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Instrument Panel support

L

lr172

Well Known Member
I am near starting my panel. I now have a Dynon D100 and D120. I already pulled the left support web (F-645)for the D100 and will now need to pull the right one for the D120. For the left, I created a small web (horizontal) that will support the top and an angle to support the bottom of the panel.

Will I be ok with this arrangement for both supports? I can't seem to find a configuration that will allow both original webs to remain.

Thanks,

Larry
 
I built a -6A with tip-up, and D100/D120. I moved the original two ribs that go between the panel and sub panel outboard of the Dynons and added two more (ordered from Van's) inboard of the units. I checked with Van's and they were cool with that arrangement. Hope that helps...send me a private message if you need more information (I don't have pictures available here at work, but I can send you some if you want).

Jim Bower

RV-6A N143DJ
 
I moved mine as needed. Ended up with 3 instead of 2 on the first panel just because I wanted more support. Reduced that back to 2 on the redo of the panel as I found 3 to be unnecessary.

I cut em off flush with the subpanel. Added a piece of angle to the one I cuttoff and moved it where I wanted it. Also ordered an extra from Van's and cut it and bent a new flange on it and mounted it where I wanted it.

This is a common thing to do. Cut em, chop em, make em work for your needs.

Here is mine when I had the D100 and D120 stacked in front of the pilot. The notch in the left most one was for making room to add the Gemini to the old panel.

IMG_4851.JPG


Stripped clean..

IMG_4866.JPG


Here you can see what I ended up with on the G3X panel and one of the ribs with the angle riveted to it:

IMG_4949.JPG
 
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I am wondering if these ribs are still needed in an all glass panel with a center radio stack.

My center radio stack is mounted to the panel and sub panel and forms a substantial support structure link between the 2 panels. I have 2 10" Dynons on the outer sides of the panel, but nothing else.

I think the ribs were a good idea in the old six pack panels with long, heavy gauges that were not supported in the back.

I emailed Van's and they said they were aware of people leaving the ribs out but had not done any structural engineering and had no opinion.

I am leaving mine out.

Any thoughts?
 
If you have a tipper, you may want em just so you can pull and put a little weight on the rim of the panel when getting in and out. Your passengers will do this regardless of what you tell them.

I had 3 and the radio stack on the first panel but only have 2 and the stack on the second one.

The panel is nicely secured but it will still move a little when pulling on it.

I would not want to totally eliminate the ribs.
 
What Brian said...

On the 6 the F645 have flanges already formed and you can slide them left, right, up, down and easy to install. I like the solid feel of the panel with all 4 installed. I have a center stack and 2 Skyview 10s. The outer two F645 panel screws are covered by the skyview on each side.
 
Taildrgr said:
I am leaving mine out.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

We did a full panel modularization earlier this year on our -6 tipper, and I was definitely not happy with the amount of movement in the panel without the ribs - We modified and moved them so that the panel would be supported, and it is solid as a rock. I wouldn't' go without them - but that's me.
 
Ironflight said:
We did a full panel modularization earlier this year on our -6 tipper, and I was definitely not happy with the amount of movement in the panel without the ribs - We modified and moved them so that the panel would be supported, and it is solid as a rock. I wouldn't' go without them - but that's me.
Click to expand...

As Paul said, the tipper panel is loose without full ribs.

I kept the lower 1 inch or so of the rib on one side, and just added a support rod near the top of the panel to replace the upper missing portion of the rib.

IIRC, I used a thick 1/4 alum tube tapped at each end for #8 screws, and a stiffening angle riveted on the fwd. side of the sub panel where the tube attached.
 
az_gila said:
I kept the lower 1 inch or so of the ribs Paul said, the tipper panel is loose without full ribs. on one side, and just added a support rod near the top of the panel to replace the upper missing portion of the rib.
Click to expand...

Did this work well or did you feel that is was still somewhat less effective than the full ribs? What you have outlined is similar to what I was planning, but was afraid it may not be enough.

I thought of moving the ribs, but felt that if they weren't tied to the forward ribs that the support wouldn't be there, as the sub-panel doesn't seem to have a lot of support once you move away from the forward ribs.

Larry
 
Sub panel gets fairly stiff....

lr172 said:
...
I thought of moving the ribs, but felt that if they weren't tied to the forward ribs that the support wouldn't be there, as the sub-panel doesn't seem to have a lot of support once you move away from the forward ribs.

Larry
Click to expand...

You maybe don't have your top forward skin attached yet? The sub panel is solid. Those F645s work real well offset. As Gil said, you can adapt other methods to firm up the panel, but the F645s worked real well for me - one on each side of the center stack, and one on the outside edge of each 10 inch skyview. I did not put any lightening holes in the two outer ones and that gives me more attach options for other things.:D
 
lr172 said:
Did this work well or did you feel that is was still somewhat less effective than the full ribs? What you have outlined is similar to what I was planning, but was afraid it may not be enough.

I thought of moving the ribs, but felt that if they weren't tied to the forward ribs that the support wouldn't be there, as the sub-panel doesn't seem to have a lot of support once you move away from the forward ribs.

Larry
Click to expand...

As the others have said, it's pretty stiff.

I just added a short vertical piece of 0.020 stiffener angle I had around as an additional brace on the sub-panel (belt and braces..:)..)

I also think the -6 sub panel might be floppier than the later models. It also wasn't very flat coming out of the box.
 
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