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Van's engine discount Oshkosh 2012

Subwaybob

Well Known Member
Does anyone know the discount that is going to be offered on Van's engines (Lycoming) at Osh this year?

I WAS going to buy the ECI Titan but the return fuel line, etc, etc have me miffed as I am now refusing taking my finished fuel tank apart. (partially) I think it was 1K at S&F but Sterling at Van's said something like $2500. HOWEVER he was UNSURE so don't quote him as I just did!!

I am already buying the prop at Van's so thats a grand off. If I can get another 2K... Well that will get me one Vlad trip!!

(P.S. this is not an engine choice question, it's a discount question. Thanks)
 
Does anyone know the discount that is going to be offered on Van's engines (Lycoming) at Osh this year?

I WAS going to buy the ECI Titan but the return fuel line, etc, etc have me miffed as I am now refusing taking my finished fuel tank apart. (partially) I think it was 1K at S&F but Sterling at Van's said something like $2500. HOWEVER he was UNSURE so don't quote him as I just did!!

I am already buying the prop at Van's so thats a grand off. If I can get another 2K... Well that will get me one Vlad trip!!

(P.S. this is not an engine choice question, it's a discount question. Thanks)
Bob,
I am afraid I cannot comment on the discount but I was intrigued by your comment about the return fuel lines for your fuel tanks. I am not sure why you have been told you would have to take apart your finished fuel tank to install return fuel lines. I know that the newer ECi fuel return lines instructions call for you to add a fitting to the tank end plate for the return. This would be a very simple retrofit for an existing fuel tank that would only entail inserting a bulkhead fitting on that end plate.

I have the ECi return lines that return to the outboard end of the tank. I built these when originally constructing the tanks from older ECi instructions prior to the end plate instructions. Having built my return line this way I know that installing a return line fitting on the end plate would be a simple task that would not be difficult on an existing fuel tank at all.

Anyway, just a comment to say it really would not be very difficult to install a return fuel line on an existing fuel tank at all.
 
Yes but...

Yes it is simple in the simplest form. However, I already have tank sealant on EVERYTHING as instructed by vans. I do NOT want to take that plate off re-drill it clean it and have to re-seal it. I'm a little weary of messing with the fuel tank. So yes it's easy, but beyond the scope of my happiness in building :) I have already redone so many things, this one I can just change and be just as happy. Thanks though!!!!
 
Bob, installing a return line fitting is really very simple.

I removed the fuel sender, not the whole cover plate.

I drilled a hole above the cover plate for a bulkhead fitting, and used a piece of electrical wire with a knot in it to insert the fitting into the tank. The wire is long enough to have the knot towards the middle, and a long enough tail that it stays outside the tank. The fitting was threaded over the wire, with the knot at the back, the wire was worked into place through the fuel sender hole, and back out the new hole for the fitting. I then pulled the fitting into place with the wire, and after installing the nut, pulled the tail of the wire back out the sender hole.

Took maybe 15 minutes total.
 
Bob,
I ordered my Lycoming engine/MT prop from Van's on one of the last days of the Sun-n-fun promotion. I ordered the YIO360-M1B for 27,200. With the prop order, it was 26,200. I believe that 27,200 was about 1500 off the normal Van's price, so it was a substantial discount. I almost ordered a Mattituck, but they had a large price increase this spring and then...well, you probably know:(.

I am expecting the engine in early August. Another RV-7 builder in my small town did the exact same with the SNF promo. Seems that the SNF and Airventure discount have been about 500 off historically, but it was 1500 at SNF. Then add the prop discount of 1000. Hopefully the same for you at Airventure! Back to my Canopy work!!


Cheers
Chad
 
Discount on Prop, Lycoming

I took advantage of the prop and engine deal at AirVenture. It was $1000 for buying the prop and engine and as I remember, an other $1000-1500 discount
as it included free shipping.

I don't have a return line on my IO-360 from Van's and never have trouble starting the plane. I have the 180 hp fuel injected model.

A great deal on a brand new engine and prop.

S S Anderson
RV-7A 270 hours
 
Yes it is simple in the simplest form. However, I already have tank sealant on EVERYTHING as instructed by vans. I do NOT want to take that plate off re-drill it clean it and have to re-seal it. I'm a little weary of messing with the fuel tank. So yes it's easy, but beyond the scope of my happiness in building :) I have already redone so many things, this one I can just change and be just as happy. Thanks though!!!!
1st off, good luck with your engine purchase. I hope you are able to find what you want at the price you want.

