beehive me - I’ve been there! Frustrating, but comes with the territory. Change and move on….
 
Before doing anything drastic, wait until the controls are all set. A couple of us had interference with the panel, but it resolved itself when everything was installed. You can always replace those long toggle switches later.
 
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I'm in the same scenario (14, Tosten grip, long throw switches). I've been advised to relax till the elevator is attached and rigged, and don't redesign anything till then when the stops are set, as the problem might not be a problem at that point.
 
I'm with Paul on this one. With the regular toggle, you can add shuttle switch protectors, as you will eventually clip your shoe on them when you are getting into the aircraft. I have them on every switch on the panel that doesn't have a missile switch protector, as they provide essentially the same function as a locking toggle (assuming the control throw is still and issue after rigging). If that still doesn't provide enough clearance, can you relocate the switch elsewhere on the panel? There are blanks that can be easily added to fill the hole. I would not cut the stick any shorter. I've flown in a couple of aircraft lately that have sticks too short and they frankly suck. It doesn't give you the sensitivity of motion required to fly these aircraft accurately. I run the same Tosten Military grips (as they are by far the best grip on the market) in my -7 and I can totally see how the rest at the bottom of the grip would annoy the living daylights out of you ever time it jabs into your leg when doing a full deflection maneuver. You'll quickly get over having a switch in a different location. Having a control stick too short will drive you nuts for the rest of the life of the aircraft.

Tom.
 
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Call Tosten, theycan send you some inserts for the stick with an angled hole to put the grip in… We also have toggle switches (and would never replace them with the ugly plastic switches ;)) and the slight angle of the grip was enough to clear the switches!

Also on the left toggle switch you can still gain a bit when turning the nut out as far as possible and tighten the other nut behind the panel. By doing this you lower the whole switch „into the panel“
 
You said that you can’t go any lower on your stick grip. Is that because of the curve in the RV14 stick? If so, couldn’t you take a smalll dremel sanding drum and grind out a notch in the bottom of the grip to allow it to sit lower? Should be able to accommodate the 1/4” you need. You should just need to grind out the front portion at the bottom of the grip because of the forward curvature of the stick in that area, to give you what you need.
 
Probably can be easily solved…

…by about one turn of the rod end bearing on the forward elevator push rod below the flap motor housing.
 
Call Tosten, they can send you some inserts for the stick with an angled hole to put the grip in… the slight angle of the grip was enough to clear the switches!

I did the above suggestion as "Step 1" in my RV10. Still had an issue with my flap switch. Adjusted rod ends bearings as "Step 2". But, with specs on elevator angles, I could never get the full range of motion needed without still hitting the switch. Finally broke down and bought this $150 fix from Harbor Freight. Took very little bending and worked great.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html?_br_psugg_q=pipe+bender

Works great now!!! Full elevator movement, no switches hit with full down. Hated to spend $150 for a single use fix, but didn't feel comfortable bending the tube any other way.
 
Same problem on my 9A

The previous owner (not builder) of my RV-9A had an FBO install Infinity Aerospace military style grips on the control sticks. I’m ashamed to say I didn’t realize the pilot’s stick was hitting the control panel switches until I was maneuvering around the cockpit floor and pushing the stick full forward to get it out of the way. Reading the posts here I now realize that the FBO added a much longer grip to the existing stick and failed to check the clearance. I theorized that I would cut the tops off until I read here that there is a minimum length. I have the original construction manual but cannot find any reference to the control stick length. Can someone tell me what that length is or where I can locate the specification?
 
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