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Tip: How to destroy a Cleco

A

Aero_Octaveus

Well Known Member
I have found a good way to destroy a cleco. Use 3m 2216 structural epoxy with a cleco.
IMG_0283.JPG

The best part is that from the outside....it looks fine. But it's not inside!!!!:D:D
 
Been there, done that.

Keep a can of car wax handy. Engage the cleco with the pliers, extend it fully, wipe off the excess, put the cleco in the hole. The cleco will be a bit stiff when you first release it, but then the adhesive separates and the cleco is good as new.

Thanks, Bob K.
 
I am guessing that it helps hold the pieces in alignment so the rivet sits straight and centered thus making it much easier to set the rivet.
 
Liquid Shim

3M 2216 can be used as a liquid shim. My gap in this area is less than 0.020" so rather than fabricate aluminum shims I opted for liquid shims. There are specific products for just this application. I have started using 3M 2216 in various areas (ends of stiffeners) as opposed to 3145 RTV as in my opinion it provides similar damping effects as the rtv, its just a heck of a lot stronger.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1000478O/liquid-shim-ec-7272-ba-literature.pdf

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=6750
 
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Chapstik

Chapstik works great as a non bonding agent. Spread it around with a finger and you're good to go. We've all done similar things!!!
 
Ok. I don't get it. You need a shim to fill the gap. Easy. However, as you are using the product, you are filling the gap with the liquid shim, then compressing it with the Cleco. It will then be glued into place, effectively, without a shim as the liquid will squish out.

Shouldn't you be jigging the part in alignment, filling the gap with the liquid shim, allowing it to cure, then drilling and riveting?

I love this product and have several applications I want to try it on. So, if I am not understanding what is going on here, help me.....
 
Well, its not exactly watery in its consistency. Especially when you near the end of the 90min of its workability time. Its quite thick. And when dealing with thin gaps it doesn't all squeeze out.

For example....There's a reason why the manual says not to put too much proseal on the back of the tank ribs when it comes time to attach the tank baffle and its not because the clecos will squeeze out all that proseal. The proseal can build up too much thickness and make tank installation difficult. (See top of the page 7-8 of the manual)
 
Thanks Garet. Yes, I built my tanks and remember that well.
I want to try the product, but it just doesn't seem very precise if we are relying on its viscosity to make the correct thickness of shim based on some unknown clamping force. That would be "magic". Probably just fine as you are using it. My application is going to take a bit more precision so I guess I will just have to jig the part, inject the liquid shim until it cures to a point, then finish the process.
Sorry for the thread drift and thanks.
I too have glued a few Cleko's into uselessness.
 
I have put a scant drop of air tool oil on the end of a cleco, operated it a few times and have found that epoxy didn't stick. But I'm using the thickened version of G-flex, not 2216.

Dave
 
On clecos stuck with prosealed parts I used a soldering gun on the clecos shaft (barrel raised) - made them easy to withdraw. Proseal might be easier than epoxy to do this on but might be worth a try.
 
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