I would like to take a moment to comment further on your comment(s) above concerning your fuel tank construction though. I certainly understand your desire to not have to deal with the fuel tank further if you do not have to. But one thing you have said merits some discussion. You stated above:
I do NOT want to take that plate off re-drill it clean it and have to re-seal it.
This is somewhat confusing to me. First, I am not sure what you mean by re-drilling it. Second, If you use proseal only on one side of the cork gasket for that plate (and might I suggest sealing it to the plate side and not the tank side) you can easily remove the screws to the plate, remove the plate, do whatever needs doing, screw the plate back onto the tank and have it seal just fine; all while the tank is still on the wing.

This plate is designed and should be installed with the idea that it WILL BE removed in the future. If you have not installed it in such a manner that you cannot conveniently remove it, well, I am afraid you might find some frustrations in the future when you find yourself having to deal with it. I hope you never have to remove that end plate but I would not rely on that hope as the truth.

Speaking from first hand experience, In the past two years since I have been flying my airplane I have had both the left and right fuel tanks off of the airplane and sitting on my work bench no less than two times for each tank. Further, I have had to remove the access plate while the tank was still on the wing on one other occasion. If I did not seal that end plate the way I described above and did not use hex head screws in place of the Philips head screws, I would have been screaming bloody murder every time I had to deal with the removal of that plate.

My apologies to you Bob and to everyone reading for the minor diversion from the original intent of this thread but I thought it valuable to briefly discuss this particular issue. Again, Bob I hope nothing but the best on your build. Good Luck.
 
The return line is only "required" if you get the ECI with the ECI fuel injection system. You can buy the ECI engine with the Silver Hawk or Airflow Perfomance systems which does not require a return line.
 
Bob, installing a return line fitting is really very simple.

I removed the fuel sender, not the whole cover plate.

Took maybe 15 minutes total.

Thanks Mike but the sender unit ALSO has the pro-seal on it as instructed by Vans. I'm getting a lot of this. Did I read the directions wrong? The directions from Van said in no uncertain terms to NOT use the rubber gasket on the sending unit and pro-seal it just like the cover plate. I agree that it simple it the thing is not locked up tighter than your 15 year old daughter but I have the seal on everything. I COULD do this just a matter if I want to scrape, etc, etc... Thank you for the info though!



1st off, good luck with your engine purchase. I hope you are able to find what you want at the price you want.

I would like to take a moment to comment further on your comment(s) above concerning your fuel tank construction though. I certainly understand your desire to not have to deal with the fuel tank further if you do not have to. But one thing you have said merits some discussion. You stated above:
This is somewhat confusing to me. First, I am not sure what you mean by re-drilling it. Second, If you use pro seal only on one side of the cork gasket for that plate (and might I suggest sealing it to the plate side and not the tank side) you can easily remove the screws to the plate, remove the plate, do whatever needs doing, screw the plate back onto the tank and have it seal just fine; all while the tank is still on the wing.

This plate is designed and should be installed with the idea that it WILL BE removed in the future. If you have not installed it in such a manner that you cannot conveniently remove it, well, I am afraid you might find some frustrations in the future when you find yourself having to deal with it. I hope you never have to remove that end plate but I would not rely on that hope as the truth.

Speaking from first hand experience, In the past two years since I have been flying my airplane I have had both the left and right fuel tanks off of the airplane and sitting on my work bench no less than two times for each tank. Further, I have had to remove the access plate while the tank was still on the wing on one other occasion. If I did not seal that end plate the way I described above and did not use hex head screws in place of the Philips head screws, I would have been screaming bloody murder every time I had to deal with the removal of that plate.

My apologies to you Bob and to everyone reading for the minor diversion from the original intent of this thread but I thought it valuable to briefly discuss this particular issue. Again, Bob I hope nothing but the best on your build. Good Luck.

Steve,

When I say drill it, I mean you have to make a place for the AN fitting on the removable plate as suggested by ECI. Van suggested pro seal on both sides of the cork gasket. I can say that if I have to remove my tanks NO LESS than 2 times ever 24 months I may just have to shoot myself! Or at least threaten myself very harshly with some sort of stick or something!


Bob,
I ordered my Lycoming engine/MT prop from Van's on one of the last days of the Sun-n-fun promotion. I ordered the YIO360-M1B for 27,200. With the prop order, it was 26,200. I believe that 27,200 was about 1500 off the normal Van's price, so it was a substantial discount. I almost ordered a Mattituck, but they had a large price increase this spring and then...well, you probably know:(.

I am expecting the engine in early August. Another RV-7 builder in my small town did the exact same with the SNF promo. Seems that the SNF and Airventure discount have been about 500 off historically, but it was 1500 at SNF. Then add the prop discount of 1000. Hopefully the same for you at Airventure! Back to my Canopy work!!


Cheers
Chad

Chad, Hesty, whew..... Thank you for the info!

Everyone else I very much appreciate your advice as this is why I am on here. Prob going with the Exp Lycoming from Van if it's a pretty good deal. Thanks again!!
 
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