Touch-up painting - Rustoleum woes, need suggestions

I finally got around to working on touching up the paint on the interior side rails of my 7A Slider. My original paint wasn't that great, so I sanded it all off so I could start with bare metal.

If you want to skip the story, my question is: What's a good rattle can Interior paint that is NOT Rustoleum?

Here's the story:
I primed the bare metal with a self etching primer and top coated it with rattle can Rustoleum because it is a good color match for the rest of the interior. The first coat went on fine except for a few sags and a few areas that needed a second coat. The instruction say "re-coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours". Due to the sags, I did not want to re-coat right away.

I went back the next day and sanded the 1st coat. Rather than waiting the full 48 hours, I re-coated the Left side rail .... Big mistake, the paint wrinkled very badly and looked awful . I guess they were serious about waiting 48 hours.

So I go back today, 48 hours after the re-coat (72 hours after the 1st coat) and re-coated the Right side. Once again the paint wrinkled I then proceeded to remove most of the paint on both sides using MEK and Paint Thinner. I'll finish removing the remainder tomorrow.

I really, really don't want to start again using Rustoleum. Any suggestions on another brand of rattle can paint?

Buddy of mine recommends this.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Indoor-Outdoor-Pewter-Enamel/dp/B002KIXNLI

I had a very similar experience - tested Rustolum on some scrap part and was like "wow - this stuff is <censored> how do they sell this?" Then I tried the Krylon stuff and I agree - it is pretty good and low hassle.

Don't use valspar!

Rick,

I too had wrinkle issues when I used valspar.

I really liked the color and 99% or my interior went on great!

But a couple spots just kept on doing what you said happened to your interior.

I pushed through since I was so close to finishing the inside paint.

If you continue and try it again you have to be VERY patient and barely "dust" the area and if you think you want to lay on another swipe...DON'T! Wait 30 -60 min and repeat. Again, barely use any paint.

Bottom line....I feel you! So close....you know what they say!

"wrinkles happen"

Spray Paint

Rick, interesting observation about Rust-oleum spray paint.. I have used many paints that have been mentioned. The best spray paint I have ever used is Rust-oleum "Professional" High Performance Enamel, Light Machine Gray, #7581. Used for my interior.. med. gloss hard as a rock when dry.. Light first coat... 30 min. later, heavy wet coat, lay panels flat is possible.
Mark C.
RV9A, working on panel

Mark C. said:

Rick, interesting observation about Rust-oleum spray paint.. I have used many paints that have been mentioned. The best spray paint I have ever used is Rust-oleum "Professional" High Performance Enamel, Light Machine Gray, #7581. Used for my interior.. med. gloss hard as a rock when dry.. Light first coat... 30 min. later, heavy wet coat, lay panels flat is possible.
Mark C.
RV9A, working on panel

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That's exactly what I have used - third plane now. Is it as good as a factory-applied automotive paint? Nope...I don't have a big enough oven. But I haven't had the wrinkling problem's - gotta be some sort of chemistry issue. I hate chemistry...

Rustoleum is fantastic in my experience. I too used the professional variety but have also used some the regular Rustoleum. Both equally good. Sounds like a surface preparation issue.

Maybe you need to give the primer some negative credit too.

This past spring, I repainted my truck using Rustoleum Pro using two quarts of paint ($8ea). I was very pleased with outcome. This is second time I've repainted this truck. First time used expensive automotive paint. The paint job came out better this time around. So far, has held up excellent. FWIW.

Probably not what you want to read, but I am using Rustoleum as well. Just clean the surface with alcohol, let it dry for a few minutes. If possible warm up the piece a bit (when ambient temperatures are low) lay the piece flat and just use one layer. Final result is neat and tough.

Ironflight said:

That's exactly what I have used - third plane now. Is it as good as a factory-applied automotive paint? Nope...I don't have a big enough oven. But I haven't had the wrinkling problem's - gotta be some sort of chemistry issue. I hate chemistry...

Click to expand...

For those that used the Rustoleum, did you use the alumnium primer (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=523) first, or just spray onto the bare metal? Also how many spray cans did it take (or did you buy bulk and use a spray gun)?

rjt194 said:

For those that used the Rustoleum, did you use the alumnium primer (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=523) first, or just spray onto the bare metal? Also how many spray cans did it take (or did you buy bulk and use a spray gun)?

Click to expand...

I hav eused both the standard primer that Rustoleum sells, and more recently, Duplicolor self-etching primer. I like the Duplicolor better - seems to give a better bond.

I buy a couple of cans whenever I need it - probably not more than half a dozen for a single plane.

Paul

I know you guys like the nice smooth finish on metal but I've used Rusto's Stone finish on my rough composite interior and love it. Easy to touch up, easy to redo, etc.

This has to be a prep problem? Will be interesting to hear the solution.

Ironflight said:

I hav eused both the standard primer that Rustoleum sells, and more recently, Duplicolor self-etching primer. I like the Duplicolor better - seems to give a better bond.

I buy a couple of cans whenever I need it - probably not more than half a dozen for a single plane.

Paul

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info